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I haven't had the need to flare fuel or tranny lines, but I found an inline double flare tool that works like a champ for brake lines. The old style flare tool (the bar, with screw clamps at each end) had problems gripping the tube, so I researched and found this inline tool: OEM 24364. If you want a single tool to do a wide range of tubing this is not it, but its good for brakes.
Thanks....it was only $11 on Amazon, albeit shipping was $8. Still cheaper than ebay or summit. So good little tool to have and ordered.
Removed all brake lines today...well mostly. How do you get the little distribution block off the rear axle? And in addition to the hard lines to each rear wheel which I could remove, how does the larger line to the abs unit come off if I can't get the block off the axle? It doesn't appear to be a flared line. And finally what's that rubber hose off the top of the distribution block? Mine goes nowhere and is plugged with a green cap.
Last edited by robertmee; Mar 16, 2016 at 05:30 PM.
Well, guess I'll be rebuilding the drums too....One shoe set had disintegrated inside the drum and locked everything up...always wonder why the rear wheel wouldn't spin. Had to sledge hammer the drum off. Drums are pretty rusted anyway, and by the time I sand blast them and paint them, I can buy $20 ones from Rock Auto.
So, new drums, new spring kits and pads....Anything else I should go ahead and change while I'm taking this apart? Anyone change their axle bearings
Unless you're 10,000% positive the axles are in perfect shape, I'd get the "Axle Repair" bearings with the seals - they ride just enough further out that any wear of the factory install will be missed, and it'll be on new metal.
So, new drums, new spring kits and pads....Anything else I should go ahead and change while I'm taking this apart? Anyone change their axle bearings
Wheel bearings, axle seals, and axle bearings.
Unless you're 10,000% positive the axles are in perfect shape, I'd get the "Axle Repair" bearings with the seals - they ride just enough further out that any wear of the factory install will be missed, and it'll be on new metal.
RwP
Ditto on the axle seals, and axle bearings. I had the same issue with my rear brakes having rusted and locked up. I ended up replacing the axle seals and bearings too, and using the repair bearings that Ralph recommended. Since I was pulling the axles I replaced the diff fluid with synthetic gear oil and installed a strong magnet on the cover plate.
My parking brakes were frozen up and non-operative so I had to replace the rear parking brake cables. Some previous owner had disabled the parking brakes by leaving out the levers (in the drums), so I had to find a set of those at the JY.
I then put in new wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, etc. That turned out to be just the beginning. I had already replaced all the lines, and before I was done I replaced the front brake hoses, the front brakes, the master cylinder, and the vacuum booster. In my case everything had deteriorated so bad from sitting up that it seemed wiser, for safety, just to redo everything that looked suspect. My drums were in decent shape so I cleaned and re-used them. The only other brake component I haven't replaced is the combination valve just after the master cylinder. It seems to be working fine, and stays dry.
That hose you mentioned, coming off the brake fitting on the rear axle; I believe that's the vent for the diff. The fitting itself should come off by removing a bolt that goes thru it, if I remember correctly. I'm not sure which line you're referring to on the rear hydraulic ABS unit. There should be an "in" line, and an "out" line, one of which has a larger brake line nut than the other. I know one of them, maybe both, have what looks like an adapter that the brake line nut(s) screw into. Its not an inverted flare adapter though, it actually seals to the hydraulic unit with a rubber O-Ring.
Last edited by ragged89; Mar 17, 2016 at 12:08 AM.
Ditto on the axle seals, and axle bearings. I had the same issue with my rear brakes having rusted and locked up. I ended up replacing the axle seals and bearings too, and using the repair bearings that Ralph recommended. Since I was pulling the axles I replaced the diff fluid with synthetic gear oil and installed a strong magnet on the cover plate.
My parking brakes were frozen up and non-operative so I had to replace the rear parking brake cables. Some previous owner had disabled the parking brakes by leaving out the levers (in the drums), so I had to find a set of those at the JY.
I then put in new wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, etc. That turned out to be just the beginning. I had already replaced all the lines, and before I was done I replaced the front brake hoses, the front brakes, the master cylinder, and the vacuum booster. In my case everything had deteriorated so bad from sitting up that it seemed wiser, for safety, just to redo everything that looked suspect. My drums were in decent shape so I cleaned and re-used them. The only other brake component I haven't replaced is the combination valve just after the master cylinder. It seems to be working fine, and stays dry.
That hose you mentioned, coming off the brake fitting on the rear axle; I believe that's the vent for the diff. The fitting itself should come off by removing a bolt that goes thru it, if I remember correctly. I'm not sure which line you're referring to on the rear hydraulic ABS unit. There should be an "in" line, and an "out" line, one of which has a larger brake line nut than the other. I know one of them, maybe both, have what looks like an adapter that the brake line nut(s) screw into. Its not an inverted flare adapter though, it actually seals to the hydraulic unit with a rubber O-Ring.
I'll try to be clearer....yes one line in and one line out on the abs unit...the hard out line connects to a soft line that connects to the distribution block. But I don't see how the soft line hose end can be removed from the block...it's not a flare or screw in...it looks like a brass round end that goes inside the block. The other hose does look like a vent hose...but it comes out of that brake distribution block and goes nowhere...it was just laying on the axel with a plug in the end. It does look like it could reach the differential...are you saying it should be connected on both ends...one at the brake block and one at the diff? That seems odd. And I don't see any bolt through the block from the top because that's where that hose is...on top.
It's a through vent - to vent the diff vapors from the axle.
It unscrews, and the block then unscrews, and you can look through the block there.
If you've ever seen pictures of a tree growing up around a chair or bike, well, it's like that *grins* Two completely separate functions in one unit.
RwP
Perfect Ralph....
Between you, Ragged and RobertMc I'd be pulling my hair out. Thanks for the help, and thanks in advance for the continued help I'm going to need
Just filled out Rock Auto part list for all brake parts, hoses, hubs, drums, wheel bearings, axle bearings and seals. Getting new clips and bleeders too.
If it helps, here's a picture of the terminal block at the end of that rear brake hose. It's a new one I bought a while back.
The hole through the block isn't threaded, the vent fitting just secures the block to the diff/axle housing. The side of the block you can't see actually has a wide, shallow groove machined into it, to center it on the axle housing.
Last edited by ragged89; Mar 17, 2016 at 12:15 PM.
