volaredon, Brian,

Thanks for the info. I have a dremel, so I went to home depot and picked up a cutting wheel. I did what you guys suggested, I cut the inner racer all the way thru, there is a threaded part of the spindle that has sort of a track, this track allowed me to cut thru.. Now half a side of the racer moves freely, the other side is still stuck. The racer is still complete, one side stuck, the other isn't, sort of like a circle clip. I sprayed some pb blaster, will go and get me a bigger chisel and will pound the side of the racer that is still stuck.

I am taking a quick break, let the pb blaster work for a bit then I'll try hitting the side that is stuck with a chisel.

Thank you guys for the help, and yes, I rather not replace the spindle if I don't have to. Will pick up some emory cloth while I am at it...will keep you posted.

 

a spindle change isn't that bad of a job; and 2 good things about that setup for bearings/races/seals 1) they are regresable which is something that should be done occasionally
and 2) if they do need replaced much cheaper than a hub assembly. just had to pay $170 for a hub for my Durango; yes there was a $117 option but it was Made in china....

just gotta take a long flat punch and knock the outer races out of the rotor hub and the new ones back in... they have a taper to them that coincides with the bearing's taper just don't put them in "inside out" or you wont get the bearings in

 

I was able to remove the inner race stuck to the spindle. After soaking it in pb blaster and hitting it with a chisel and a 4 lb hammer in a way that I would make it rotate, it broke loose. So the way to cut the race is right were the groove is on the threaded part of the spindle.This allowed me to cut right thru it.

I am going to attempt to smooth the spindle to install new bearings, the plan is to replace the spindle once I am able to get a good one.

The outer race is still stuck to the rotor, but I'll do what you suggested volaredon and try getting that out with a long punch.

I see what you mean about the bearings being tapered. I'll make sure they go in the right way.

Thanks again for the help.

Brian, if you ever need a Dremel tool with a cutting disc, I got one, those things cut thru the race like if it was butter.

 

Thanks for the offer, mine's a 4wd, and is a totally different system.

When it comes time to replace the spindle, lmk, I have some of the tools (pickle forks, and a tierod end tool.) Wouldn't hesitate to lend them to a local.

 

Making progress, the outer race bearing came out of the rotor pretty easily. Just tapped it with a long flat punch and it came right out. Now, the inner bearing race is still in the rotor, undamaged, so I am not going to take that one out, I will reuse it. I will replace the bearing though.

I put the new outer race in the freezer for a few hours, and I installed it, tapping it with the same size socket, and it installed without problems.

So, the old rotor is clean and has both races in place, just need to grease the new bearings and mount the rotor, caliper and tire.

 

Done, truck is up and running, just to give a sequence of events to close this thread:

1.- Grinding noises from the front right tire, not so much at 20mph but louder over 20. When applying breaks it felt shaky, light vibration.
2.- Removed caliper, tire to inspect bearings. Outer one was damaged.
3.-Unable to remove rotor from spindle, not enough clearance because the race is stuck, bearings need to come out.
4.- Drove around a few miles, bearings broke, allowing clearance to remove rotor.
5.- Race stuck on spindle. Had to cut with a Dremel tool and a cutting disc.
6.- Used pb blaster, a chisel and 4 lb sledge hammer to force the race off the spindle. That was a long process, keep hitting it and it will come off. Pry open with a chisel, spray pb blaster and keep hitting it.
7.- Used emory cloth to smooth scored spindle from race being stuck.
8.- Outer race in good condition, did not remove from rotor.
9.- Cleaned rotor with brake fluid and wipe off any metal shavings from broken bearings.
10.- Put new outer race in the freezer for a few hours, tap into rotor with a large socket. Perfect fit.
11.- Repack bearings with new grease, replace seal with new one.
12.- Installed rotor, with new washer and nut. Here, I tighten the nut while spinning the rotor to 35 lbs to preload the bearings. Then I backed the nut, finger tightened it. Installed the nut retainer and cotter pin.

And that, as they say, is that.

Thank you for all your help!

 

The best part is that you didn't end up taking it to a shop, and got the job done yourself. Impressive that you got it done in the hot humid weather we're having. And you learned new stuff.

 

no problem, the outer races are not "stuck" in the rotor per se, they are meant to be a light "press fit" If you ever see an outer race that spins in a hub the hub is garbage.
The sticking it in a freezer is probably overkill it isn't that much of a press fit that you wouldn't have been able to walk the flat punch around the edge of the race and knock it in.
They actually do make a tool just for that job, comes with a handle and several different sized "discs" that screw to the handle which is meant to drive the races in.... a "bearing and race" seal driver. Not real expensive and does make the job a little easier, but not an absolute "gotta have"
now remember next time you have to replace a hub assembly and bitch about the cost.... the setup you have is simple cheap, it WORKS and most importantly can be dismantled for maintenance, unlike hub assemblies