I am replacing a shot wheel bearing and of course, the rotor is stuck to the hub. I am letting it soak over night in WD40 and in the morning I am taking a big hammer and hit it between the studs...no idea how else that thing comes off...other than beating the crap out of it. If you have a better idea please let me know...

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

That's about it. Tho WD40 isn't a great penetrating oil.

Just beat on it, if you have a dead blow hammer, use that. If you use a steel hammer, use a piece of hard wood to deaden the whack--and wear your safety glasses.

 

My bad, my rotor does not have a hub ( 2WD ), it is the outer bearing that is stuck, so the rotor won't come off either. I used a big 3 jaw puller and I it didn't budge...it feel as if I was about to brake the turning screw on the jaw puller...may just take it to the mechanic, this damn thing is not moving at all...

 

heat......torch it.....

 

I'd put the puller on with strong pressure, hit it with proper penetrating oil like Kroil or PB Blaster and let it sit for a couple of hours. Then hit it with a hammer and tighten the puller. Repeat as necessary.

Whatever, you'll end up needing to replace the bearings and the rotor/hub assembly.

Heat might help, but you run the risk of a grease fire, not a good thing. So if you have a heat gun, you might try that to provide a little heat.

 

Just bought pb blaster and a 4 lbs sledge hammer...I will try it again. I'll try what you suggested Bryan, since I don't have a torch. Called around for estimates and it will run around $180 to do the job.

That encouraged me to try again...will post results...Thanks all for the advice.

 

WHAT! a 96 2WD the hub and rotor are 1 piece! do you have the grease cap, cotter pin and nut off? if YES and still stuck, then the inner wheel bearing race on one of the whel bearings (probably outer bearing) is probably scored and seized to the spindle which IF that's the case would mean youd need a spindle as well...
if NO then pull thoe aforementioned cap, cotter pin and nut and try again to remove rotor and hub as 1 piece.

 

I put everything back, drove it around a few miles, came home, lifted the truck and the removed the tire and the rotor came right off...the broken bearing took care of the rest of the bearings. now the only thing still stuck, is the bearing holder or whatever that is, to the spindle. I am soaking it in pb blaster...I have been hammering it with a chisel from the back but is not budging...don't have a torch or a cutter. I'll try pullers but there isn't much of a lip.

volaredon...I may just get a spindle from the junk yard if this one doesn't come out... you are correct, the rotor has the lugnuts. So it is one piece.

 

once the grease and stuff is cleaned off if there is ANY bluing or scoring on the spindle you will have to.

the stuck part is called the inner race. only shot is a chisel and hammer
those are HARD steel, that a hacksaw wont touch... Have a Dremel? a lil crude, and youll go thru a few discs with that little cutter but itll do. (I have air tools and a huge
compressor)
the only way to cut that hard of steel is with a grinding wheel. Cut across the race with the Dremel, but DON'T cut into the spindle. Then try hammering the race off with a hammer and flat punch or chisel... punches and chisels can be had for just a few $ apiece at many stores. maybe you can get lucky and find a whole set for cheap. Not machinist quality but just as a "driver" to knock that race off even the cheap stuff should do If you were close by I'd give you a hand... (I'm located an hour south of Chicago)

 

If you have a grinder, you can carefully(!) cut into the inner race of the bearing (what's stuck to the spindle.) You don't need to cut all the way through, and want to avoid cutting the spindle, then hit it with a chisel and a hammer to break it the rest of the way.

Once it's off, you want to get some emory cloth (or wet/dry sand paper about 400 grit) and smooth the spindle. Polish it up.

I'm hoping you don't need to go find a replacement spindle. It isn't the money, it's the hassle of replacing it. It will require that you unhook the tierod end, and break loose the ball joints. And lower the lower control arm. Probably your truck will be laid up for the week if you can only work on it on the weekends.

So I'm wishing you good luck.