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Trying My Hand at a Little Bodywork

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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 12:26 PM
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Default Trying My Hand at a Little Bodywork

The previous owner must've had a topper, and it did quite a number on the paint above the rear window. So, I've purchased some paint (Chrysler paint code PW7) and clear coat, and in the next day or two I'll see if I can make any cosmetic improvement on my '95. There's also some normal paint deterioration on the roof that I'll address (second picture).

Let me know if you have any wisdom on this sort of thing; it'll be a first for me.

~Jim
 
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Old Oct 3, 2013 | 02:26 PM
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Well tape lines are a ***** and buy stupid fine sand paper to go over the primer and the paint. You want to go over the paint so the clear coat actually grabs it. I didn't do that and my clear coat is coming off after 2 months. Wish I would have
 
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Old Oct 5, 2013 | 02:38 PM
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Oddly enough, the instructions from the paint manufacturer state not to sand the base coat before applying the clear coat. So, I chose to play by their rules.

All in all, I'm satisfied with the results (considering this was a spray can job). I need to do some buffing to make the newly painted area match up with the old.

~ Jim
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 02:07 PM
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Ahaha good call I am by no means a pro. Just some expierence I did my self. Well I hope your clear coat lasts a lot longer than mine!
 
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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go for it the worst that could happen is you would have to pay some one to fix it. but thats where you are now.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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fyi that piece in your second pic that the rust if forming around is removable.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyjimjim
Oddly enough, the instructions from the paint manufacturer state not to sand the base coat before applying the clear coat. So, I chose to play by their rules.

All in all, I'm satisfied with the results (considering this was a spray can job). I need to do some buffing to make the newly painted area match up with the old.

~ Jim
Jim, the base coat is not the factory paint on the PU. That reference is meant for new "basecoat-clear coat systems. Older cured paint should be prepped for the new clear to adhere.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2013 | 08:20 PM
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Jim, Sounds like you already did it. One tip I know is that you need to make sure you've removed all of the rust. The tiniest bit left behind will grow. I'd sand the metal until it shined and shiny metal was coming off on the flex grinding pad,. Then clean the area with a soft lint free cloth and some paint thinner or MEK, if you're in a pinch use 90% alcohol. The point is to use something that drives out H2O and evaporates quickly. Let it dry and do it again. Then you can paint it safely ASAP. If you have to do it outside do it in the sun.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2013 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by stude53
Jim, the base coat is not the factory paint on the PU. That reference is meant for new "basecoat-clear coat systems. Older cured paint should be prepped for the new clear to adhere.
That makes good sense. Hopefully the prep I did on the original paint is sufficient. Thanks.

~ Jim
 
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