Ignition lock cylinder switch key replacement on a 1989 1990
#1
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I need to replace the key lock cylinder on my 1990. After 1991, removing the steering column shroud and getting to the lock cylinderis a simple matter of removing some screws. On mine, the shroud is one piece and will require pulling the steering wheel.
I purchased a FSM a while back (supposedly for 87-96), but only the later models are covered for this operation.
Can anyone talk me through this or point me to a schematic?
In an earlier thread, LO 619 helped Dakota1089 with this, but the images posted are no longer there. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...acement-2.html
If anyone knows whether it is covered in the haynes manual, I will gladly run out and buy one.
Any help is appreciated!
I purchased a FSM a while back (supposedly for 87-96), but only the later models are covered for this operation.
Can anyone talk me through this or point me to a schematic?
In an earlier thread, LO 619 helped Dakota1089 with this, but the images posted are no longer there. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...acement-2.html
If anyone knows whether it is covered in the haynes manual, I will gladly run out and buy one.
Any help is appreciated!
#2
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If you're trying to change the cylinder only, you can often get that done without removing the entire switch. On the older vehicles you were able to pull that cylinder out with the use of a special key - I'd suggest checking with your local dealership to see what they would have to say, or checking with a locksmith that deals with automotive keying systems (they might be cheaper).
If you do need to take things apart, you'll need to pull the steering wheel off and probably drop the column. Have a look under the dash to see how it's attached (usually just a couple of bolts holding it on) - you may not need to totally remove it to get to what you need. If the shroud isn't split, it may be held in place by the column retaining bolts. Do you have a steering wheel puller? You'll need access to one of these if you need to go inside the column to get the the switch - often you can borrow one of these from an auto parts supplier (many have tool loan programs available).
If you want any detailed advise, you'll probably get more accurate info if you post a few pictures of where you think your challenges are.
If you have an odd-ball configuration (something that wasn't in production for a long time), you may not get much info from the haynes manual, but I'd go to a shop that sells them and see if you can have a look - you may get lucky.
If you do need to take things apart, you'll need to pull the steering wheel off and probably drop the column. Have a look under the dash to see how it's attached (usually just a couple of bolts holding it on) - you may not need to totally remove it to get to what you need. If the shroud isn't split, it may be held in place by the column retaining bolts. Do you have a steering wheel puller? You'll need access to one of these if you need to go inside the column to get the the switch - often you can borrow one of these from an auto parts supplier (many have tool loan programs available).
If you want any detailed advise, you'll probably get more accurate info if you post a few pictures of where you think your challenges are.
If you have an odd-ball configuration (something that wasn't in production for a long time), you may not get much info from the haynes manual, but I'd go to a shop that sells them and see if you can have a look - you may get lucky.
#4
#5
#6
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check the sticky threads.
Each section for the various generations has them.
4th post on this page (FAQ docs and manuals):
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-dakota-66/
You will likely find the FSM or docs you need there.
The real paper FSM is year specific. Not sure about the digital versions.
If not, let me know and I'll dig my paper one out and scan the page.
Each section for the various generations has them.
4th post on this page (FAQ docs and manuals):
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen-dakota-66/
You will likely find the FSM or docs you need there.
The real paper FSM is year specific. Not sure about the digital versions.
If not, let me know and I'll dig my paper one out and scan the page.
#7
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Locksmiths apparently are busy people. Seems like a good line of work. Anyways, the one I was able to speak with said the problem could be the lock cylinder or it could be the inner workings of the steering column. The only way to know for sure is to remove the cylinder and see if it works or not independently. He is in the next town and wants $135 for the job. Guess I will need to learn to pull a steering wheel. I can borrow a puller when I pick the new cylinder up in the morning.
Also, after searching the sticky posts, I couldn't find anything about replacing the ignition lock cylinder or removing the steering wheel, but Autozone had some instructions for replacing the cylinder once the wheel was off. You have to depress a couple of pins and the cylinder pulls right out. The new one pops right in.
Also, after searching the sticky posts, I couldn't find anything about replacing the ignition lock cylinder or removing the steering wheel, but Autozone had some instructions for replacing the cylinder once the wheel was off. You have to depress a couple of pins and the cylinder pulls right out. The new one pops right in.
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#8
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Here's the info I have available.
I think it might be wrong. judging from the photos it included.
I replaced the lock years ago and getting it apart was simple.
I remember there was some issue I ran into with the lock+key itself.
If I remember correctly, even though it was definitely factory installed, the lock in mine was from a different chrysler model. Externally the same but the keyway was different.
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LK9t68xWbps/UvE0Sz20hCI/AAAAAAAAAHI/mweA2ymrTfA/s800/90%2520Steering%2520Column%25201.jpg)
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y1TSpEHzlmo/UvE0RWtan9I/AAAAAAAAAG8/sIQUfbeCJ0c/s800/90%2520Steering%2520Column%25202.jpg)
I think it might be wrong. judging from the photos it included.
- Remove negative battery cable. Remove cable shift rod from grommet (if equipped). Disengage wiring harness connector on steering column. Remove steering wheel pad, horn wires and horn switch.
- Remove steering wheel retaining nut and use Puller (C-3428B) to remove steering wheel. Remove turn signal lever. Remove wiring trough. Remove column shift lever by installing socket to back-up housing while driving roll pin out with punch. Remove turn signal switch and upper bearing retainer plate screws.
- Lift switch and retainer up and away from assembly. Remove ignition switch light assembly. Remove steering column snap ring and bearing housing-to-lock housing retaining screws. Remove bearing housing, coil spring and lock plate.
- Remove lock lever guide plate to expose lock cylinder release hole. Using key, put cylinder in LOCK position and remove key. Use small screwdriver to push in hole while pulling outward to remove lock cylinder. Remove ignition switch retaining screws and pull lock lever and spring assembly out of housing.
- Apply thin coat of multipurpose grease to friction surfaces. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Install key and turn assembly to the LOCK position. When key is removed, the cylinder will move inward and lock into the housing.
I replaced the lock years ago and getting it apart was simple.
I remember there was some issue I ran into with the lock+key itself.
If I remember correctly, even though it was definitely factory installed, the lock in mine was from a different chrysler model. Externally the same but the keyway was different.
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LK9t68xWbps/UvE0Sz20hCI/AAAAAAAAAHI/mweA2ymrTfA/s800/90%2520Steering%2520Column%25201.jpg)
![](https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y1TSpEHzlmo/UvE0RWtan9I/AAAAAAAAAG8/sIQUfbeCJ0c/s800/90%2520Steering%2520Column%25202.jpg)
![](https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TyunQZsHavQ/UvE0SwQDAoI/AAAAAAAAAHM/SfI0_fWyRh0/s800/90%2520Steering%2520Column%25203.jpg)
Last edited by RobertMc; 02-04-2014 at 01:50 PM.