Ragged89, Kinda funny you posted this. I was wondering about you a few days ago and was thinking about posting to see if there was any updates on your truck.
FWIW I had a similar situation 6 years ago. Right before thanksgiving, a heart valve that my doctor had been monitoring for years and years, all of a sudden needed to be replaced. Long story short, it was replaced feb. 4th 2010 and everything went great.
Praying that everything turns out fine for you. And you are right, it puts a new perspective on a lot of things!!

 

I guess we need to be reminded what its all about sometimes. I was getting regular checkups and had a routine colonscopy in 2014 with no problems. Then a couple months ago my wife noticed I seemed more tired, like I was anemic. Next thing you know, I'm getting another colonscopy, and the doc finds a good-sized tumor in my intestine. After it was removed, the surgeon said it grew into my intestine instead of outward through the wall, which kept it localized. I lost a few inches of colon, but I'm a very lucky guy. The prayers are much appreciated my friend, and I'm glad to hear that your "valve job" worked out for the best! We at least have plenty to be thankful for on Thanksgiving!

 

Good to hear ragged! I haven't logged on in a while but I've tried to keep up with the projects going on here. I should make an effort to post so people are encouraged to post up updates. I do have to "finish" out my build thread at some point, I think I'm missing some stuff...but then it's on to the next phase...eventually (V8 swap).

Good to "see" you guys again. I'm pretty confident I'll never sell my Dakota, because it's worth nothing anyways, lol...so I'll be around.

 

Hey tbugden, very glad you're still hanging around too! Yes, you should put those build thread updates in, they've been very helpful and based on the views I know a lot of folks are interested. Stay with us so we can keep up with you.

 

I've been fighting my brakes for a while now. I removed the hydraulic solenoid valve (on the frame, in the rear) because I couldn't bleed the rear lines past that point. After removing it and looking inside the inlet port it appears that pressure is required to push brake fluid past the hydraulic valve, so my vacuum bleeder wasn't doing the job. I cleaned it up and put it back on.

Now I have a leak at the rear of the combination valve (on the frame, in the front), which appears to be coming from an adapter I used on the line that goes to the rear. I've tightened it to no avail, so now I'm thinking the adapter isn't mating up properly. I may have to find another adapter, or get a flaring tool and use the original line nut.

I also had a leak on the right front caliper, at the banjo bolt. That appears to have stopped now, after some tightening.

When I fix the leak at the combo valve I can try bleeding the lines again. This time I'll do it the old-fashioned way, with a helper to to pump and hold the pedal, while I bleed each line.

I welcome any help/suggestions for dealing with that connection at the rear of the combo valve.

 

On my truck I replaced all the fittings in the front valve.
Unfortunately I have yet to pressurize the system to be 100% sure it's ok.
My big worry is the bleeder on the Rear ABS Valve. It was so rusted, that a friend of mine had to literally machine it from the hole. He then custom made a new bleeder screw.

One thing I would definitely look at, was the condition of the flare on tubing at the rear fitting on the front valve. it may be cracked or it may simply have a rough edge that is preventing it from sealing well.

Is it all new tubing ?

 

Sounds like you're about where I am. I haven't been able to pressurize my lines either, due to the leaks, etc.

I had problems with the rear bleeder too. Despite soaking it with penetrating oil, using heat on the casting and ice on the bleeder, and working it slowly, it eventually snapped off. I went ahead and put the valve assembly back on the frame, hoping I'll be able to bleed the lines just after the valve, where the line for the rear brakes exits the valve.

My tubing is all new, and the flares are factory made. I looked at the flares before installing, but it's possible some dirt or something fouled the seal at the combo valve, especially if it was in the valve fitting. Thanks, that's something I'll check.

When you replaced your fittings in the front valve, did you make your own flares and use the stock (or new) fittings, or did you use new 3/8's fittings with adapters?

Here's the adapters I used on the front combo valve. The connection I'm having problems with still has the old line on it. It's in the rear in this picture:

 

Every fitting is new. No adapters used anywhere.
I made new lines from bulk tubing and flared them myself.

Gen 1 Dakota Brake Valve

 

That's a clean-looking job, you really cleaned things up nice when you did your frame resto. Wishing I had just gone the bulk tubing route now, and done the flares it myself. I thought I was doing a good thing by using the factory-made flares, as I wasn't too sure I wanted to rely on my first-time attempt to make them. Where did you get your double-flare tool?

 

I used a traditional style snap-on/blue point one that I picked up for $40 used.

I must admit I was initially worried about getting the flares right, but the advantage of using the bulk line, was that I plenty of line to practice on.

The 2 biggest tricks are holding the tool in a bench vise, and making sure that the die stays level when it's doing the first stage of the flare.
If it's not level, the flare will be bad, because it's won't be centered.
I quickly discovered that if the die wasn't level/square, you could simply tap the flare "pressing" part of the tool in whichever direction you needed, when it was only partially pressed down.

I also discovered that the tool also worked for making reasonable bubble flares by simply doing both steps without fully flaring at each stage. That took a lot more finesse to get right, but it works. I plan on buying a bubble flare tool If i ever need to do it again.

The tubing used also makes a difference. I chose simple coated steel line, since the original lasted all these years anyhow. I's also soft enough to flare easily.

I used the same tubing in a different size, to replace the fuel lines.