I just did this and thought I would share pictures and the experience I had doing this little project.


To get started, you need to remove the wiper arms. Then raise the hood and remove the cowl vent cover. After that, remove the vent screen.


Now, here is where I started taking pictures. As you can see, the transmission is attached to the wiper motor. You can remove the nut and remove the little short arm, or as I did, I simply popped the longer arm off of the ball-socket. Hopefully when you look at the picture, it will make more sense.



Next, there are 3 screws that hold the wiper spindle in place, so you must remove them. 3 for the left and 3 for the right. Again, sorry, but I did not take pictures of this step.
After this, you simply pull the wiper transmission out of the truck.
This is a picture of the assembly as it was removed.





At this point, I suggest that you take a picture of the transmission before disassembly. The arms are stamped R or L on the ends as well as the spindles. But still, its easy to reverse things such as the bushings etc.
The arms are a ball-socket design and they pop apart. FWIW I used my bench grinder with a wire brush and cut the back side off of the bushing.
I then lightly sanded the arms, sprayed them with rustoleum paint.
Here are some pictures of the R-L markings.







Next, I ordered the bushings from Rock Auto. It takes 3 of 1 size-design and 1 of another. I had to buy 10 of 1 and 2 of the other.
But it is what it is. Cost about $18.00 shipped.
I already had a tube of silicone grease BTW you should use silicone and not a petroleum based grease on plastic, nylon, etc.
Here is a picture of the parts



Next, you simply press the bushings into the arms in reverse order of how it came apart. You may be able to do this by hand, but I used a vise and a copper tubing coupling to press them in.

Here is a picture of the transmission reassembled.



Then fish it back into truck, mount the 2 spindles (3 screws each) and then snap the arm back onto the motor. To do this I used a set of channel lock pliers to squeeze it on there.
Don't forget to grease it up with silicone grease, but not too much. It will push to the bottom of the bushing and block the ball part from going in.
One other note, the silicone grease I have is a larger tube that I use in my line of work, but you can buy a much smaller container at Lowes, Home Depot etc. in the plumbing section. Its actually called plumbers grease.


Hope this helps someone else who needs this done to their truck.

 

Great post! I just bought a '94 and the passenger wiper isn't working. This will help!

 

Im glad you liked it!! Its really not that difficult to do.

 

Before you tear into that - check the splines inside the wiper arm.

Turns out the Dorman replacements are absolute crap, and will spin off inside of a few weeks of heavy rain (or did for me.)

I ended up grabbing some out of the boneyard.

Need to grab a second set so I can wire brush them and paint them something besides Rust Red *grins*

Patina may be nice, but not on my windshield wipers.

RwP

 

I keep hearing about timing them. If the motor is parked, I can put the arms on accordingly in relation to the windshield moulding(outside) and in parked position. Which is why they have splines. Correct?

 

That’s how I do it.

 

????Bushing that holds long arm on to lh pivot.
Shouldn't the bottom bushing holding the long arm on have a hole in it sobit can go all the way down?

 

Thanks for great pics/write ups folks! This helps!
Just got two Dakota pickups given to me today.
1988 V6 I drove home over 50 miles today that has stripped wiper splines & possibly the wiper motors shot, not tested it but wipers are dead too boot?
I figured new linkage setups are not sold by any corps so Im heading to our oldest junk yards soon. Maybe Ill get lucky? Its a 3.9 V6, the other is a 1993 I believe, short bed base model with 318 V8/auto & it runs great too but the V8 may sit till spring? The heater cores leaking in floor and oh what a blast these are? Grrrr!
Just no time/space inside for that job yet? Mopar couldnt put its core behind its glove box or like the easiest one I ever did 35+yrs ago on a mid 1970's LTD were Ford simply dropped the core right down in top of their firewall by standing outside (pass side)? That LTD core was a 20 min fix so I never forgot it. Mopar had to be jerks like GM designers do all their chit so you'll never forget doing these cores either. Just another reason why they're sales numbers have tanked today.
The 6 banger truck is a fancy ol' rag with Chrome bumpers/ two tone paint/cruise/elect windows/locks, extra long bed too, man it was all class for a 1988..lol
Seen its better days now of course but rolls & was freeeee!
Do wish they were ext cabs so seats recline due to failed back/hip surgeries but hey 2 free trucks, Its all good!
Thanks again for the great pics OP.....Peace