Help! 92 dakota v6 3.9l died and wont start
#11
Pull the new crank sensor, crank it and see if you get the "clicks".
That may be hitting on the torque converter or the tone ring.
Also, what brand? These vehicles seem to be twitchy as to brand; it really ought to be a Mopar OEM crank sensor (there's always people who buy the house brand ones and they Just Plain Don't Work.)
RwP
That may be hitting on the torque converter or the tone ring.
Also, what brand? These vehicles seem to be twitchy as to brand; it really ought to be a Mopar OEM crank sensor (there's always people who buy the house brand ones and they Just Plain Don't Work.)
RwP
#13
Pull the new crank sensor, crank it and see if you get the "clicks".
That may be hitting on the torque converter or the tone ring.
Also, what brand? These vehicles seem to be twitchy as to brand; it really ought to be a Mopar OEM crank sensor (there's always people who buy the house brand ones and they Just Plain Don't Work.)
RwP
That may be hitting on the torque converter or the tone ring.
Also, what brand? These vehicles seem to be twitchy as to brand; it really ought to be a Mopar OEM crank sensor (there's always people who buy the house brand ones and they Just Plain Don't Work.)
RwP
#15
But with it clicking ... pull that crank sensor first, see if the clicking goes away. Also, that will allow you to see if the tone ring's been hitting it.
If not, check the cam sensor (inside the distributor); see if IT looks like it's hitting anything.
But before all that, LOOK for the discharge snaps. See if it's the HV output of the coil going somewhere besides the distributor.
RwP
#16
#17
After reading that you noticed the clicking after changing out the crank sensor, my first thought was that the new sensor may be hitting the flywheel. Ralph mentioned that possibility, and the fact that you hear it at the rear of the engine (distributor area) makes it even more likely as the source of the clicking, and the starting/running issue.
The crank sensor is normally very close to the flywheel tone ring so its possible to imagine some foreign object, like a broken off piece of the sensor you changed out, getting jammed up in there. If you pull it, check the end of the sensor for signs that it has come into contact with something. When the crank sensor isn't supplying a signal the ASD disables spark and fuel.
The crank sensor is normally very close to the flywheel tone ring so its possible to imagine some foreign object, like a broken off piece of the sensor you changed out, getting jammed up in there. If you pull it, check the end of the sensor for signs that it has come into contact with something. When the crank sensor isn't supplying a signal the ASD disables spark and fuel.
#18
After reading that you noticed the clicking after changing out the crank sensor, my first thought was that the new sensor may be hitting the flywheel. Ralph mentioned that possibility, and the fact that you hear it at the rear of the engine (distributor area) makes it even more likely as the source of the clicking, and the starting/running issue.
The crank sensor is normally very close to the flywheel tone ring so its possible to imagine some foreign object, like a broken off piece of the sensor you changed out, getting jammed up in there. If you pull it, check the end of the sensor for signs that it has come into contact with something. When the crank sensor isn't supplying a signal the ASD disables spark and fuel.
The crank sensor is normally very close to the flywheel tone ring so its possible to imagine some foreign object, like a broken off piece of the sensor you changed out, getting jammed up in there. If you pull it, check the end of the sensor for signs that it has come into contact with something. When the crank sensor isn't supplying a signal the ASD disables spark and fuel.
#19
Remove the coil wire to the distributor and crank...if clicking goes away it's a high arc clicking. If it remains, it's a mechanical interference somewhere.
#20