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Radiator Suggestions

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Old 07-13-2017, 12:54 PM
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Default Radiator Suggestions

With this 100 Deg heat, my 90 vert with the 360 magnum isn't staying cool. It will slowly climb over time. I have a 3000 cfm pusher fan and a standard 5.2L aluminum/plastic radiator I pulled from a 94 Dakota at the J/Y. The radiator looked like it was a recent aftermarket replacement so who knows the spec's. Any suggestions for a higher capacity radiator that won't break the bank? A 4 core perhaps?
 
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:16 PM
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Robert, I know you have a newer front end, so I dont know if this applies, But there was an optional 26in radiator on the early trucks. Spectra part number is CU982. Are you using the widest radiator possible?
 
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Old 07-13-2017, 01:33 PM
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Also, when does it overheat? At idle, or going down the road? If ok at idle but overheats going down the road, I wonder if your pusher fan is blocking air flow.
 
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Old 07-13-2017, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
Also, when does it overheat? At idle, or going down the road? If ok at idle but overheats going down the road, I wonder if your pusher fan is blocking air flow.
Both at Idle and going down the road. Idle a little worse as the fan obviously doesn't cover the entire radiator and I've read that you really shouldn't run a shroud on a pusher.

The fan I'm running doesn't have a lot of interference like some grilled fans. It's a perma-cool: http://www.code510.com/high-performa...iABEgJXLfD_BwE
 

Last edited by robertmee; 07-13-2017 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 07-13-2017, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by robertmee
Both at Idle and going down the road. Idle a little worse as the fan obviously doesn't cover the entire radiator and I've read that you really shouldn't run a shroud on a pusher.

The fan I'm running doesn't have a lot of interference like some grilled fans. It's a perma-cool: http://www.code510.com/high-performa...iABEgJXLfD_BwE
I'm running a narrow 6 cylinder radiator with my 5.2, and even in this heat, the fans only kick on when idling for a while. Temp barely hits mid-temp range. Of course my manual doesn't add the heat from trans cooling. Your higher horsepower engine should require more cooling I'm sure, but I wonder if trans cooling is adding to the load? Maybe running a test without the fan will give you an idea how far undersized your radiator is (or isn't). Also, you might want to try a separate trans cooler.
 
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Old 07-13-2017, 05:09 PM
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I'm not sure this would apply to the 5.2, I have the 3.9 and it didn't even like in range heat and when using the AC it would really get hot and of course lose performance. I opted for the 180 thermostat I like how it runs when its cooler better.
 
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Old 07-14-2017, 06:48 AM
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Well these are just a few of my thoughts.

1. The higher stall converter will build heat, and IMO you should use an aux. cooler for that. But I dont believe that would be a problem when setting still.....
2. By chance, are you using any kind of underdrive pulleys? If so, the pump may be spinning too slow.
3. If you have a point and shoot thermometer, try reading up and down the radiator to see if its got hot spots.
4. Assuming the radiator is fairly even, I would measure the temp. of the upper and lower hose. Compare the difference in these too measurements, ie 195 and 175 would be a 20 degree split. Then measure one of your other vehicles and see what that difference is. That may give you an idea, if its the radiator and or fan not removing the heat or a flow problem with the pump.
5. Other then the optional 26in width radiator, (and I believe they are single core) I cant find any aftermarket radiator listed as a direct fit in a 92-96 dakota.
6. May take measurements of what you have and see if you could make a universal style work. Again, FWIW I have read that going much past a 2 core does not make much difference.
7. Last thought, I would never buy a used radiator. The new ones are cheap enough, and from what I understand, the corrosion rate, inside the radiator greatly accelerates when they have been drained, ie setting in a junkyard. Something about air along with the antifreeze corrodes quickly.
8. Rock auto has a spectra cu1709 listed for $107.79. Also, here is a link to one from pepboys. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Prem...tZFfZd&vxp=mtr

Hope you get this figured out soon.

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This is a factory fan on a shelby. My understanding is they were I think 11in and moved about 1200 cfm each. They dont cover the entire radiator, and they pulled through a condenser as well. In short, I dont believe its your fan not covering the entire radiator causing your problem.
 
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Last edited by 93 ragtop; 07-14-2017 at 06:55 AM.
  #8  
Old 07-14-2017, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
Well these are just a few of my thoughts.

1. The higher stall converter will build heat, and IMO you should use an aux. cooler for that. But I dont believe that would be a problem when setting still.....
2. By chance, are you using any kind of underdrive pulleys? If so, the pump may be spinning too slow.
3. If you have a point and shoot thermometer, try reading up and down the radiator to see if its got hot spots.
4. Assuming the radiator is fairly even, I would measure the temp. of the upper and lower hose. Compare the difference in these too measurements, ie 195 and 175 would be a 20 degree split. Then measure one of your other vehicles and see what that difference is. That may give you an idea, if its the radiator and or fan not removing the heat or a flow problem with the pump.
5. Other then the optional 26in width radiator, (and I believe they are single core) I cant find any aftermarket radiator listed as a direct fit in a 92-96 dakota.
6. May take measurements of what you have and see if you could make a universal style work. Again, FWIW I have read that going much past a 2 core does not make much difference.
7. Last thought, I would never buy a used radiator. The new ones are cheap enough, and from what I understand, the corrosion rate, inside the radiator greatly accelerates when they have been drained, ie setting in a junkyard. Something about air along with the antifreeze corrodes quickly.
8. Rock auto has a spectra cu1709 listed for $107.79. Also, here is a link to one from pepboys. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Prem...tZFfZd&vxp=mtr

Hope you get this figured out soon.

Edit to add this picture



This is a factory fan on a shelby. My understanding is they were I think 11in and moved about 1200 cfm each. They dont cover the entire radiator, and they pulled through a condenser as well. In short, I dont believe its your fan not covering the entire radiator causing your problem.
Thanks for all the detailed thoughts....FYI you can no longer link from photobucket unless you pay $400 a year fee....it's ransom ware in a different form. All the links all over the net are broken now.

1. 2600 stall so something to consider.
2. No underdrive pulley...only 4 pulleys total....alt, ps, crank and wp....all stock for a 360.
3. No point and shoot but I do have a probe...good suggestion.
4. Difficult without point and shoot
5. Dame here.
6. I have a shop that can build one but it's $$$
7. I agree....however this radiator looked like it had just been put on the truck and it still had residual bright green antifreeze in it...so I took a chance.
8. Yeah in my Google searches spectra keeps coming up. Wasn't sure if that was a good brand.
​​​​
 
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:53 AM
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That is good deduction 93 ragtop.
I got a point/shoot thermometer at home despot for less than $20. The Rock Auto radiator for the 92 5.2 and the 94 3.9 are the same. I'm not sure what that means. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/d...,radiator,2172
 
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:53 AM
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I have no idea how good these are. but they are cheap enough https://www.harborfreight.com/non-co...ing-61894.html For work, I have a fluke that looks like this one, but I think it was over $100.00.
 

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