Radiator Suggestions
#41
I will try to look at mine latter today and see how much water is moving......
I would have thought that it would be quite a bit.
But that said, I really have a gut feeling, its still an air flow problem.
A pump not keeping up, blockage in the block passages etc. IMO would show up more under a load ie: driving, vs idle.
Another long shot, but have you tried it with the electric fan disconnected? Just wondering if the 2 are working against each other.
Also, when you drain it to flush with the cleaner, I wonder, could you take loose the lower or bypass hose and be able to look in and see the vanes on the pump? I have a Ridgid camera with a 3 ft. lead. It may take something like that to look in there, or you may be able to see. Just wondering.
I know what you mean about throwing parts at it.
Here is a link to the water wetter. https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
I would have thought that it would be quite a bit.
But that said, I really have a gut feeling, its still an air flow problem.
A pump not keeping up, blockage in the block passages etc. IMO would show up more under a load ie: driving, vs idle.
Another long shot, but have you tried it with the electric fan disconnected? Just wondering if the 2 are working against each other.
Also, when you drain it to flush with the cleaner, I wonder, could you take loose the lower or bypass hose and be able to look in and see the vanes on the pump? I have a Ridgid camera with a 3 ft. lead. It may take something like that to look in there, or you may be able to see. Just wondering.
I know what you mean about throwing parts at it.
Here is a link to the water wetter. https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10
So, continuing to flush this morning. I put the larger radiator hose on this morning. I removed the t-stat to expedite the flushing process, and now the water is flying through the radiator. I'm wondering if my brand new t-stat was bad out of the box. I also noticed it has 195 stamped on it. Could have sworn that I had bought a 190. In any case, with the t-stat out, the engine stays cool idling for 10 to 15 minutes between flushes. I had read on another forum, that sometimes the t-stat can go bad and during idle the temp doesn't open it enough, but during load, the water pressure from the pump will force it open. That would explain what I've been seeing somewhat, although I did try to see if it cooled down in idle with the RPM raised to 2000 and it didn't.
Good idea on the camera. I do have one. I'll see if I can snake it in there.
Incidentally, I'm on my 3rd flush and it's still pretty brownish. I found a good video and am following it's procedure. My water looks exactly like his at the beginning, maybe a little lighter like the 1st cup in the picture.
Last edited by robertmee; 07-23-2017 at 09:55 AM.
#42
difference between 190 and 195 t stat is too minimal to mean anything, that doesn't mean yours couldn't have been defective....
never actually heard of a "190" usually they are called a "192" or "195".... but again, splitting hairs there....the hottest t stat I have ever seen was a "207" I forget what kind of vehicle that was for, as I remember it was for some sideways engine, wrong wheel drive POS....
never actually heard of a "190" usually they are called a "192" or "195".... but again, splitting hairs there....the hottest t stat I have ever seen was a "207" I forget what kind of vehicle that was for, as I remember it was for some sideways engine, wrong wheel drive POS....
#43
I am cautiously optimistic that this one is solved. In the end, it was a combination of factors, but the main one was evidently a bad T-Stat....Chinese junk.
I haven't put the 160 deg stat back in yet, as it took 8 flushes to clear out my cooling passages. But on the last flush, I took it for a healthy 30 minute ride, and purposely stopped at several areas and let it idle for 10 minutes, and the gauge never approached 1/2 way. Brought it home and let it idle another 10 minutes in this 100 degree heat in the sun, and again, just a click below 1/2 way. And that's with just water, no Antifreeze. I'm thinking I probably didn't need the larger radiator or the extra fan in the end, but good insurance for $150 total. At least one fan should always work, and the the trans cooler in the radiator, doesn't hurt to have the larger one.
Thanks to everyone for tuning in, especially 93 Ragtop with all his great information and pictures....Hopefully this thread will help someone in the future whether cooling issues or what's needed for a swap.
I haven't put the 160 deg stat back in yet, as it took 8 flushes to clear out my cooling passages. But on the last flush, I took it for a healthy 30 minute ride, and purposely stopped at several areas and let it idle for 10 minutes, and the gauge never approached 1/2 way. Brought it home and let it idle another 10 minutes in this 100 degree heat in the sun, and again, just a click below 1/2 way. And that's with just water, no Antifreeze. I'm thinking I probably didn't need the larger radiator or the extra fan in the end, but good insurance for $150 total. At least one fan should always work, and the the trans cooler in the radiator, doesn't hurt to have the larger one.
Thanks to everyone for tuning in, especially 93 Ragtop with all his great information and pictures....Hopefully this thread will help someone in the future whether cooling issues or what's needed for a swap.
#46
Hey Robert, here is a link You may find interesting. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...r-pump.385677/
#47
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