Replace headlight switch?
Replace headlight switch?
Is there a how to anywhere? I removed the lower dash cover under the steering wheel and the under dash part under the headlight switch, but there's still not really any access. What do I remove next?
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
It's tight and snug, no doubt, but my fat short fingered hands can do it.
RwP
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
They're real.
Have you bothered picking up a factory service manual yet? Chrysler had Bishko printing them; you can find a few of them as PDFs in the FAQ here, others can be found on Ebay, RockAuto, or even other web sites.
I'd suggest one of those for you as you're working on your truck.
RwP
Have you bothered picking up a factory service manual yet? Chrysler had Bishko printing them; you can find a few of them as PDFs in the FAQ here, others can be found on Ebay, RockAuto, or even other web sites.
I'd suggest one of those for you as you're working on your truck.
RwP
Thanks, I found the manual in the FAQ.
Got it. Had to replace the headlight connector as well; it was melted into a pile of garbage. Thanks for whoever suggested ordering both parts. The one part that tripped me up was I didnt see hte release button on the headlight switch to release the ****, but after that it was smooth sailing.
After a few hours of butt splice crimps and heat shrink, I now have working marker lights and taillights again. Thanks guys! I'm going to relay my headlights in the future to prevent this much power from going through the switch.
Got it. Had to replace the headlight connector as well; it was melted into a pile of garbage. Thanks for whoever suggested ordering both parts. The one part that tripped me up was I didnt see hte release button on the headlight switch to release the ****, but after that it was smooth sailing.
After a few hours of butt splice crimps and heat shrink, I now have working marker lights and taillights again. Thanks guys! I'm going to relay my headlights in the future to prevent this much power from going through the switch.
All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 752
Likes: 2
From: Southeastern Virginia
Thanks, I found the manual in the FAQ.
Got it. Had to replace the headlight connector as well; it was melted into a pile of garbage. Thanks for whoever suggested ordering both parts. The one part that tripped me up was I didnt see hte release button on the headlight switch to release the ****, but after that it was smooth sailing.
After a few hours of butt splice crimps and heat shrink, I now have working marker lights and taillights again. Thanks guys! I'm going to relay my headlights in the future to prevent this much power from going through the switch.
Got it. Had to replace the headlight connector as well; it was melted into a pile of garbage. Thanks for whoever suggested ordering both parts. The one part that tripped me up was I didnt see hte release button on the headlight switch to release the ****, but after that it was smooth sailing.
After a few hours of butt splice crimps and heat shrink, I now have working marker lights and taillights again. Thanks guys! I'm going to relay my headlights in the future to prevent this much power from going through the switch.
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Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
RwP
All Star
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 752
Likes: 2
From: Southeastern Virginia
Regarding the halogen replating thing, I hadn't heard that before. That's interesting, all told its almost crazy NOT to do the relay mod.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
The math and formulas used by chemists can be hairy, but here's a quick explanation:
http://homepages.inf.ed.ac.uk/rbf/CV...ogenCycle.html
The halogen gas does it job by catching atoms from the filament which are driven from surface by the high temperature. In standard incandescent lamps those atoms collect on the glass and can be seen as the black deposit in an old lamp.
If a halogen gas is present in the lamp with a tungsten filament then the atoms which are driven off combine with halogen molecules. Instead of collecting on the lamp wall, the tungsten atoms stay attached to the halogen gas until they are returned to the filament where the tungsten and halogen are separated. The tungsten is deposited on the filament and the halogen gas is free to circulate, again available to intercept a tungsten atom.
Because the atoms return to to the filament, halogen lamps can be used at higher temperatures in spite of the fact that the heat causes atoms to leave the surface at a faster rate.
RwP
http://homepages.inf.ed.ac.uk/rbf/CV...ogenCycle.html
The Halogen Cycle
Some incandescent lamps contain a special gas called a halogen.Halogen lamps can give off more light than standard incandescent lamps because they operate at higher temperatures. The higher temperature also means that the light is whiter. The molecules of the gas perform a service called the halogen cycle which permits the higher temperature.The halogen gas does it job by catching atoms from the filament which are driven from surface by the high temperature. In standard incandescent lamps those atoms collect on the glass and can be seen as the black deposit in an old lamp.
If a halogen gas is present in the lamp with a tungsten filament then the atoms which are driven off combine with halogen molecules. Instead of collecting on the lamp wall, the tungsten atoms stay attached to the halogen gas until they are returned to the filament where the tungsten and halogen are separated. The tungsten is deposited on the filament and the halogen gas is free to circulate, again available to intercept a tungsten atom.
Because the atoms return to to the filament, halogen lamps can be used at higher temperatures in spite of the fact that the heat causes atoms to leave the surface at a faster rate.