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Need to Replace Fuel Pump

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  #1  
Old 05-31-2018, 07:15 PM
bronze
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Default Need to Replace Fuel Pump

1993 Dodge Dakota LE, 5.2L extended cab, original owner.

Hi guys, my fuel pump crapped out today. Gonna replace it. Any tips? I see there are 8 places for bolts holding down the bed. I'm missing three of the eight. Can't tell if they were ever there or if they rotted out. My truck has little rot because it has been kept in garage its whole life plus it was Ziebarted and I live in NC the last 20 years where there is no salt.. And because the holes don't line up very well it tells me they were never there. Jerks! Looks like I have to unplug a couple tail light harnesses and do something with that rod for the spare tire that goes to the bed. Unhook the filler neck. Looks like I can do that from inside the gas flap. Jack 'er up and then I can access the pump.

Then it looks like I have to transfer a part or two from the old module to the new module then nurse it back in and reattach everything.

I welcome any of your tips, tricks, and watch outs! Thanks guys! Ed
 
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:31 PM
volaredon
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I have done fuel pumps both ways, lowering the tank and raising the bed. On my full size with their 36ish gallon tank, I raised the bed. On my Dakotas with either a 15 or 22 gallon tank (the last 3 in a row have been the 22 gallon version…. 4, if you count my 94 that I swapped a big tank for its original small 15 gallon tank) On my 92 and my 96, by the time I got those trucks, I had a 2 post lift in my garage and a tranny jack which helps.... when I had the 93, I had that tank out 3 times. all laying on my back, also did my 90 that way, it was not that bad.
 
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Old 05-31-2018, 07:41 PM
onemore94dak
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You should only have to worry about the spare tire removal rod if you lift the bed to do this. In that case you should only need to remove the escutcheon for it next to the plate , 2 Phillips screws, and once the bed is loose it will easily clear it. The only thing I did not consider was scratching the paint in the corners on the bumper inner services.Tape some carpet scraps in there before lifting it by yourself. I was trying to emulate some guys on YT in Detroit who had it propped up with a milk carton. It no work out that way
 

Last edited by onemore94dak; 05-31-2018 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 05-31-2018, 08:04 PM
bronze
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Good head's up fellas. Thanks.
 
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Old 06-01-2018, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by bronze View Post
Good head's up fellas. Thanks.
Where at in NC? I'm in Raleigh.

I have a lift and Jacks so it's a 20 minute job to drop the tank...done it a half dozen times. Even with the lift I think it'd be easier on my back on a crawler than lifting the bed.
 
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:35 PM
bronze
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Got the bed lifted. Waiting for pump to show up now whenever that is.

Easy job to lift bed. I went this route because I have a full tank of gas (pump crapped out right at the gas pump after I filled it to the top). That's about 150 pounds of fuel I didn't want to fart around with.

Bed lifting procedure...
1) Eight bolts hold the bed down (I was missing three). Four each side. Got to scan underneath to find them. Not that hard once you get a lay of the land. Soak bolts overnight with PB Blaster. Remove. 14mm or 9/16" socket with extensions and swivels if you got 'em.
2) Lower spare tire
3) Remove the outermost tube segment that goes to the spare tire winch.
4) Unplug 2 tail light wire harnesses left and right.
5) Unscrew the four screws holding the filler neck to the bed (open gas flap and they're right there).
6) Place a rug (or similar) between bumper corners and bed to prevent scratching the paint (good recommendation from onemore above).
7) Ready to lift bed.
8) Place floor jack in front of back tire toward the front of the bed. Puzzle in some boards (a couple feet or about) between the bed and floor jack. Smoothly lift bed a foot or so. Place blocks between bed and truck frame for safety. Be sure to lift high enough for clearance when pulling fuel pump module out/in.
 

Last edited by bronze; 06-01-2018 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 06-01-2018, 01:36 PM
bronze
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Robert, I'm near 50 and 98.
 
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Old 06-01-2018, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by bronze View Post
Robert, I'm near 50 and 98.
Sounds like you go it....next time give me a holler and you can use my lift.

Also I have some spare stuff left over from my build if you find you need a new front bumper lower valence, body bushings and other misc sruff. I have a set of bushwhacker flares too I might sell. Theyre NLA.
 
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Old 06-03-2018, 12:32 PM
bronze
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Thanks Robert. Yeah, no problem getting the bed lifted. Not that hard. Still waiting for the pump. None of the local parts store had it in stock. Hope to get it Monday or Tuesday and be done with this job. I'm kind of a perfectionist and thought about cleaning out the tank but I'm not going to. The thing is full to the brim with fuel and I just don't feel like I need to. I bought the truck brand new and it has been garage-kept its entire life so corrosion has really been minimal inside and out. I also use Mystery Oil in my fuel. I don't believe I have a corrosion problem. So I need to get over myself with all this unneeded perfection. Sometimes you create more problems than you solve. Leave it alone!

As I stated in my original post, my bed is missing three bolts. There are bolts in only five of the eight locations. At least one of the hole sets do not line up. One other is marginal and the other is lined up pretty good. Not sure what size bolts those are but it appears a 5/16" would work. Wondering if those are metric bolts and the 5/16" will be a bit sloppy. I'd like to get as many bolts on that bed as I can. Not sure if I've been riding on five bolts since 1993 or if they somehow came out along the way.
 
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Old 06-03-2018, 01:23 PM
RalphP
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I want to say that it's 5/16" also; it may be 10mm, though, which is the same diameter.

You may want to put 4 in, and take the 5th to the hardware store (unless you have other wheels, then I'd go to the hardware store and see).

O'Reilly's, Lowe's, and Home Depot all have nice little "Does your bolt fit into this?" panels that go up that big, plus you can always match the thread with a nut in the "XXX per pound" pile, then use that to figure out what size the bolt actually is.

RwP
 
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