Well guys. Finally got the truck running and god does it sound good .had to switch out the throttle body for the one off the parts truck. Cleaned it up real good and put on a new gasket. Got a code 25 so I'm gonna swap iacs and see if that fixes it, if not I'm gonna have to chase down vacuum hoses and find the leak. Ended up adjusting the idle via the screw on the throttle body and got it down to 850. It smokes a little not sure if it's oil leaking past the valve stem seals, or through the head gasket. So I'm gonna clean up my spare heads and swap them out with some MLS gaskets. But for now I'm just happy it runs really good. Here's a link below. Might have to copy and paste it cuz I'm an idjit. Tell me what you guys think

 

Sounds pretty good. (for the fidelity you get from your cam.....) Yeah, I think valve seals are pretty much gone.

 

It's been sitting for over a year. Kinda figured they'd be toast. I've got an extra set of heads that'll be going in the blast cabinet in the morning. They'll get blasted, then tore down and cleaned thoroughly. I'll even polish the valve stems and lap the valves. Might do seats springs retainers and locks as well, not sure yet. But I'll figure it out. I've already got my backup Intake manifold ready to be Installed
believe it or not the sound is pretty close just alot louder. I hooked my phone up to the stereo and turned it all the way up and you couldn't tell the difference

 

I have never been a fan of the stock heads. The deck castings were too thin, and led to cracking around the valve seats. I generally just recommend replacement with better aftermarket castings. (they are thicker) Also..... A good opportunity for an upgrade? Better flowing heads?

 

I second this.

EngineQuest heads can be used as-is, are beefier where factory crack, and breath much better.

Edlebrocks are good, but it seems to be hit and miss as to if they were cleaned up properly at the factory; this worries me as to QC from Edlebrock.

RwP

 

I plan on going aftermarket but on the motor I'm going to rebuild. For now stock is fine. The motor in the truck has 209k on it. I'm gonna throw these heads on with new gaskets, and put on a new timing set and call it good till the other engine and trans is rebuilt.
plans for the rebuild:
Engine quest heads
Stiffer valvesprings
Hs 1.7 rockers
Port match heads and intake to the intake gaskets
Double roller timing set
Using coated bearings for the rods and mains
New cam stock or close to stock grind
.020 overbore
Deck the block a little for a perfectly flat surface
MLS gaskets and arp studs
May spend the money on coated forged aluminum pistons
Exhaust will be done long before the rebuild
Trans will get rebuilt with all new everything plus shift kit etc

 

That exhaust does sound good!! What are the details of it? IE cats or no cats, muffler, etc.

 

Stock manifolds, stock y pipe. Y pipe necked down halfway back from 3 to 2.5 Inches. Then a 2.5 inch y pipe attached to two 2.5in/out flowmaster super 40s then 2.5 inch pipes all the way back to the hitch

The new setup will be pacesetter headers, 3 inch pipe all the way to the mufflers, then a 3in inlet dual 2.5inch outlet y pipe with two single chamber mufflers that'll have turndowns that exit before the rear axle. I may add a cherry bomb or thrush glass pack to help with tone and resonance

 

Well started blasting the heads. Compression Chambers cleaned up good but I ran into a small problem. Haven't had the chance to hook up my air dryer/ water seperator. So having issues with the nozzle getting gunked up

The plan is to blast the heads. I've got the springs masked off so I dont hit the valve stems
after that I'll pull springs and valves. Soak the valves in carb cleaner then clean up any leftover gunk. I'll hand polish the valve faces and stems. Not gonna go all out and grind the valves and seats, just gonna gonna re lap the valves in there original locations. Don't need 200k worth of miles from these heads. Just 20 to 50k. May replace the valvesprings though. Not sure yet

 

This is just a suggestion but, I would take the money for the roller rockers and spend it on a camshaft. The magnum engine leaves alot of hp on the table with their cams. The roller rockers help lift, but do little for duration. Another option, would be to have the cam reground. Oregon cams seem to have a good rep. and ave very reasonable. Of course the regrind would require new push rods... Oh, and match the springs to the cam...