How much damage have I caused?
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,724
Likes: 153
Put in a tensioner on the timing chain. Heck if you can afford to buy one put in a new timing chain. you will have everything off and its right there anyway. I went with double roller.
Edit- I forget if you have to remove the balancer to do the timing chain, that may make it harder. The tensioner will go right in.
Edit- I forget if you have to remove the balancer to do the timing chain, that may make it harder. The tensioner will go right in.
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,724
Likes: 153
IDK about the coolant causing that.
I just suggested the Tensioner and Timing Chain because you are going to have everything off right there. Like I said I forget if you need to take off the balancer to do the chain but I know you can install the tensioner while doing the water pump. It will be exposed right there just 3 bolts. I only suggest the chain because of age, you will probably have to do it soon anyway and that means draining coolant and taking all the stuff off that you are going to take off for the water pump again.
I just suggested the Tensioner and Timing Chain because you are going to have everything off right there. Like I said I forget if you need to take off the balancer to do the chain but I know you can install the tensioner while doing the water pump. It will be exposed right there just 3 bolts. I only suggest the chain because of age, you will probably have to do it soon anyway and that means draining coolant and taking all the stuff off that you are going to take off for the water pump again.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,480
Likes: 4,223
From: Clayton MI
Being excessively low on coolant will make the engine temp sensor inaccurate, which *may* make the engine run wonky. Might consider doing a compression test before putting a bunch of money into the motor.....
Some of the water pump bolts also help seal the timing cover. One of the sometimes consequences of doing the water pump is, the timing cover starts to leak, and you get to do the job again. It's only six more bolts and the balancer to get the cover off...... and then the timing gears/chain are RIGHT there. It's actually worth doing on a high mileage motor. (assuming everything else is in good shape.....)
Some of the water pump bolts also help seal the timing cover. One of the sometimes consequences of doing the water pump is, the timing cover starts to leak, and you get to do the job again. It's only six more bolts and the balancer to get the cover off...... and then the timing gears/chain are RIGHT there. It's actually worth doing on a high mileage motor. (assuming everything else is in good shape.....)
Thread Starter
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Amateur
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Well i was able to do some more snooping around on the Koter before work. I siliconed the drain plug on the radiator for a temp seal as im going to get a new radiator anyways. I filled the radiator up with fluid, started the truck, noticed that coolent kept shooting out and not like when you have air bubbles. Also noticed that some steam and water in the exhaust. The truck runs very rough. Checked oil level and nothing has changed. See no trace of coolant in the oil. Next step is to check the coolant for CO2 with that blue liquid test...
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
Wel upon doing a closer inspection, the drain plug on radiator had blown off from the pressure. Truck starts right up but idles poorly. I pulled all the plugs and they looked clean. I couldnt fill with coolant yer because i need to get a new drain plug however the radiator is in horrible shape and is getting replaced as is the fan clutch and water pump. The ticking noise is no longer there.
THAT radiator was dead for a while; it's probably killed your motor.
I'd plan on all new cooling system (including heater core; if this looks like that, just THINK what that heater core looks like!) and a engine rebuild or replacement.
RwP
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 109
From: Va
If it was my truck, what I would do is the following
1. Remove the thermostat and while you have it out, look in the manifold and see if the corrosion is as heavy in the manifold as the radiator.
2. Put the thermostat housing back on without the thermostat
3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator
4 Take a water hose and start filling the radiator
5 Continue filling until water is coming out the upper hose
6. Start the engine and let it idle, continue running water in the radiator
7. flush until it is clear
8. Shut the engine off and check compression
Assuming compression is good, it idles ok, I would buy a new radiator, again flush with upper hose disconnected until clear.
Put in a new thermostat, fresh water, and drive for a few days....
If everything checks out, I would then drain and refill with anti-freeze mix.
At this point, you are probably into it for $125.00 to $200.00
Additional things I believe you should consider
1. What are your mechanical abilities? ie: could you rebuild the engine yourself? Do you have a place to work on the truck?
2. What is the condition of the truck?
3. Consider what the repairs will cost and what the truck is worth.
If it turns out that you are leaking water internally ie: head gasket, cracked or warped heads, I would do one of the following
1. Junk the truck, after considering the condition of the rest of the truck. (these trucks are cheap to buy. They simply are not worth much money)
2. Buy a used engine and replace it.
3. Disassemble your current engine. I would at least have the block hot tanked and new freeze plugs installed. You may get away with new bearings, rings, oil pump, gasket set, and timing chain set.
Again, consider what the truck is worth.
1. Remove the thermostat and while you have it out, look in the manifold and see if the corrosion is as heavy in the manifold as the radiator.
2. Put the thermostat housing back on without the thermostat
3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator
4 Take a water hose and start filling the radiator
5 Continue filling until water is coming out the upper hose
6. Start the engine and let it idle, continue running water in the radiator
7. flush until it is clear
8. Shut the engine off and check compression
Assuming compression is good, it idles ok, I would buy a new radiator, again flush with upper hose disconnected until clear.
Put in a new thermostat, fresh water, and drive for a few days....
If everything checks out, I would then drain and refill with anti-freeze mix.
At this point, you are probably into it for $125.00 to $200.00
Additional things I believe you should consider
1. What are your mechanical abilities? ie: could you rebuild the engine yourself? Do you have a place to work on the truck?
2. What is the condition of the truck?
3. Consider what the repairs will cost and what the truck is worth.
If it turns out that you are leaking water internally ie: head gasket, cracked or warped heads, I would do one of the following
1. Junk the truck, after considering the condition of the rest of the truck. (these trucks are cheap to buy. They simply are not worth much money)
2. Buy a used engine and replace it.
3. Disassemble your current engine. I would at least have the block hot tanked and new freeze plugs installed. You may get away with new bearings, rings, oil pump, gasket set, and timing chain set.
Again, consider what the truck is worth.
Thread Starter
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Amateur
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
If it was my truck, what I would do is the following
1. Remove the thermostat and while you have it out, look in the manifold and see if the corrosion is as heavy in the manifold as the radiator.
2. Put the thermostat housing back on without the thermostat
3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator
4 Take a water hose and start filling the radiator
5 Continue filling until water is coming out the upper hose
6. Start the engine and let it idle, continue running water in the radiator
7. flush until it is clear
8. Shut the engine off and check compression
Assuming compression is good, it idles ok, I would buy a new radiator, again flush with upper hose disconnected until clear.
Put in a new thermostat, fresh water, and drive for a few days....
If everything checks out, I would then drain and refill with anti-freeze mix.
At this point, you are probably into it for $125.00 to $200.00
Additional things I believe you should consider
1. What are your mechanical abilities? ie: could you rebuild the engine yourself? Do you have a place to work on the truck?
2. What is the condition of the truck?
3. Consider what the repairs will cost and what the truck is worth.
If it turns out that you are leaking water internally ie: head gasket, cracked or warped heads, I would do one of the following
1. Junk the truck, after considering the condition of the rest of the truck. (these trucks are cheap to buy. They simply are not worth much money)
2. Buy a used engine and replace it.
3. Disassemble your current engine. I would at least have the block hot tanked and new freeze plugs installed. You may get away with new bearings, rings, oil pump, gasket set, and timing chain set.
Again, consider what the truck is worth.
1. Remove the thermostat and while you have it out, look in the manifold and see if the corrosion is as heavy in the manifold as the radiator.
2. Put the thermostat housing back on without the thermostat
3. Disconnect the upper radiator hose at the radiator
4 Take a water hose and start filling the radiator
5 Continue filling until water is coming out the upper hose
6. Start the engine and let it idle, continue running water in the radiator
7. flush until it is clear
8. Shut the engine off and check compression
Assuming compression is good, it idles ok, I would buy a new radiator, again flush with upper hose disconnected until clear.
Put in a new thermostat, fresh water, and drive for a few days....
If everything checks out, I would then drain and refill with anti-freeze mix.
At this point, you are probably into it for $125.00 to $200.00
Additional things I believe you should consider
1. What are your mechanical abilities? ie: could you rebuild the engine yourself? Do you have a place to work on the truck?
2. What is the condition of the truck?
3. Consider what the repairs will cost and what the truck is worth.
If it turns out that you are leaking water internally ie: head gasket, cracked or warped heads, I would do one of the following
1. Junk the truck, after considering the condition of the rest of the truck. (these trucks are cheap to buy. They simply are not worth much money)
2. Buy a used engine and replace it.
3. Disassemble your current engine. I would at least have the block hot tanked and new freeze plugs installed. You may get away with new bearings, rings, oil pump, gasket set, and timing chain set.
Again, consider what the truck is worth.
A few months ago i replaced the intake plenum gasket with the hughes kit. Did full tuneup, clean everything out. All new gaskets and sensors. Changed the t stat, did a flush and filled radiator. Truck ran perfectly for the last 20k miles. The body is in mint condition not a spot of rust. With the way that it idles i think my head gasket is gone. Ive had no time and need to do a compression check before i tear into it. If motor is junk i think id rather get a reman unit than rebuild the current one. Itll cost damn near the same
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 2,724
Likes: 153
A few months ago i replaced the intake plenum gasket with the hughes kit. Did full tuneup, clean everything out. All new gaskets and sensors. Changed the t stat, did a flush and filled radiator. Truck ran perfectly for the last 20k miles. The body is in mint condition not a spot of rust. With the way that it idles i think my head gasket is gone. Ive had no time and need to do a compression check before i tear into it. If motor is junk i think id rather get a reman unit than rebuild the current one. Itll cost damn near the same
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 109
From: Va
A few months ago i replaced the intake plenum gasket with the hughes kit. Did full tuneup, clean everything out. All new gaskets and sensors. Changed the t stat, did a flush and filled radiator. Truck ran perfectly for the last 20k miles. The body is in mint condition not a spot of rust. With the way that it idles i think my head gasket is gone. Ive had no time and need to do a compression check before i tear into it. If motor is junk i think id rather get a reman unit than rebuild the current one. Itll cost damn near the same
I understand and agree with the reman. I guess the point I was trying to make is that corision is going to be in the engine as well. Freeze plugs are thin, and likely some of them may be ready to let go.....
If you go with a reman. you will still have the odds and ends, ie water pump, motor mounts etc. that you will probably want to replace.
It sounds like a nice truck and if you like it, thats all that matters.
But keep in mind, a new motor does not make a new truck. Transmission, frame, suspension, etc. are 23 years old.