Engine Drain blocks
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Amateur
Joined: Aug 2018
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Engine Drain blocks
Where can I find the engine drain blocks? I have removed the radiator, needs to be patched or replaced. Got the valve covers off, now I need to remove intake manifold. The Haynes says simpley says to drain the engine block of coolant...but doesn’t say where those drains are. No idea what to look for!
Also, is removing the distributor necessary to remove the intake manifold? It look really out of the way, and nothing like the manual
Also, is removing the distributor necessary to remove the intake manifold? It look really out of the way, and nothing like the manual
Champion
Joined: Sep 2013
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It would help if you told us what you are doing and what vehicle. A haynes is not considered a manual.There is a PDF of the 1995 dakota Factory Service Manual on the FAQ page. You can get a CD of the original FSM for $23 on Rock Auto of whatever year your vehicle is.
There is no drain as far as I know. Usually when someone is tearing down the motor and needs to drain it they pull the freeze plugs. If you are just going to do the plenum you only have to remove the alt and get at the water pump. I think you need to to get the hoses off it.
There is no drain as far as I know. Usually when someone is tearing down the motor and needs to drain it they pull the freeze plugs. If you are just going to do the plenum you only have to remove the alt and get at the water pump. I think you need to to get the hoses off it.
Thread Starter
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Amateur
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 41
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It would help if you told us what you are doing and what vehicle. A haynes is not considered a manual.There is a PDF of the 1995 dakota Factory Service Manual on the FAQ page. You can get a CD of the original FSM for $23 on Rock Auto of whatever year your vehicle is.
There is no drain as far as I know. Usually when someone is tearing down the motor and needs to drain it they pull the freeze plugs. If you are just going to do the plenum you only have to remove the alt and get at the water pump. I think you need to to get the hoses off it.
There is no drain as far as I know. Usually when someone is tearing down the motor and needs to drain it they pull the freeze plugs. If you are just going to do the plenum you only have to remove the alt and get at the water pump. I think you need to to get the hoses off it.
Thanks for the reply! I’m pretty damn new to working on vehicles so excuse the incompetence. I got a 1996 Dakota with a 5.2L V8. The head gasket blew, decided I’d rather try fixing it than junking it. Learning a lot for sure haha. I have to remove the intake manifold and am worried about getting coolant all over my engine.
I will definitely go hunt that service manual link down!
Record Breaker
Joined: Apr 2013
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From: Alberta
don't remove the engine drain plugs or frost plugs. drain the coolant by removing the lower rad hose at the engine. the idea is to get the coolant drained to below the heads so when you remove them the coolant doesn't drain into the oil pan. Since you have head gasket issues; do an oil change while you have it apart....any coolant that drains into the oil pan will be removed when you remove the oil drain plug.
Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
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From: Northwest Louisiana
If you feel like you must ("I must, I must!" Cisco Kid in Blazing Saddles) then pull the drain plugs at the front of the block on either side.
They'll usually look like pipe plugs.
Be SURE to use a sealer when you put them back in!
But primem is right; normally, just pulling the radiator hose will do the job.
RwP
They'll usually look like pipe plugs.
Be SURE to use a sealer when you put them back in!
But primem is right; normally, just pulling the radiator hose will do the job.
RwP
Record Breaker
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,815
Likes: 56
From: Alberta
once your apart....use a straight edge and feeler gauge check the head gasket and block for warpage.
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Amateur
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Im attempting to replace my head gasket, so that’s going to be done. It would be awesome to check the heads for damage myself rather than pay a shop $100-$150. Especially when a head gasket kit is $80, and new head bolts are $35. Getting damn close to what I paid for the truck! ($400).
I’ll look into a feeler gauge. What is the best way to get a straight edge that you know is straight and good for checking for head warpage?
