Here is link to album:

http://imgur.com/a/Mg0tt9N


The one on the left is mine. Off a 92 LE. however, it's clogged. So I got another from a junkyard, but different trim. I'm assuming I cannot use the right as a substitute?

 

That's not egr, it for PCV, they are both pretty much the same, basically just some baffles inside, and that's it. So, yes, you can use the one that is not clogged.

 

Uuhhhh ....


NOT EGR valves!

Those are PCV breathers.

If it fits, it works.

But new is fairly cheap - most expensive one RockAuto shows is $3.23 (!!!);

Also, same valve was used 3.9 and 5.2 from 1987 to 1996. The bottom may be shaped differently, due to who exactly made it, but it fits and works.

Your EGR valve? For a 1992, it's off the back of the passenger exhaust manifold up to the rear of the intake - EGR valve looks more like


(credit to RockAuto)

RwP

 

Speaking of EGR valves, I got a used (looked like new) one from a 95 Dak 3.9L engine, was actual Chrysler unit. Got it installed went to look up the part number because it was an odd number and found that it was supposed to be for Grand Caravan with 3.3L V6, IIRC it was 97-2000 GC.

Anyway, can't complain the check engine light hasn't been on since so at least it's working.

Steve

 

Thanks y'all.

My truck doesn't start the first time, them it starts the second time but rough, then the third time it runs perfect.

Reading online led me to EGR valve, but my Google search led me to those pics 🤦*♂️

So would EGR be the culprit in this?

 

Possibly; but not likely - if EGR was sticking open, it wouldn't make any difference.

What you're describing sounds MORE like the fuel pressure bleeds down overnight.

Have you done a fuel pressure check? I'd work there WWWAAAAYYYYY before I fiddled with EGR.

(That needed to be replaced if it was plugged up anyway; and also the PCV valve if the breather is plugged. I'd also suggest, contrary to my normal, to pick up a Fram PCV valve and use that for a while. Oh, it'll increase oil consumption - but it will ALSO help relieve the blow by that's the ONLY way that breather can get plugged!)

RwP

 

Also, do you have the factory service manual for your truck?

Until you do, STEP AWAY FROM THE KEYBOARD. FORGET THE GOOGLES, THEY DO NOTHING!!!

It'll have methods for testing all the subsystems.

RwP

 

Ditto what Ralph said, my truck bleeds down at night (unfortunately) and it typically takes several priming operations to get it to start. The pump is strong, I've put a pressure gauge on the rail and it's good, but the regulator or one way valve at the pump is no longer working.

Yesterday it only took cycling the key twice, but typically I have to do cycle the key on twice (to run pump), then try and start, then cycle twice once more and then it will start. On rare occasions it will require a third attempt to build enough pressure to run solid but most time it'll take two.

You can hear the pump do the priming run (2-3 seconds) and it will typically do two of those before requiring that the starter be run. Sometimes the pump won't prime again after cycling the starter but usually it will.

I would fix it now but with the weather we're having it's not gonna happen. We just got dumped on two days ago and another 5-9" of snow expected tonight. I'll fix it in the spring by replacing the whole unit, the level sender is no longer working either so I think the best solution is to just replace it all and be done with it. I might go with the earlier setup that uses external filter (which I prefer). At that point I'll also do new fuel lines with a more direct run and fewer of these drastic bends that seem ridiculous.

Steve

 

Oh and those PCV breather elements are interchangable. As long as the unit isn't completely blocked with sludge you'll be fine.

OTOH on RA those things are cheap. I replaced it and the PCV valve (also suggested) for less than $3 I think.

 

The first picture is the crank case breather element. It is in the valve cover opposite the PCV and the other end goes into the air cleaner basket.