Strangest things happen to me
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Champion
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 4,737
Likes: 374
From: Northwest Louisiana
Strangest things happen to me
My truck started blowing a 18 gauge fusible link - the one that feeds the ignition switch (!!!)
I replaced the link with a Maxi Fuse hold; it'd blow a 40A then a 50A fuse there.
I replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker (Maxi sized 50A) so I would not be shut down completely.
After that, and while pawing through the wiring diagram (I really, REALLY hate intermittents!) to the vacuum solenoids (all three unplugged, it would still intermittently trip), and then the alternator (field coil is on that run without any additional fuses; plus the alternator TIC'ed when I spun it free), I finally think I've found the problem.
The Part Throttle Unlock Relay is a metal cased relay. That the base was coming out of. Allowing the 12V on the contact to bump the metal housing internally.
*facepalms*
And it's a discontinued part (4360034). But here's the interesting part - the 12V to the coil and the 12V to the contact are on the same end as the switched 12V line; the trigger wire to the coil is at the other end on a different connector.
Dodge also used a "Fog Light / Radiator Fan" relay on some vehicles; slightly different tab, and ... the two ends are swapped (right for left), but the tab for the latching connector is in the same place relative to the three high current tabs (!!!)
So I've got one of those ordered.
In the meanwhile, the cable is unplugged and I no longer get the circuit breaker tripping, then resetting on me.
(If that relay wasn't available, I'd replace the connectors to use a standard Bosch relay ... it's 18ga wire, so probably not more than 10 or 12A being pulled. A 40A Bosch relay should do fine.)
RwP
I replaced the link with a Maxi Fuse hold; it'd blow a 40A then a 50A fuse there.
I replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker (Maxi sized 50A) so I would not be shut down completely.
After that, and while pawing through the wiring diagram (I really, REALLY hate intermittents!) to the vacuum solenoids (all three unplugged, it would still intermittently trip), and then the alternator (field coil is on that run without any additional fuses; plus the alternator TIC'ed when I spun it free), I finally think I've found the problem.
The Part Throttle Unlock Relay is a metal cased relay. That the base was coming out of. Allowing the 12V on the contact to bump the metal housing internally.
*facepalms*
And it's a discontinued part (4360034). But here's the interesting part - the 12V to the coil and the 12V to the contact are on the same end as the switched 12V line; the trigger wire to the coil is at the other end on a different connector.
Dodge also used a "Fog Light / Radiator Fan" relay on some vehicles; slightly different tab, and ... the two ends are swapped (right for left), but the tab for the latching connector is in the same place relative to the three high current tabs (!!!)
So I've got one of those ordered.
In the meanwhile, the cable is unplugged and I no longer get the circuit breaker tripping, then resetting on me.
(If that relay wasn't available, I'd replace the connectors to use a standard Bosch relay ... it's 18ga wire, so probably not more than 10 or 12A being pulled. A 40A Bosch relay should do fine.)
RwP
Record Breaker
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 109
From: Va
Hey Ralph,
Glad you got it figured out. IMO plastic relays are superior to metal cased relays.... As with your case (no pun intended)
, the metal can short out, not to mention they will not be as waterproof as a sealed plastic relay.
Glad you got it figured out. IMO plastic relays are superior to metal cased relays.... As with your case (no pun intended)
, the metal can short out, not to mention they will not be as waterproof as a sealed plastic relay.
WAY to familiar with that sentiment. 
