There's a DLC connector under the hood, requires an appropriate reader to work with. If you have a 1996 (I don't remember offhand, memory says not) then for 1996 there's also the OBDII connector inside under the steering column.

For the DLC, there's a few that can work with it; but that's the main reason I bought my used MT-2500 with the proper carts and a CHRY-1 adapter (to read my Dakota).

There used to be a company named BoostButton that had an adapter, and a guy had a scanner program, that would query the DLC with a laptop and an adapter cable. Alas, he retired; PCBs are still available, but I haven't found the proper parts list to work with the PCBs. ( the SciConBase, https://oshpark.com/profiles/BoostButton/page/1 ) Use that with MPScan ( http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/sh...p?47905-MPScan ) and you have the scanner.

(He's also got boards to make our SMECs/SBECs flash programmable, and the software to handle the mechanics is available for free from the same links; alas, the data files the software needs, I haven't found yet.)

RwP

 

Yeah, I think its some chrysler specific connector, under the hood.

 

4-1/2 years ago I was flashing a Code 41...same code this new reman PCM is flashing. Back 4-1/2 years ago, I replaced the alternator. The code 41 disappeared and everything has been fine since. I guess I am assuming the voltage regulator in this new reman PCM is the problem since the alternator had been working perfectly fine prior to the reman. But I suppose it's still possible my alternator has gone out again and it's not the regulator in the PCM. In my mind, that would be HIGHLY coincidental that my alternator goes kaput at the same time I decide to get a reman. I mean, really highly coincidental. A couple questions come to mind. 1) Could the first reman (the one that would not start my truck prior to my current replacement reman) that I installed somehow have fried my alternator? 2) When a Code 41 (" An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit") is present, would that include both the alternator itself AND the regulator in the PCM and how would one know which?

Very curious.

 

You can have the alternator tested OFF the truck, to verify where the problem lies. If it tests good on the bench, PCM is at fault.

 

I guess 4-1/2 years ago I got lucky and dumbfoundly guessed right when I decided to replace the alternator because it fixed the problem. Did not know then the voltage regulator was buried in the PCM. Rather be lucky than good.

In this case, it would be next to inconceivable to believe my alternator went out at the same exact time I decided to put a new reman PCM on but I have seen crazier things in my time.

 

Co-relation does not always imply causation, alas.

Not a bad idea to get it checked.

RwP

 

good ****. Wish mine was as simple as it reads. You guys were a great help. It's like I gave my truck a prostate exam, violated every inch of the harness.
drop tank, cut holes in both trucks to recheck fuel pump. So over going over my harness that the 2nd harness I took all the way out sprayed with pin sol and a brush, air blasted, heat gun, wire dryer spray, one tiny nick of exposed on an injector feed. Absolutley no corrosion. It's just hanging in the garage now. Swapped everything, every sensor,relay, cap rotor.blah blah.
If tach jumps crank sense works. Nod coil signal flash cam sens works. Physically verified. Learned that, should have known.
Hell ignition key cylinder housing swapped. Who knows

 

OK Fellas (HeyYou and Ralph), I installed my external voltage regulator. Here is what I am getting...

14.25 - 14.40v at idle
14.45 - 14.55v at idle w/load (headlights, brights, fan)
14.50 - 14.58v 1800 rpm steady
14.45 - 14.60v 1800 rpm steady w/load

These numbers seem pretty good to me. However, I have an issue that concerns me. The dashboard voltage gauge is shaky. Fairly steady at idle but as soon as I give her some gas the needle shakes violently. What could this be? Ground? I had to cut the old ground to the alternator because it was molded in some dopey plastic thing along with the terminals. Put a new ring terminal on and reattached. Thought I did a pretty good job. Any thoughts on the shaky gauge needle???

BTW, I tapped into the cigar lighter circuit (switched) for my power feed. I used an add-a-fuse (aka, piggyback).

 

Yeah, recheck connections, see if you find anything.

 

Put the alternator ground on another stud on the alternator. Gauge needle still shakes but it is a different shake. Shakes more on idle and less when juiced up. Lights go dim/bright back and forth. Turn the fan on full blast and the headlights quit going back and forth. Whenever I turn on the headlights or the fan the needle steadies up. Also steadies up when driving (opposite of what it was).

I think I need to pull that ring terminal off the alt ground cable. Spray the cable clean with some contact spray and stick another ring terminal on it. It's a robust ring terminal and not easy to crimp. I'm using a freaking c-clamp to crimp it. It's all I have to moosh it down. Hand tools with my arthritis aint cuttin' it Geez!