93 Dakota, Crank but no start
#161
#162
I fix my vehicles because I'm cheap and don't trust mechanics. For no other reason. Truthfully, I hate working on cars and you will never see me collecting manuals for a hobby. But God bless those who do!
#163
A ground path for the case of the voltage regulator. Usually, it just grounds through one of its mounting screws/bolts. I like to run a separate wire, to a known good ground, just for giggles. (and insurance... makes REAL sure you have a good ground, and don't simply smoke the regulator.)
The following users liked this post:
bronze (05-15-2020)
#164
A ground path for the case of the voltage regulator. Usually, it just grounds through one of its mounting screws/bolts. I like to run a separate wire, to a known good ground, just for giggles. (and insurance... makes REAL sure you have a good ground, and don't simply smoke the regulator.)
#165
#166
Last edited by bronze; 05-16-2020 at 05:01 AM.
#167
OK, I checked the resistance on some ground points. I'm getting zero resistance on the factory grounding bolt on the engine block. That's the ground point my alternator is connected to. I also checked both grounding bolts on the alternator. Again, zero resistance. I saw a grounding point near my PCM on the fender wall with two ground wires on it. I assume one was for the PCM. The other I don't know. I was getting zero resistance on that point as well. So I attached my regulator ground to that point. No go. My dash gauge still has the heebie jeebies.
I can't think of anything else. You guys?? Next step is to call Alternatorman and ask him what's up with his regulator.
I can't think of anything else. You guys?? Next step is to call Alternatorman and ask him what's up with his regulator.
#169
No. Those got cut when I installed the regulator kit. They are just sitting there unattached for the moment. I got a FRM with the regulator kit and I attached the old wires to it. The purpose was to kill the CHECK ENGINE light. Didn't work so I currently have them unattached. I was told it doesn't kill the CHECK ENGINE light in 10 - 20% of the cases. Appears I fell in that category. Bring it on!
Took a ride to Chapel Hill this morning. I get on the Interstate humming along at 70 mph and that voltage gauge needle was steady as a rock. It was even steady at idle (while in gear) but that range between about 1000 - 1600 rpms is when it was shaking. Other times it shakes all the time. But it does like a load put on it. Tends to steady out under loads.
Took a ride to Chapel Hill this morning. I get on the Interstate humming along at 70 mph and that voltage gauge needle was steady as a rock. It was even steady at idle (while in gear) but that range between about 1000 - 1600 rpms is when it was shaking. Other times it shakes all the time. But it does like a load put on it. Tends to steady out under loads.
#170
Could there be some kind of problem on the power feed side? He has a 12 gauge power feed coming out of his regulator. It was too short to reach my interior fuse box so I added a couple feet (soldering the splice) of 12 gauge wire to make it thru the firewall (thru a grommet). It is attached to an Add-a-Fuse (aka, piggyback) which I plugged into my cigar lighter (15 amp fuse for the lighter). I added a 10 amp fuse for the regulator. I have since switched circuits and moved it to the radio circuit. Had no impact. I will say, that piggyback looks to be a 14 gauge wire vs the 12 gauge feed coming from the regulator.