You can find an OBDI scanner by searching. I have also seen folks who get a phone app which requires them to by a bluetooth connector from the app maker to read vehicle data. I bought a Snap On MT2500 on ebay for $300. I wanted to set the fuel sync on my 3.9 magnum with it.

 

You’re not the one turning the key in my truck. In a healthy fuel injected system you’re right, in my condition you’re wrong, because PUMPING MY GAS PEDAL GETS ENOUGH FUEL IN THE SYSTRM TO START.
i get the difference between carbonated vs. non... Actually read what I’m writing. which is why I state pumping gas with foot starts and tapping or little gas pedal load kills, and operating just the throttle I don’t get the same response. Operating throttle under the hood pumps more fuel AFTER the air ratio change. you say it does nothing but you’re wrong. I understand direct injection is way easy to flood where port (like my 95) still may flood but when the only way to start it is flooding it should give you a clue that it’s not getting the right data somewhere. When it’s the gas pedal it goes gas AND air. Just throttle will correct fuel ratio to compensate. These are basic switches. Signal, reference, ground. Short to ground in a circuit can cause in accurate measurements for the computer which can lead to faulty adjustments from the ECM.

If it’s the coolant sensor that makes sense. I’ll test that sensor and the wiring to my pump.

yeah that’s been the problem with finding a scanner. I search but can’t find early Chrysler ones with out selling an arm or leg. Look it up on line yourself if you think it’s so easy. As soon as I read the reviews and do deeper research I get no luck. Also, if you have one that works on a 95 then say what it is and stop patronizing. It wastes my time and anyone else whose curious being arrogant. Until then I’ll use my volt meter and proper wiring test procedures. Takes longer but if you don’t understand how this stuff works your scanner won’t be much help in the long run when diagnosing inaccurate codes. That live data though.... had to get without a scanner but not impossible.

 

There is no accelerator pump on your throttle body. Pumping the pedal allows more airflow while the throttle is open, and yeah, the PCM will add fuel because of the TPS reading. (but, only when it sees the engine actually turning.) You can accomplish the same thing by just stepping on the pedal lightly, and holding it there, and cranking the engine.

Stepping on gas pedal accomplishes the EXACT same thing is operating the throttle under the hood. After all, the gas pedal just pulls on a cable, that pulls on the throttle linkage.

Keep in mind, your engine has two temp sensors, one for the PCM, and one for the gauge. PCM sensor is a two wire feller, and it usually hides behind the a/c compressor, near the thermostat housing. Gauge sensor is a one wire sensor, and is usually over by the heater hose outlet, on the passenger side of the intake.

Your engine needs three things to start. Gas, Air, and spark. They need to be in the right amounts, and at the right time. Too much, or not enough of any of them, and the engine doesn't run. Since you have to step on the gas to get it to start, several things could be happening. Low fuel pressure would give you not enough gas to fire. Stepping on the pedal enriches the mixture some, to the point that it starts, but, it's still running really lean, so, no power, and it dies as soon as you put it in gear, or give it more air than it can supply fuel for, to maintain a burnable mixture. (and it stalls.)

Maybe its getting too much fuel..... if the temp sensor is bad, the PCM will think it's something to the tune of -40 degrees, and will positively DUMP fuel into the cylinders, flooding the engine. Stepping on the gas gives it enough air that it can actually attempt to burn the mixture. Let off the gas, the engine floods out, and dies. Any load on the engine, and it simply isn't running well enough to compensate for the additional load. And it dies.

Or, it's not getting enough air.... (which would be the result of a plugged up IAC port, or failed IAC) Stepping on the gas gives it more air, and if you hold your foot on the gas, it should stay running, and be driveable, until you try and stop......

So, you need to find out what your fuel pressure really is, and you need to see what temp the PCM thinks the engine is.

Very few of the above conditions will actually set a code........ Which makes it fun to diagnose.

 

Read the FAQ section. It will tell you how to get your codes using the key and watching you ck egn light.
There is also a Factory Service Manual for the 95 there.
IDK what you expect in a electronic code reader but $300 is cheap for a Snap On MT2500 and a bunch of cartridges for several vehicles or was several years ago. Pretty much any phone based code reader is going to do what the key dance will do and I have seen several that read real time info as well.

You'd do a lot better not being a dick about things. Ralph has forgotten more than most of us will ever know and he can only respond to what you say he does not read minds.

 

Several things.

1) HeyYou covered it. The gas pedal on our trucks does the exact same thing as thwapping the throttle under the hood; it's a direct mechanical linkage via a wire rope style cable.

2) HeyYou covered this also. There's no accelerator pump for your pumping the gas pedal to do anything with. WHILE STARTING - and let me emphasize - WHILE STARTING AND BEFORE ENTERING ENGINE-RUN - pumping the gas pedal does nothing save, if you go far enough, the ECU will figure out you're going wide open enough and shut the fuel injectors off. And you can get that WITHOUT pumping the gas pedal!

3) onemore94dak mentioned one choice - the MT2500 used off Ebay. If you go that route, be sure to get the Chrysler adapters and the proper power cable and the proper personality board (no, I don't know which board off hand; I just got a MT2500 myself.) I have a program named MTSCAN and an old adapter from a company named BoostButton I can use; but the guy running BoostButton got out of it three years ago, so I can't point you to that. He DOES have the PCBs available still for a roll your own; I can't advise on how easy or hard that is for you, however. (!I! haven't figured out what value goes where on it myself ... and I'm pretty damn good at diddling with electrons, having been at it over 50 years now.) So that's out - but the MT2500 is showing up on Ebay and other places quite often.

There's other scanners also; I can't point to any of them, I don't have them, don't use them, am aware they're out there. I was actually commiserating with you over the lack of readily available scanners; sorry if it came off differently.

(I have a ELM327 adapter I can use on my friend's 1996 Jeep and my stepson's 2013 Impala with apps on my cell phone - Torque Pro for scanning live data on both is my choice. That does jack squat for our Gen1s save for the 1996 owners out there, though. Le sigh. But as one guy says, "It is what it is.")

I apologize if it sounded like I was being arrogant. I've just been through the "beat the **** out of the gas pedal!" with my friend with the Jeep - I've got a $4 check valve I'm putting in his fuel line since it's the fuel pump bleeding back during power off. That'll keep him from popping that throttle linkage off (damn it, you don't have to STAND on it, Ken!!! Just do the prime dance. *sigh* No, on, not start! There's a difference! ... Yah, I'm a bit testy on it nowadays due to having to browbeat my friend into letting the computer do its job the best it can. Sorry if that frustration came out on you, wasn't needed.)

RwP

 

Well, I went out to the truck yesterday and got a different result.

I wanna start by saying I’m sorry. I was a bit of a dick and an idiot. I’ll try to stay more calm. I’ve been too on edge lately and I get too impatient for my own good sometimes. Y’all are trying to help and me acting like a snide ***** doesn’t.

I should have really considered what you wrote. I got the same results under the hood by hand as the foot pedal. Harder to repeat once warm. When I was testing the gas pedal it was cold.

For some reason I thought there was more to the pedal on this thing. My sincere apologies. My last 2 Volvos had a cable on the pedal with a sensor output to the computer.

Yeah, my Dakota doesn’t. Stubbornness precedes me. Forehead meets fist. The cable is a little more loose than it should, so it’s easier to lightly tap the *throttle* (not gas) with the pedal than under the hood, but if you do it gingerly enough.. it cuts out while cold all day. Keep up the brow beating!

Going back out with batteries for my meter this time *facepalm*, pop off the belt, alternator, compressor, and if I remember right one of the pullies and the support bracket but I think that’s just to get to the intake bolts. Vaguely remember having to be careful with the wires for the 2-wire connection when putting the support bracket back on. Check the connectors, change the main one and the secondary to the dash. Reset the computer and hope for the best. I’ll still test the suspected sensors in case I’m not getting reference or signal in my wires before checking the pcm. Please correct me if I’m wrong, I have been far from right more times than close thus far.

Also, how noisy is that damn computer supposed to be? Every time my ear rings now that computer noise is all I think about. It’s pretty high pitch with an audible signal pulse With just the key on but I’m pretty sure that’s just the computer communicating with the various active components. it’s just strange how loud it is. Should I worry?

I don’t really remember it being all too loud, but didn’t pay to much mind to it since I’ve had it, but before I wasn’t really listening. It’s a 25 year old computer and the guy I got it from didn’t seem to think it had much life left in it. three years later... and I’m in love with this thing. It looked and has been much easier working on this than my last Volvo and about half as expensive. Great little truck! I love that I can stand in the engine bay although what’s the deal with the fire wall spacing... could be worse but would be better with maybe 4 more inches lol but I digress.

 

The computer shouldn't be making any noise at all....... If it is, that's a problem.

 

well poop. Lol

so BOTH coolant sensors were completely shot. starts up how it should every time with no hesitation. Fuel pressure in-spec and no loss of prime.

but... still getting sporadic rpm gauge. Likely side effect of the computer gone bad. It down shifts into second and first now so I’m pretty freaking happy now aside from that I did notice the off draw fuse had a 20 instead of a 5. Replaced that right away. Really irritated about that. Wondering if that f’d the computer any. Also does anyone have a secondary ground off the battery negative to the cassis by drive side head lamp. Can not find it in wire diagram. I have it disconnected now and am afraid to reattach.

Ive known how to get codes via the dash and the only one to mention is 52 system rich if anyone is curious. Not going to address that quite yet. Probably my evap can, although it could be fuel sync.

sounds like the solenoid in the ecu is bad then. I need a better wire probe to confirm. My leads are to small to side probe. I can faintly hear it in the cab. Any tips i should know acquiring a new ecm?

 

De nada. It's hard to see someone's body language over the Internet, so it's hard to discern my "Teacher Pose" (yes, I've taught in the past! Does it show much?) and my "Fekkin' noob!" pose

Also, I'm going through that with that friend of mine. Today, he actually did the check list - and found out his Jeep started after the three on/count 10 /off/count 10 cycles. Right up. Just like I said.

As to it DYING while idling ... that's going to be a vacuum leak or a lack of vacuum at the appropriate time most likely. I would still check fuel pressure, make sure it's in spec (fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader on the fuel rail, check the FSM, and as been pointed out a few times - it's in the FAQ. *STERN TEACHER MODE* GO GET IT AND DOWNLOAD IT. NOW. DON'T REPLY, DON'T DO ANYTHING ELSE, JUST DOWNLOAD IT AND START READING IT. */STERN TEACHER MODE*)

As to the sound - Beats the crap outta me. I have tinnitius, and can't hear anything from the computer. I would not expect it to; but eh, your hearing <> my hearing, so ...

As a side note, I used to hate color TVs because they screamed at me at approx. 15KHz. Today, they're dead silent.

RwP

 

The additional ground wire from the battery to the chassis won't hurt anything. It may have been added at some point in the past to address some other issue.

Clear all codes, and drive it for a bit, see if anything changes. Do it this way: Disconnect battery, turn on headlights, count to 5. Turn off headlights, hook battery back up. Turn the ignition to "on" (not start), count to 10, start the engine. It should start, flare to around 1500 rpm, then settle back to around 900 or so, until the engine warms up. Then, it should idle around 700 when in gear, when fully warmed up.

See if any interesting codes come back.