Still getting 52 rich, and erratic rmp gauge like it’s not getting enough power or too much. only noticeable drop in power is shifting but only occasionally. Got it to die once going from reverse to drive.

And codes finally popped up on the dash or I guess the indication of trans or abs codes. (Abs and park brake lamp) When I did the key cycle the abs and park turned on in the middle of the 52 code which I’ve never seen. (I’ve pulled codes on this thing the past three years, the main reason I got this thing) They’re either on the whole time or not at all usually get them after driving a while. This time within 3 minutes of cold start. Anyone know if I can jump pins and get them to flash a code sequence? is that a thing on these trucks?
Back to rpm gauge...
I can here the rpm being steady but the needle will sometimes lag and make huge bounds that would make anyone cringe if the motor actually spiked like that. I cant kill it after coolant temp sensor change but shifting creates a noticeable power draw. Only killed it once shifting between reverse and drive. I’m thinking a torque converter fault. I’ll probably get one of those MT-2500’s. Bidirectional, count me in. If I had the choice though between the verus and the $10,000 it costs... I’d probably choose the verus.. A guy can dream. Can these trucks run without a crank sensor? (I.e. unplugged) I know some vehicles like a Chevy cobalt can substitute values from the cam sensor if it’s not reading one. Creates longer initial start until values are learned but that’s stepping into OD2 systems. I’m more curious than need to know. I guess I could see for my self.

Does the MT-2500 pull abs and transmission codes? Won’t bother jumping pins if so.

Just tested all connections with only key on, power signal and grounds all appear good. IAC at 12v on two pins. Cam and crank both have 8v and 5v. TPS and map both read 5v. All engine circuits appear to be in spec. I’m really thinking my problem is in my transmission now.


What all impacts the rpm gauge circuit? Crank, and torque converter, right?

not sure where to go from here. Was hoping for an obvious short to ground, missing reference but it’s all good.

what should I do now?

 

Tach is driving off the ECU based partly on the crank sensor; if that's flaking out on you, you'll get some weird responses.

HOWEVER - there's also a piggy back board on the cluster; I'd more bet that's acting up unless your engine is going batty at the same time.

There's no separate transmission controller; it's the SMEC/SBEC on all the trucks to 1996, when it became the JTEC.

I don't know on the ABS codes re the MT2500 on a 1995 - lemme pull the book out and peek.

*opens Chrysler book, looks for ABS code reading* It does not say it does, so I would guess it doesn't on a 1995.

That information may not be accurate on a later version of the manual and/or firmware, though; my book is the Fourth Edition, November 1991, for the Chryslers. If you were closer, I'd offer to test it with you.

ADDENDUM: No, it needs the crank sensor; the "cam sensor" is only used to set fuel sync instead of setting active cam events. No crank sensor, no run. It won't even turn on the ASD or fuel pump without crank signals, save for a few seconds or while cranking.

RwP

 

Got the new test gauge.

maxed out the gauge @100 psi.

is that even possible?

 

That seems a tad high..... considering pressure is supposed to be something like 39PSI..... so, either the gauge is wrong.... or, the regulator ain't doin' its job. That would certainly explain why it was flooding out......

 

Ah.

To quote a meme, "Well, there's your problem!"

From page 14-6 of the FSM, The FPR is part of the fuel pump assembly; looks like you may be needing to swap that soonest.

RwP

 

Think I would change the oil too........

 

Yup, over 100. Voltage at all injectors is 14.3 on direct power and signal wire engine running. All being command to stay open. I thought I had some injector pulse but felt no tick on them this time. Stuck my ear to my screwdriver... no tick.

hhhhhh... bad computer driver or bad wires...
who wants to take a guess?? Lol
I gonna rewatch some ScannerDanner. Seem to have forgotten what this means my self.

when, IF EVER, does the computer demand injectors to stay open?

 

Simple.

WOT and only if it's been rewritten to do that.

But at 100PSI, the injectors may simply being forced open by the pressure.

I'd fix that FIRST, then worry about the rest.

It's like complaining about the valve leaks when the water is almost 2.5 times what the valve's designed for ...

RwP

 

Yeah, this. I completely agree, address the fuel pressure problem first, and see if that doesn't solve a whole bunch of other problems.

 

You’re totally right. Thought about that after I posted and pulled off the bed before checking back here. Wanted to see if I had a kink in the line and tested it at the pump. Same result. I went looking for the receipt to that pump. I remember thinking about that dam pump the whole time...
and how much of a pain it was the first time to get to...
how it sucked this time by myself...
where am I going to put an in-line regulator...
I should probably replace the line while I’m in here...
and then it hits me...
where
the
F
is the regulator on this thing...
it’s supposed to be...
It doesn’t have one...
it should be where my fuel...
a big wrapped ho-ho of regulation...
the old one had a ho-ho...
why didn’t I see this before...
(Flashes back to putting in the new pump, “hhhmm less bulky looking”
“how am I getting this rollover valve out”
“what am I gonna do about this return line? I don’t have one... ehh cap it probably for a different vehicle”
that should’ve been my first clue..
but after that I looked into return lines and how much an new rail would be and about **** myself

Well maybe this is just a different design.. I thought..
it’s gotta be internal....
..... realizes stupidity....
..... searches for answers....

Just went over the receipt from Napa
and I noticed the part number didn’t match the one a perplexed salesman showed me today. I memorized that model number, I knew that model number but didn’t have the receipt on me. I’ve been wrong before and blew it off and didn’t think much of it at the time. He couldn’t find it so he brought up spec info on a new one just to ease his curiosity about this truck. He thought maybe I had a diesel at first and got the wrong type of gauge. When I told him what was going on, and that I wish I smelled diesel and not gas coming out of this hog, he showed me a couple new options in case the gauges were good and my pump bad...
BUT
could
my
problem
be
that I was sold a pump for a 2.5l
instead of a 3.9
???
Part number C-0406-M

my receipt clearly has 3.9l v6 on the vehicle data line of the receipt but when I search that part on their website and go through the vehicle fit checker, 2.5l is the only option...