Dumb question, but have you taken a vacuum reading? It will tell you if you have a vacuum leak, or a plugged exhaust. Either will cause stalling. Vacuum gauges are pretty cheap,

 

And with a carbon'ed intake, then I bet the plenum gasket is shot. Which can cause a MASSIVE vacuum leak; which will cause a truck to stall and not run.

RwP

 

No I have not done a vacuum reading. I don’t have a vacuum gauge. I’m on a fixed income and really can’t afford one

 

They are cheap. I just looked on Amazon, $30 for an OTC (good but pricey brand). You may be able to find one in pep boys, advance auto, or auto zone for the same or less.

Edit: Just searched on harbor freight, $15. Don't know if they have it in stores, or it you can only order it online. .

 

HF will have them in stores, and you can usually use a 20% off coupon on them.

Or.

For a bit more up front, you can do a Loan-A-Tool purchase at most big box auto parts stores; buy the right one (and they'll have it behind the counter!), and you can return it and get your money back.

RwP

 

I’m back with a question about the PCM. How do you know when or if the PCM is bad and needs to be replaced. This truck is 24 with just about everything being factory. If it isn’t dried and cracked it’s just wore out and not functioning. Everything on this truck needs to be replaced. So I’m guessing the PCM may need to be replaced as well. So I’m wanting to know how to tell if it’s seen better days or is it still a keeper

 

When it fails.

But too many "failed PCM"s are due to bad connections or not troubleshooting the inputs.

Get the factory service manual, do your testing, and see what falls out from the trouble shooting charts.

What year, which motor, and 2WD/4WD, and which transmission on your truck?

RwP

 

Not effectively.....

 

I say put on the brakes here. Stop throwing parts at it. Nothing you have said so far indicates the PCM. You have "tried" a lot of things which is normal but without really having done a diagnostic to justify it. I have a 94 and as far as I know the PCM is OE and it works fine. Ralph suggests plug and unplug any electrical connection at least 3 times to rub off the oxidation that might be interfering in a good connection. I used a spray that is supposed to clean them on my PCM and applied dielectric grease.
I really urge you to get the 1996 factory service manual from the FAQ section. It is a free download and then you will have all that the Chrysler tech will have and be in the same boat as them if you go in to a dealer because most of the guys who know the unwritten aspects of how to apply the FSM on these trucks are retired or people like the guys on here.
Edit 1 - I looked over your posts. You don't say when you list changing wires and plugs, did you also change the Cap and rotor? Are you sure you got the firing order correct when you put the wires back on? Make sure all of the wires are well seated. They can pop up on the cap or the plug sometimes if we don't get them all the way on at first.

 

Hello, okay so today I cleaned up the throttle body really good and put it together and torqued her down. Now I have crank and no spark. I don’t have a working multimeter Because one of my ends came off mine. So now I’m back to the beginning. I’m almost at wits end with this truck. It’s back to the drawing board again. C***