Hello,

Does the 92-96 Dakota with the 5.2L 2WD have inner tie rods? I was told from a shop here that they need replacing, but when I look at the service manual it doesn't appear to
show any in the diagram. It looks like the outers are directly screwed into the rack.

I'm going to have a go at this myself, just want to know before hand if anyone's replaced the inners on this vehicle and if they actually exist.

Thanks!

 

The outers screw into the inners, which screw into the rack.

I had to use the "tie rod tool" I rented from O'Reilly's to get mine out.

Also, I'd order new bellows and replace them.

If you're also doing outers, consider taking the tie rods out as a set (inner and outer, leave them set as they are) then adjust the new pair to the same length so it's close when you get it in; makes it easier to drive to the alignment shop.

In the FSM, pages 19-34 and 19-35 calls out the inner tie rod (figure 4 on page 19-34) and shows it in more detail (figure 5 on page 19-35). It doesn't show replacing it; it was part of the rack assembly at Chrysler. But they ARE available.

Yes, I've replaced the inners; I currently have some ACDelco ones on my 1988 Dakota 2WD, have about 40,000 miles on them, and have about 1/4" total slack in the steering wheel (say 5° or so) and THAT may be due to a missing set screw in my intermediate shaft (the coupler on the rack rocks slightly due to the set screw having worked out while I was driving. Yes, I'm going to replace it. With over 3/4" engagement, no, it's not coming off.)

Here's a YouTube on doing it on a 2nd Gen Dakota; however, the sequence is the same.

RwP

 

Hi Ralph,

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. For some reason I didn't notice that. I see it in the FSM now.

I have the replacement inner tie rods, but two things concern me here:

1) No installation torque I can find. Do you have this somewhere? I have a Haynes manual as well that doesn't list any installation torque.
2) There is a little note that says: "Servicing the rubber boot must be done with the steering gear removed from the vehicle". Good God, does this mean I need to remove the entire rack and pinion? Or did you manage to replace the bellows without it?

Thanks!

 

1) I used red Loktite brand thread locker on the threads and used the German gudantite on mine. That's as opposed to the UggaDugga method

2) Rack stayed on the truck, but I used some skinny 11" zip ties to fasten the inner side.The outer I left loose until I had the alignment; then I used some 4" zip ties to hold that side.

Biggest problem on the truck is getting the vent tube in and lined up. Helps if you can curse in a few other languages

RwP

 

Okay good. I found from a few sources 55 ft*lb for the inners should work.

Nice to know I don't have to take the rack off. I'd prefer it stay put truth be told. I bought new Moog bellows and they come with zip ties, so that will be the approach going forward!

I think I'm going to have many chances to learn swearing in different languages on this truck LOL!

 

I find Klingon and Ferengi good for cursing at a car personally ...

RwP

 

I deal with a lot of Russian truck drivers and I've found that Russian is a good language to be rude in and quite satisfying when you use it to cuss. Responding in Russian will also stop a driver getting snotty with you.

 

Id be interesting in hearing some Russian cuss words. The driving where I am is atrocious and Id like to sound ferocious!

 

Please keep that conversation to Private messages.

 

If you do, CC me on it

RwP