That sucks.

You may need to order the connectors, and replace the connectors on the current wiring.

I'd also, AS SOON AS IT WORKS, add a relay harness for the headlights, get that current OUT of that connector!

Alas, they don't sell a harness for our lights as is; you can find a 9003 type harness, and use an adapter to plug into a 4666 plug to adapt to 9003/H4 base.

My Hella conversion housings use 9003/H4 bulbs, for instance; they're a LOT better than the 4666s I tried when I bought the car.

RwP

 

Hi Ralph,

The harness you posted should work for our lights because you can just swap pins for our headlights 9007/9004. So thanks for that. After fixing the bulkhead situation I will go for a harness so the problem doesn’t happen again.

Initially trying to find that bulkhead connector... not so easy to find... my thought now is that the low amperage points all look good... the 6 lower high amperage ones are toast though. So my idea is clip them off on both sides and bypass the bulkhead connector entirely for those through a new hole and grommet. I’ve done that for car stereo stuff in the past.

I sort of like that this is what my problem is because it’s telling me that entire L1 splice point was being loaded down which explains the horn not working too. So hopefully the fix kills lots of birds with one stone...

So I am on the fence about trying to replace this whole bulkhead (on both sides) or just do the bypass and move on.... argh.

leaning towards a bypass....

Thoughts?

One final question from reading your Mopar link...
How can I tell if my current headlamps draw more amperage than what the factory would have?? Was reading these problems can also start because of the combination of wiring already running close to amp capacity and changing to stronger bulbs than originally specified.

 

Take a look and see what wattage bulbs are installed. That is what determines amp draw.

Think I would just go for the bypass. Finding those connectors anywhere other than a junkyard is going to be pretty much impossible. Likely not something that gets replaced very often, if ever..... so, no market for folks that would consider producing them.

 

Best you could do is find the connectors INSIDE the housings, and replace them.

If your truck is an automatic, there's this nice grommet in the firewall already where the manual clutch hydraulics would have been. I forget the size; I just drilled a small hole a hair bit smaller than the wire and poked the wire through for my subwoofer. Will do the same for another feed I'm doing into the cab from my auxillary fuse block I added.

RwP

 

Yep I found that grommet and opened her up a little bit, halfway through the bypass surgery already, LOL.

I don’t like how that blade connection has so many amps running through it. I will eventually do a headlight relay harness but I just need to get to inspection for now!!!

Thank you again for all of your help. Not out of the woods yet but hopefully close to home...!

 

You can also pick up WeatherPack(tm) and identical (not (tm) ) connectors for that; I'd opt for that, and put the connector OUTSIDE in the engine bay.

Which is what I'm doing for some of the wiring ...

RwP

 

So now I have:

Horn!
Headlights!
Running lights!

All 4 hazards work, but brake lights don’t work from the pedal. They do work as part of hazards and turn signals...

Switch most likely culprit??

Thanks for your help!

 

Check 12V at the switch with the pedal up; the side that doesn't have 12V, see if it gets 12V when the pedal is pressed.

Then check at the MFS.

As part cannon, I'd give 50/50 on MFS or brake on/off switch.

RwP

 

So.... it’s the brake light switch on the pedal. Jumped the pins on the connector from the truck and got lights!

Now the fun is getting that rascal out of there...!

 

Well the new switch did the trick! Thanks to all for your help!