La swap in 87 dakota
#1
La swap in 87 dakota
I’ve been building a 360 small block La. I have heard that pusher fans are all I need without a clutch fan? If I build mounts will I have to build them an inch back and move the trans mount? If anyone has done the la swap in a short nose 87-90 let me know what had to be done.
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Moparnewb (08-17-2021)
#3
#4
that’s a better plan and all but I’ve already been building a la block and I don’t exactly wanna sink more money into more engines. My uncle is a professional fabricator/ mechanic so I’m sure he could make mounts
#5
Going from memory........ Member Robertmee tried this swap with standard V-belt pulleys. The pulley was about 5/8 inch into the radiator. He ended up swapping to a 92-96 front end.
Do a search under his name , robertmee, also, ragged89, and my user name. We have all posted a lot of info. And pictures on V8 swaps.....
Look forward to following your build. And if you don't mind, tell us more about your build...... Engine details, two or four wheel drive, and transmission.
Good luck!
Do a search under his name , robertmee, also, ragged89, and my user name. We have all posted a lot of info. And pictures on V8 swaps.....
Look forward to following your build. And if you don't mind, tell us more about your build...... Engine details, two or four wheel drive, and transmission.
Good luck!
#6
and transmission.
Good luck![/QUOTE]
So it’s an 87 that my uncle got for dirt cheap with a blown 3.9. An old guy had it for a long time and the last few years a kid owned it who put gas in and drove. It blew up from not checking his other fluids. It’s fairly rust free for a Canadian truck. It’s rwd long bed. I plan on doing front bushings and painting parts of the frame and front end parts. Not a show truck but a nice truck to drive. My motor is a 1987 360 la block. It was supposed to be a small cam and gasket set. Turned into a full machine shop extravaganza. Bored 30 over and now I need some pistons. I’d like something in the 9:1 range so I can run cheap gas. That’s it so far. Parts are just so backed up
Good luck![/QUOTE]
So it’s an 87 that my uncle got for dirt cheap with a blown 3.9. An old guy had it for a long time and the last few years a kid owned it who put gas in and drove. It blew up from not checking his other fluids. It’s fairly rust free for a Canadian truck. It’s rwd long bed. I plan on doing front bushings and painting parts of the frame and front end parts. Not a show truck but a nice truck to drive. My motor is a 1987 360 la block. It was supposed to be a small cam and gasket set. Turned into a full machine shop extravaganza. Bored 30 over and now I need some pistons. I’d like something in the 9:1 range so I can run cheap gas. That’s it so far. Parts are just so backed up
#7
So it’s an 87 that my uncle got for dirt cheap with a blown 3.9. An old guy had it for a long time and the last few years a kid owned it who put gas in and drove. It blew up from not checking his other fluids. It’s fairly rust free for a Canadian truck. It’s rwd long bed. I plan on doing front bushings and painting parts of the frame and front end parts. Not a show truck but a nice truck to drive. My motor is a 1987 360 la block. It was supposed to be a small cam and gasket set. Turned into a full machine shop extravaganza. Bored 30 over and now I need some pistons. I’d like something in the 9:1 range so I can run cheap gas. That’s it so far. Parts are just so backed up[/QUOTE]
What heads are you using? With sufficient quench and a good curve, you can run better than 9:1 on pump gas, even the only-fairly-expensive stuff (note: I grew up during 25 cent US price wars; NONE of today's gasoline is "cheap" to me ... )
While doing the front bushings, I'd personally recommend the Prothane Black poly bushings; I've got over 250,000 miles on my Energy Suspension Reds, but Prothane Black has graphite in the mix to keep the poly "EEKook" down without having to silicone spray every time you open the hood.
Don't forget the greaseable sway bar bushings!
Use the good ball joints; cheap crap is cheap crap, but there's nothing wrong with picking one of three or four brands / product lines you can get inexpensively. (I say that because Moog has both the cheap crap and the "Well, it's not as good as it used to be" lines, for instance.)
RwP
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#9
I'll add that the front of the frame, under the cab, is boxed; it may be worth while to pull the cab and get it media blasted and properly painted and "fogged" to keep it from rusting out up front.
(That'll be the perfect time to work on the motor mounts too; that way you can weld them up before it's painted and fogged, and you'll be in great shape rust-prevention-wise.)
RwP
(That'll be the perfect time to work on the motor mounts too; that way you can weld them up before it's painted and fogged, and you'll be in great shape rust-prevention-wise.)
RwP
#10