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Aww, come on! You're not gonna go down without a fight are you?
Seriously, that is my logic. But no one knows more than I that I could be dead wrong. And this, my friend, is exactly why I am here. By all means, elaborate on your thinking that calipers last a lifetime. I'm here to learn.
Ok.
There really isn't much to go wrong with calipers. There is one seal on the piston, and then the banjo bolt for the line. If it isn't leaking, or seized, I personally, don't see any reason to replace them. You are replacing the soft lines as well, so, doing a thorough flush of the brake system will purge any ugly fluid from the existing calipers, and it's the dirt and moisture in the old fluid that usually does in the caliper. Of course, if the bleeders are seized, or break off.... that's another story. But, I gotta admit, I have drilled out the broken ones, and simply replace them as well.
Isn't your truck 2WD? If so, those 4WD rotors won't fit.
Remember, 2WD uses an integral hub; 4WD uses a separate hub/bearing assembly.
RwP
You are correct! I went back to my post and deleted that question because I discovered they were 4WD. Sorry, my mistake. Also I'm glad you clarified on the integral vs non-integral hub. I have been thinking all along that my 2WD hub was separate (non-integral). Wrong again! It was throwing me off as I was scanning thru these rotors on Amazon and Rock Auto. The Bendix version for the 2WD rotor is p/n 1578 (link below). I have a favorable impression of Bendix....been around forever. Seen it in industrial applications, etc.. Any feelings about Bendix on your end?
Also looking at the DFs you mentioned. $10 more per rotor. Having no experience with DF I couldn't possibly know if it's worth it or any better/worse than Bendix. The pix on Rock Auto aren't particularly good. Cannot see clip configuration on their $125 rotor/pad package. Plus those are the ABS rotors with the sensor ring. You could very well be right that they should still work on 2WD ABS. I wouldn't have a clue. Truthfully, I'm feeling a little more comfortable with the Bendix rotors unless you've had some negative experience with them. I'd be interested in knowing.
I WOULD consider masking / prepping / painting the non-rotor portion of the center, though. Don't need to, but a rusty center isn't as nice to look at as a painted center.
No need for glossy; I'm looking to keep it from rusting, not win a concours
There really isn't much to go wrong with calipers. There is one seal on the piston, and then the banjo bolt for the line. If it isn't leaking, or seized, I personally, don't see any reason to replace them. You are replacing the soft lines as well, so, doing a thorough flush of the brake system will purge any ugly fluid from the existing calipers, and it's the dirt and moisture in the old fluid that usually does in the caliper. Of course, if the bleeders are seized, or break off.... that's another story. But, I gotta admit, I have drilled out the broken ones, and simply replace them as well.
See, I'm glad you put up a fight. It forces me to think it thru. And I could save a little dough (not to mention it's not a killer job to have to go back and replace calipers if I had to). You're right, there really isn't much to a caliper when you break it down. A cup with a seal on the end stuck in a casting. I have to say, my calipers are dusty/dirty but they are not rusty. A can of brake cleaner and a toothbrush would make them look new again. I did not notice anything wrong with the seal when I had the calipers off the rotor the other day. My truck is garage-kept and I live in NC where there is little/no snow, nothing to excessively rot them. I have no brake fluid loss or leakage anywhere so I suspect there is no piston pitting. I have seen some pretty nasty looking calipers on vehicles before. They almost look like cave formations growing around the rotor. Blobs of rust. Disgusting! I have none of that on mine. Like I say, just dusty and a little greasy. Can I crack the bleeder to make sure it doesn't break off without introducing air into the system? I don't think I can.
I WOULD consider masking / prepping / painting the non-rotor portion of the center, though. Don't need to, but a rusty center isn't as nice to look at as a painted center.
No need for glossy; I'm looking to keep it from rusting, not win a concours
RwP
Perfect! Looks like I'll be placing my first order with RockAuto. And good pointer on the paint. Quick n easy to do.
See, I'm glad you put up a fight. It forces me to think it thru. And I could save a little dough (not to mention it's not a killer job to have to go back and replace calipers if I had to). You're right, there really isn't much to a caliper when you break it down. A cup with a seal on the end stuck in a casting. I have to say, my calipers are dusty/dirty but they are not rusty. A can of brake cleaner and a toothbrush would make them look new again. I did not notice anything wrong with the seal when I had the calipers off the rotor the other day. My truck is garage-kept and I live in NC where there is little/no snow, nothing to excessively rot them. I have no brake fluid loss or leakage anywhere so I suspect there is no piston pitting. I have seen some pretty nasty looking calipers on vehicles before. They almost look like cave formations growing around the rotor. Blobs of rust. Disgusting! I have none of that on mine. Like I say, just dusty and a little greasy. Can I crack the bleeder to make sure it doesn't break off without introducing air into the system? I don't think I can.
Sure. Gravity will tend to force fluid out, not allow air in. I like to soak the bleeders with PB Blaster several times for a couple days (and tapping on them lightly with a small hammer, if they are really bad) before trying to crack 'em loose. I also like to use a six-point deep well socket on them to get them to initially break loose, then use a wrench while actually bleeding them.
Sure. Gravity will tend to force fluid out, not allow air in. I like to soak the bleeders with PB Blaster several times for a couple days (and tapping on them lightly with a small hammer, if they are really bad) before trying to crack 'em loose. I also like to use a six-point deep well socket on them to get them to initially break loose, then use a wrench while actually bleeding them.
Excelente! I'll try it. And if they don't break off then you saved me $75. Oh, I will have to get some crush washers. Ralph linked me to a source. My slide bolts looked perfectly fine and I suspect the banjo bolt will be fine too. And if I were Ralph I would paint them and plug/replug them in 4 or 5 times.
I'm getting pretty disgusted with myself. I'm convinced I am reading these application charts carefully but I am not! Wasted my time (and Ralph's) looking at 4WD rotors. Now discovered the Thermoquiets (the A's) are also for 4WD. The non-A's are for RWD. Sorry Ralph for wasting your time. I'm usually better than this. Age is creeping in apparently.
Ralph, that J3236434 crush washer says it doesn't fit on my truck according to a few application charts. Not sure where you got that #. I went to the 1990 - 93 Dodge parts catalog and it says # 6030084 is what I need. I'm guessing it doesn't make a rat's *** difference but my guessing hasn't worked out well for me lately. I about faint when I see some of these washers cost anywhere from $8 to $28 EACH!! Seriously? I like your $1.47 ones if they work. As another option, see link below.
Drum L/R (Bendix PDR0597)
Wheel Cylinders (ACDelco Pro 18E1222)
Brake Hose, Center
Brake Hardware Kit (all the springs and various crap)
Shoe Adjuster Kit (adjustment and emerg brake parts)
Brake Pad Set (Wagner PAB538R)
QUESTION SECTION
1. Do you see if I'm missing anything?
2. I'm assuming I have 9" brakes (vs 10") but it scares me that I'm assuming this. How do I find what I have (i.e., what am I measuring)? I'm guessing the large majority of Dakotas are 9".
3. I found some Wagner Thermoquiet pads (wasn't easy). They are riveted (vs bonded). I have no problems with riveted. Do you? I suspect they'll let me know when they're shot.
4. See photo of left side/top axle below. More questions after the photo.
#1 is the brake hose
#2 brake line going to left rear
#3 brake line going to right rear
#4 Goes up to leftside frame rail. About 2 foot' long and it just stops. Don't know what this is. Sensor of some kind maybe. ABS. Beats me.
#5 Electrical cable that happens to piggyback on the brake hose for a little ways. One end plugs into the rear diff while the other end plugs into a connector coming out of a wiring harness inside the frame rail that I assume comes from the front of the truck somewhere. Not sure what it is.
QUESTIONS ABOUT PHOTO
1. What in the hell is #4?
2. What in the hell is #5
3. How the hell is the end of the brake hose (the block) mounted...what holds it in place?
4. The outer protective sleeve on #5 is crumbling apart and exposing the wires inside. I should replace or repair. If you answered Question 2 I can look it up and hope it's available somewhere. Otherwise, I'll have to repair it. Thoughts?
10-07-2021, 09:19 AM
Of course, if the bleeders are seized, or break off.... that's another story. But, I gotta admit, I have drilled out the broken ones, and simply replace them as well. 
