Brakes
#61
10-07-2021, 09:37 PM
Champion
OK - I don't know where I got that number from; must have crossed my eyes or looked at something besides the N1 brakes.
If it helps, this listing 06030084 - Dodge Gasket, washer. Brake hose. Front, mounting | Libertyville IL (mymoparpart.com) describes the washer so you can match it.
On the rear axle.
Easiest way to find out what size brakes you have is to look through the wheel, or to pull the wheel so you can see the drum.
If it has MAX DIA 9.xxx then it's 9", if MAX DIA 10.000 it's 10". If, however, it's metricfied - if it's more than 250mm, it's 10", if less, 9". (Not sure how much over it can be offhand; but 10" is 254mm so ... and 9" is 228.6mm . It'll be larger than that, to allow for wear, but still.)
On the back axle itself - you have #1, #2, and #3 right. #4 is the differential vent; it just bolts into the axle to give the fumes from the lube in the diff warming up a place to vent that's above water level when you run into puddles.
And, it's what holds the block in place. It's basically a brass pipe with a hex head on the rubber end.
Hint: Break the wheel lines free FIRST before you take it out; it'll hold the block in place, then when you remove the vent hose, the block and hose come free (the block is part of the hose assembly); start the inverted flare fittings before bolting it down, but don't tighten them until the vent hose is snug; tighten them, then tighten down the vent hose. There's a rivet in the cross member above the rear axle and a clip on the hose; the hose clip clips onto the crossmember and the rivet keeps it from being loose.
#5 is the ABS sensor into the rear axle.
RwP
If it helps, this listing 06030084 - Dodge Gasket, washer. Brake hose. Front, mounting | Libertyville IL (mymoparpart.com) describes the washer so you can match it.
On the rear axle.
Easiest way to find out what size brakes you have is to look through the wheel, or to pull the wheel so you can see the drum.
If it has MAX DIA 9.xxx then it's 9", if MAX DIA 10.000 it's 10". If, however, it's metricfied - if it's more than 250mm, it's 10", if less, 9". (Not sure how much over it can be offhand; but 10" is 254mm so ... and 9" is 228.6mm . It'll be larger than that, to allow for wear, but still.)
On the back axle itself - you have #1, #2, and #3 right. #4 is the differential vent; it just bolts into the axle to give the fumes from the lube in the diff warming up a place to vent that's above water level when you run into puddles.
And, it's what holds the block in place. It's basically a brass pipe with a hex head on the rubber end.
Hint: Break the wheel lines free FIRST before you take it out; it'll hold the block in place, then when you remove the vent hose, the block and hose come free (the block is part of the hose assembly); start the inverted flare fittings before bolting it down, but don't tighten them until the vent hose is snug; tighten them, then tighten down the vent hose. There's a rivet in the cross member above the rear axle and a clip on the hose; the hose clip clips onto the crossmember and the rivet keeps it from being loose.
#5 is the ABS sensor into the rear axle.
RwP
#62
10-08-2021, 07:24 AM
OK - I don't know where I got that number from; must have crossed my eyes or looked at something besides the N1 brakes.
If it helps, this listing 06030084 - Dodge Gasket, washer. Brake hose. Front, mounting | Libertyville IL (mymoparpart.com) describes the washer so you can match it.
On the rear axle.
Easiest way to find out what size brakes you have is to look through the wheel, or to pull the wheel so you can see the drum.
If it has MAX DIA 9.xxx then it's 9", if MAX DIA 10.000 it's 10". If, however, it's metricfied - if it's more than 250mm, it's 10", if less, 9". (Not sure how much over it can be offhand; but 10" is 254mm so ... and 9" is 228.6mm . It'll be larger than that, to allow for wear, but still.)
On the back axle itself - you have #1, #2, and #3 right. #4 is the differential vent; it just bolts into the axle to give the fumes from the lube in the diff warming up a place to vent that's above water level when you run into puddles.
And, it's what holds the block in place. It's basically a brass pipe with a hex head on the rubber end.' or 10".
Hint: Break the wheel lines free FIRST before you take it out; it'll hold the block in place, then when you remove the vent hose, the block and hose come free (the block is part of the hose assembly); start the inverted flare fittings before bolting it down, but don't tighten them until the vent hose is snug; tighten them, then tighten down the vent hose. There's a rivet in the cross member above the rear axle and a clip on the hose; the hose clip clips onto the crossmember and the rivet keeps it from being loose.
#5 is the ABS sensor into the rear axle.
RwP
If it helps, this listing 06030084 - Dodge Gasket, washer. Brake hose. Front, mounting | Libertyville IL (mymoparpart.com) describes the washer so you can match it.
On the rear axle.
Easiest way to find out what size brakes you have is to look through the wheel, or to pull the wheel so you can see the drum.
If it has MAX DIA 9.xxx then it's 9", if MAX DIA 10.000 it's 10". If, however, it's metricfied - if it's more than 250mm, it's 10", if less, 9". (Not sure how much over it can be offhand; but 10" is 254mm so ... and 9" is 228.6mm . It'll be larger than that, to allow for wear, but still.)
On the back axle itself - you have #1, #2, and #3 right. #4 is the differential vent; it just bolts into the axle to give the fumes from the lube in the diff warming up a place to vent that's above water level when you run into puddles.
And, it's what holds the block in place. It's basically a brass pipe with a hex head on the rubber end.' or 10".
Hint: Break the wheel lines free FIRST before you take it out; it'll hold the block in place, then when you remove the vent hose, the block and hose come free (the block is part of the hose assembly); start the inverted flare fittings before bolting it down, but don't tighten them until the vent hose is snug; tighten them, then tighten down the vent hose. There's a rivet in the cross member above the rear axle and a clip on the hose; the hose clip clips onto the crossmember and the rivet keeps it from being loose.
#5 is the ABS sensor into the rear axle.
RwP
Interesting about that vent hose coming off the diff. I would never have guessed. I think I'll just tape up that speed sensor cable nicely and slip some split loom over it then cable tie it to the new brake hose (vs replacing). The individual wires inside are very clean but the outer sleeve crumbles easily when touched. Appreciate the removal/installation tips on that brake hose. It helps.
So now I have all the parts n tools ID'd so I can start ordering them. I'm finding prices at RockAuto are significantly less than even Amazon Prime...even with shipping. Now I am going to return to your original posting (that you initially put on the balljoint thread) and ask you a few questions in a separate post about some items you had on there. Thanks, Ralph!
#63
10-08-2021, 08:47 AM
If you're doing it all - and don't have ABS! - you can just bleed the brakes down, replace the calipers/wheel cylinders/hoses, and when re-assembled, use the pneumatic style bleeder to suck the fluid through.
You'll still get a chunk of brownish fluid, then finally the new clear fluid. (Bonus points if you can find colored fluid, ideally in a bright neon color ... but technically that's illegal, drats!)
I bought a gallon of synthetic DOT3/DOT4 fluid (Johnson's Brand) to do my truck; even after the blowout, I'm still finishing it up.
You don't want to leave brake fluid too long after opening the container; it's so hydroscopic that you'll end up with something useless, so the gallon may be overkill for you. If not, well, just remember to dispose of it about a month or two after you finish up the bleeding and everything's solid.
I had to replace my rear wheel cylinders also, on a sudden call. Turns out new ones use 7mm bleeders, not 1/4" bleeders or 5/16" (8mm) bleeders. I had to order a 7mm bleeder wrench to do it right; might want to get one to hand before you start, or if you're replacing the wheel cylinders, verify bleeder size before cracking the system open. That's an "Ooops!" on my part, and a pain; the 7mm deep throat socket did the job, but you can't use it while the pneumatic is still sucking, and I bet I still have some air in the lines.
OH! I did find out, don't use any grease on the rubber fitting - it does NOT help it seal better! Instead, it helps it pop off on its own ... Oops.
RwP
You'll still get a chunk of brownish fluid, then finally the new clear fluid. (Bonus points if you can find colored fluid, ideally in a bright neon color ... but technically that's illegal, drats!)
I bought a gallon of synthetic DOT3/DOT4 fluid (Johnson's Brand) to do my truck; even after the blowout, I'm still finishing it up.
You don't want to leave brake fluid too long after opening the container; it's so hydroscopic that you'll end up with something useless, so the gallon may be overkill for you. If not, well, just remember to dispose of it about a month or two after you finish up the bleeding and everything's solid.
I had to replace my rear wheel cylinders also, on a sudden call. Turns out new ones use 7mm bleeders, not 1/4" bleeders or 5/16" (8mm) bleeders. I had to order a 7mm bleeder wrench to do it right; might want to get one to hand before you start, or if you're replacing the wheel cylinders, verify bleeder size before cracking the system open. That's an "Ooops!" on my part, and a pain; the 7mm deep throat socket did the job, but you can't use it while the pneumatic is still sucking, and I bet I still have some air in the lines.
OH! I did find out, don't use any grease on the rubber fitting - it does NOT help it seal better! Instead, it helps it pop off on its own ... Oops.
RwP
1. Start with your first sentence. I definitely want to use that pneumatic bleeder gizmo...how convenient (and thorough)! However, you alerted me about ABS. As we learned, I have RWAL. Does this mean I cannot use a pneumatic bleeder? Want to be sure I'm understanding you.
2. I have one of those two-cap brake fluid reservoirs. I'm curious how that works. I guess I always thought that was a "Just in case" design. If the fronts go out I still have backs and/or visa versa. When bleeding fronts or backs does it matter which opening I'm adding the fresh brake fluid to?
3. I have one flare nut wrench. LMAO! 3/8" on one end, 7/16" on the other. I think I inherited it from my father or I bought it decades ago when I did a brake job. I'm also pretty sure my brake line ends are SAE and one (or both) of these sizes...thinking 7/16" I don't think I need to buy flare nut wrenches. I'm figuring the bleeders on the new wheel cylinders are metric but I can use standard wrenches on those. Am I thinking correctly here? Also, the wrench head is fat and the smaller/smoother tube area leading into the fitting is too narrow for the flare wrench to fit in without interfering with that outer corrugated brake line casing. I need to make some more room by moving or removing a little of that corrugated casing. Any tips here before I wreck something?
4. You mentioned on a different post to consider replacing the master cylinder and booster. I'm not planning to do that. It falls under the "While you're at it" category which I almost always subscribe to when I'm replacing with new high quality parts, or if what I'm working on is buried and I have it dug out anyway, or it's inexpensive, etc.. But then there is the "If it aint broke, don't fix it" category when your only option is using reman parts. I'm assuming that is what I'd be using with master cylinder/booster replacement. As you saw with my discussion with Hey You on calipers, I can be talked out of remans without much of a fight (if it can be avoided). Don't need to tell you about the uncertainty surrounding remans. Some are great, some are not. All this said, I do like to learn. Is that booster hard to remove/install? It looks like it is mounted to the firewall which could be a PITA, no?
#64
10-08-2021, 09:06 AM
Champion
1) The FSM says it's not a problem; but you may have to bleed ABS separately.
2) The top part of the reservoir is in common; there's a divider dam about 1/3 to 1/2 up from the bottom. No, it doesn't matter which side, but I move the refiller to the side that I'm working with for your cousin and mine, Justin Case.
3) Make sure you use the right size deep throat socket that fits the bleeder to pop it free; I'd get the bleeder screw wrenches (not the same thing as a flare nut wrench!) to make it easier to open and close while the bleeder's running.
4) It's mostly due to age, and I Do NOT Want To Find Out I Should Have By A Sudden Stop In The Back Of A Tanker Truck ....
And yes it is; four studs; the nuts are under the dash, around the linkage rod, at the top of the brake pedal assembly.
RwP
2) The top part of the reservoir is in common; there's a divider dam about 1/3 to 1/2 up from the bottom. No, it doesn't matter which side, but I move the refiller to the side that I'm working with for your cousin and mine, Justin Case.
3) Make sure you use the right size deep throat socket that fits the bleeder to pop it free; I'd get the bleeder screw wrenches (not the same thing as a flare nut wrench!) to make it easier to open and close while the bleeder's running.
4) It's mostly due to age, and I Do NOT Want To Find Out I Should Have By A Sudden Stop In The Back Of A Tanker Truck ....
And yes it is; four studs; the nuts are under the dash, around the linkage rod, at the top of the brake pedal assembly.
RwP
#65
10-08-2021, 09:36 AM
1) The FSM says it's not a problem; but you may have to bleed ABS separately.
2) The top part of the reservoir is in common; there's a divider dam about 1/3 to 1/2 up from the bottom. No, it doesn't matter which side, but I move the refiller to the side that I'm working with for your cousin and mine, Justin Case.
3) Make sure you use the right size deep throat socket that fits the bleeder to pop it free; I'd get the bleeder screw wrenches (not the same thing as a flare nut wrench!) to make it easier to open and close while the bleeder's running.
4) It's mostly due to age, and I Do NOT Want To Find Out I Should Have By A Sudden Stop In The Back Of A Tanker Truck ....
And yes it is; four studs; the nuts are under the dash, around the linkage rod, at the top of the brake pedal assembly.
RwP
2) The top part of the reservoir is in common; there's a divider dam about 1/3 to 1/2 up from the bottom. No, it doesn't matter which side, but I move the refiller to the side that I'm working with for your cousin and mine, Justin Case.
3) Make sure you use the right size deep throat socket that fits the bleeder to pop it free; I'd get the bleeder screw wrenches (not the same thing as a flare nut wrench!) to make it easier to open and close while the bleeder's running.
4) It's mostly due to age, and I Do NOT Want To Find Out I Should Have By A Sudden Stop In The Back Of A Tanker Truck ....
And yes it is; four studs; the nuts are under the dash, around the linkage rod, at the top of the brake pedal assembly.
RwP
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RalphP (10-08-2021)
#69
10-09-2021, 11:11 AM
