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That's the anti-sway or stabilizer bar end link, yes. Replace that end link and consider new bushings.
Like most, if the front end is sitting level, AND you do it carefully, it's not hard.
If one wheel is up and one is down, you'll be cursing in multiple languages
What I did, was to start one side but leave it loose; then thread the other side through, tighten it, and go back and tighten the first one. (First one I just got the nut all the way on, no more).
This allowed me to shift it up and down to clear the second one.
I used the Energy Suspension greaseable bushings and ES end links - that was over 200,000 miles ago, and they're still in great shape.
(Then again, I lube them every time I do an oil and filter change - the bushings, that is.)
As to a spring compressor - not if you don't take the shock out and don't do the inner bushings. Leave the shock on to do the lower ball joint; then do the upper with the control arm in the truck. That way no need to worry.
I'd put new shocks front and back on your list for later, though; unless you know they're in great shape. Even the KYB Monotube Gas-A-Just shocks are under $160 if you shop Amazon for them.
Just ... don't get the wrong ones. I accidently ordered the 4WD shocks first time; there's a digit difference between front 2WD, front 4WD, rear 2WD, and rear 4WD (the four numbers are sequential, but alas, not 2WD/2WD but front/front sequential ... le sigh.)
My Ranchos rode smoother at first, but they're already proving incapable of handling Louisiana roads after under 40,000 miles; I'll be going back to Gas-A-Justs in a few months or so.
RwP
You know, searching for these sway bar end links on Amazon I'm not finding any that are greaseable. They're all pre-filled with grease, no zerks that I can see. The ones I have on my Dakota now are non-serviceable. I'll have to look up those ES links you mentioned. Thanks for the tips. I do plan on lifting the front end up...both wheels equally.
I guess I was thinking the ball joints on my '93 were riveted on. I looked at them yesterday and I am wrong. They are pressed in. I think they riveted them not long after the '93. Thinking there would be a snap ring somewhere (no, maybe not). Guess I'll have to get one of those press tools. Rent/borrow from parts store maybe. Probably wont have all the sizes I need and will have to MacGyver it. These jobs never seem to go without a hitch. I welcome any tips n tricks.
The new ones will thread in also. However, several folks are having problems with the aftermarket ball joints being a bit loose. My ProForged and my last previoius Raybestos Professional Grades went right in slick as snot (Raybestos has dropped them; they now have to be bought as ACDelco Professional Grade.)
Proforged is now owned by Holley; they list 101-10127 for the uppers, and 101-10085 for the lowers. Parts are made in Taiwan, for what it's worth (personally, I think that beats China, but eh.)
The ACDelco parts were made by Spicer/DANA and are still, but Spicer doesn't sell them anymore as far as I can tell. Not at retail anyway.
Moog has two quality levels; skip the cheap Chinesium ones, get the higher quality and more expensive ones if you go Moog.
The new ones will thread in also. However, several folks are having problems with the aftermarket ball joints being a bit loose. My ProForged and my last previoius Raybestos Professional Grades went right in slick as snot (Raybestos has dropped them; they now have to be bought as ACDelco Professional Grade.)
Proforged is now owned by Holley; they list 101-10127 for the uppers, and 101-10085 for the lowers. Parts are made in Taiwan, for what it's worth (personally, I think that beats China, but eh.)
The ACDelco parts were made by Spicer/DANA and are still, but Spicer doesn't sell them anymore as far as I can tell. Not at retail anyway.
Moog has two quality levels; skip the cheap Chinesium ones, get the higher quality and more expensive ones if you go Moog.
RwP
OMG! You are so right! What am I thinking?? I even have the threaded ball joint on my wish list. DUH! Now you know why I think out loud on this forum...so experienced people can straighten out my dumbass before I do something stupid. Here is a link to the upper ball joint on my wish list. Do you think this will be a nice fit or should I look for the Proforged?
And yes, I will need to upsize to a 3/4" drive. Thinking I'd prefer a 3/4" breaker bar vs the 1/2 - 3/4 adapter. That ball joint will likely need all the robustness I can get (including a cheater bar).
That's what I used last time; I was trying ProForged to, well, be able to say if it was a valid alternative.
ACDelco Professional Grade is good stuff for the most part.
Heh. Since the ball joints were probably original on my Dakota when I did the first front end in ... 2012? ... it took two mech and a 1050lb/ft impact to back them out. Luckily a local shop had that. Unluckily for me, they did flat rate; so that was about $250 to get them out and the new ones in.
Suggestion: Use some lock tite on the ball joints when you put them in. Not only to hold, but also to lubricate and seal the threads so you can take it apart easier in another 100,000 or so miles.
That's what I used last time; I was trying ProForged to, well, be able to say if it was a valid alternative.
ACDelco Professional Grade is good stuff for the most part.
Heh. Since the ball joints were probably original on my Dakota when I did the first front end in ... 2012? ... it took two mech and a 1050lb/ft impact to back them out. Luckily a local shop had that. Unluckily for me, they did flat rate; so that was about $250 to get them out and the new ones in.
Suggestion: Use some lock tite on the ball joints when you put them in. Not only to hold, but also to lubricate and seal the threads so you can take it apart easier in another 100,000 or so miles.
RwP
I hope there's not a next time.
I'm gonna get a cheap Harbor Freight 3/4" breaker bar for this job. I'll start soaking that thing a couple days ahead. Got my cheater bar. I have one thing going for me. The truck is garage-kept and believe it or not the crud n rust isn't too bad. Knock on wood. I'm always thinking how fortunate I am when I yank stuff off that truck thinking it was far less combative than I anticipated. I hope I don't have to call in the cavalry.
Which loc tite? The "medium" stuff (forget the color)?
Yep, the medium; don't want it for the thread locking as much as the thread filling to keep it from oxidizing in there.
Well, when I redid it, a 3/4" Hazard Fraught - err, Harbor Freight - breaker and 365 lb fatboi was enough to crank them out and back in so there's that.
(Yes, I expect a next time; I figure 100,000 to 125,000 miles per front end rebuild to keep it tight and working right. YMMV natch.)
3524841[/url]]Yep, the medium; don't want it for the thread locking as much as the thread filling to keep it from oxidizing in there.
Well, when I redid it, a 3/4" Hazard Fraught - err, Harbor Freight - breaker and 365 lb fatboi was enough to crank them out and back in so there's that.
(Yes, I expect a next time; I figure 100,000 to 125,000 miles per front end rebuild to keep it tight and working right. YMMV natch.)
RwP
Lmao! You give me some hope. I’m 230. The neighbor kid is 280. Together we got you beat! Should be a piece of cake.
I’m linking you to the lower ball joint I have on my wish list. Looks like a threaded one in the picture. Looked up the same one on RockAuto (more info) and it does say it is pressed in. I see no snap ring either. What is holding that ball joint in?
ACDelco Professional 45D2189 Front Lower Suspension Ball Joint Assembly
so there's that.