May just be friction; the weight of the truck will bear down on it helping to hold it in, after all.

Lower end of spring is on the LCA; spindle bolts to ball joint and that's what the tire bolts to indirectly; so the weight of the truck forces the ball joint INTO the LCA.

(It tends to pull the upper one out, which is why it's threaded or in later gens riveted.)

Just a forewarning: I had to drill and Helicoil the lower shock mounts on my truck also due to the OEM shocks still being on the truck (and not doing jack squat on bounce or jounce control ... ) Standard helicoil is actually longer than the control arm is thick.

I may go back and put a nut rivet in when I do my next LCAs (so I can rebush and rebuild, including powder coating them, before I do the swap. Just trying to minimize down time.)

But that's at least 50,000 miles off, so late 2022 or so

RwP

 

Here is the link to RockA for the lower balljoint:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...owlq%2Fw%3D%3D


Here is the link to RockA for the upper balljoint:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...owlq%2Fw%3D%3D

The product info for both these ball joints say they are press-in mount types. The photos from both appear to be threaded. Truthfully, I don't know what to believe.


UPDATE: I found some Proforged on E-Bay. Both the uppers and lowers that according to their chart fits my truck. Even the pictures look right (upper thread type, lower press-in). About $35 ea free shipping. And in-stock. Called O'Reilly and they have no Proforged in stock and no delivery date.

 

OK, Ralph. I got one of these sellers to go back on their shelves and open up one of those AC Delco boxes. The upper is, indeed threaded. I think ACD has their descriptions and photographs screwed up. I should be OK with the specified balljoints. Lots of places are out of one or both. Looks like my best choice is E-bay.

Last question: What brand tie rod parts would you recommend?

I have my game plan outlined and my tool list put together. The tie rods are all that remain on my parts list and then I can get going on this thing.

Thanks! Ed

 

I'd probably stick with ACDelco Pro grade or Proforged. Both have done me right recently. (Well, the ACDelcos were actually Raybestos Pro Grade; same Spicer Pro parts, different box.)

RwP

 

Geez, these AC Delco tie rod parts are harder to find than the balljoints. Plenty of manual steering or even 4WD. But 2WD power steering is non existent. Throughout this parts search I have found AC Delco Pro are highly regarded parts as you have learned yourself. Looks like I can get the ACDelco ball joints but maybe I'll have to stick with the Advanced Auto stuff for the tie rods. However, they do carry two levels of the same brand so I can get the premium parts. At least the tie rods are easy to replace vs the ball joints in the event the parts suck. Truthfully, I've had good luck with Advanced parts. Like you, I get the higher priced stuff if given the option. I have no complaints.

While I am planning to change both the inner and outer tie rods on both sides I wonder how necessary it is to change the inners. Thoughts beyond "Well, while you're there change them out"? Which is probably reason enuf.

Has Harbor Freight done away with most of their coupons? Seems they do this "Instant Savings" stuff more. Basically marks down the price with no coupon required.

 

It depends.

If there's no play, I'd send the current inners; but if you have a doubt, replace them.

Hint: When you break the jam nut free, put a mark on the shaft right behind it; spin the old outer off; spin the new one on to the jam nut; and jam it there. Then twist the tie rod assembly to where it'll go back into the spindle.

It will probably not be RIGHT, but at least you can drive it to the alignment shop afterwards ...

As I type this, I peeked - RockAuto shows 3 in stock of the RWD inner power steering tie rods.

Yes, Harbor Freight has discontinued their coupons for the most part.

RwP

 

Thank you, Sir. I’m gonna check that tie rod again. I think the play is all coming from the ends. I would think changing the ends only would make it easier to keep it close to the same length as you outlined. I’m fortunate that my alignment guy is only two miles away.

$45 for the 3/4 breaker bar and the Sunex socket. I’ll probably never use them again.

 

Any opinion on Rare Parts?

 

None yet; but I'd Google for as many reviews as I could.

ACDelco - Raybestos - and used to be TRW and Moog - I would buy on name (the fact that Federal Mogul bought TRW's suspension division out and killed it, and bought Moog's suspension division, and my Moog I've tried Just Did Not Last At All, took them off the list!).

ProForged got several high marks in the Corvette and Camaro forums; so I tried them. (This was before Holley bought them, so eh. Don't know what Holley will do, but they ARE still Made In Taiwan, which beats Made In China of Chinesium or Made In Thailand of Thaitanium IMO).

Rare Parts I've not tried; didn't care for buying any house brand parts TBH. About all I'd stick with house brand would be sway bar end links. But that's me.

(I also have an alternator/starter/generator guy who rebuilds my alternators and starters, when I need it done. He's only had to redo one alternator in ... dang, about 50 years of using that shop!)

RwP

 

Advanced and Auto Zone (I think other parts stores) sell Rare Parts but by order only. They don’t really stock them. I did a cursory search on You Tube. They make some real honker sized tie rod components. Might be a separate product line for the big truck gearheads. They loved it. I’m looking at their regular stuff. Can also buy direct from their website. They make a good amount of different stuff. Seems to be mostly steering n suspension parts. Need to research their regular stuff for lowlifes like me. Not cheap I will say. Don’t mind paying it if I think the value is there. They do go back in time for harder to find parts. Hence their name.