Suspension Plus
Originally Posted by bronze;[url=tel:3525101
3525101[/url]]Advanced and Auto Zone (I think other parts stores) sell Rare Parts but by order only. They don’t really stock them. I did a cursory search on You Tube. They make some real honker sized tie rod components. Might be a separate product line for the big truck gearheads. They loved it. I’m looking at their regular stuff. Can also buy direct from their website. They make a good amount of different stuff. Seems to be mostly steering n suspension parts. Need to research their regular stuff for lowlifes like me. Not cheap I will say. Don’t mind paying it if I think the value is there. They do go back in time for harder to find parts. Hence their name.
Welp, Ralph. Just went out there. Took one of the front tires off so I could see the tie rod. Did the 3 and 9 o’clock shimmy. The rod end doesn’t move at all. But the inner rod moves in and out. Not much. Maybe a 16th to an 1/8th. But it isn’t my rod ends moving. It’s the inner tie rods. I guess I always figgered when the tie rod goes 9x out of 10 it’s the outer rod end. So looks like I need to replace it all. Hope its the inner rod and not the rack or sumpin.
The inner has a ball joint on it; I'd also do the OUTER for Justin Case.
Pull the two as an assembly if the new inners come with jam nuts (or see if you can pick jam nuts up!) and get some rack bellows - not Moog; last Moog bellows I bought lasted 6 months.
That way you can adjust the tie rod assembly to the same overall length, making it easier to keep it close enough to steer to the alignment shop.
RwP
Pull the two as an assembly if the new inners come with jam nuts (or see if you can pick jam nuts up!) and get some rack bellows - not Moog; last Moog bellows I bought lasted 6 months.
That way you can adjust the tie rod assembly to the same overall length, making it easier to keep it close enough to steer to the alignment shop.
RwP
Originally Posted by RalphP;[url=tel:3525173
3525173[/url]]The inner has a ball joint on it; I'd also do the OUTER for Justin Case.
Pull the two as an assembly if the new inners come with jam nuts (or see if you can pick jam nuts up!) and get some rack bellows - not Moog; last Moog bellows I bought lasted 6 months.
That way you can adjust the tie rod assembly to the same overall length, making it easier to keep it close enough to steer to the alignment shop.
RwP
Pull the two as an assembly if the new inners come with jam nuts (or see if you can pick jam nuts up!) and get some rack bellows - not Moog; last Moog bellows I bought lasted 6 months.
That way you can adjust the tie rod assembly to the same overall length, making it easier to keep it close enough to steer to the alignment shop.
RwP
Anyway, it comes with inners already on it so All I’d need is outers.
How can I know if the rack on my truck is still good?
My thoughts?
My Cardones (one on the Dakota, one on the Cougar) didn't make 10,000 miles.
My RackDoctor.NET unit on both have seen over 100,000 each.
As to how do you know; it won't play in and out. What you do is see if it's leaking.
(Consider how a rack and pinion is constructed ... there's not may ways for it to pick up play, save for Just Dun Wore Slap Out. And usually the seals give way before the rack's worn out.)
If you DO replace it - I'd also recommend some good poly bushings.
I get compliments on how tight the Dakota is, and it's got some play in it now (as far as I can tell, it's the lower bushing in the steering column; it raises up and down a bit when I go in the play.)
RwP
My Cardones (one on the Dakota, one on the Cougar) didn't make 10,000 miles.
My RackDoctor.NET unit on both have seen over 100,000 each.
As to how do you know; it won't play in and out. What you do is see if it's leaking.
(Consider how a rack and pinion is constructed ... there's not may ways for it to pick up play, save for Just Dun Wore Slap Out. And usually the seals give way before the rack's worn out.)
If you DO replace it - I'd also recommend some good poly bushings.
I get compliments on how tight the Dakota is, and it's got some play in it now (as far as I can tell, it's the lower bushing in the steering column; it raises up and down a bit when I go in the play.)
RwP
Originally Posted by RalphP;[url=tel:3525177
3525177]My thoughts?
My Cardones (one on the Dakota, one on the Cougar) didn't make 10,000 miles.
My RackDoctor.NET unit on both have seen over 100,000 each.
As to how do you know; it won't play in and out. What you do is see if it's leaking.
(Consider how a rack and pinion is constructed ... there's not may ways for it to pick up play, save for Just Dun Wore Slap Out. And usually the seals give way before the rack's worn out.)
If you DO replace it - I'd also recommend some good poly bushings.
I get compliments on how tight the Dakota is, and it's got some play in it now (as far as I can tell, it's the lower bushing in the steering column; it raises up and down a bit when I go in the play.)
RwP
My Cardones (one on the Dakota, one on the Cougar) didn't make 10,000 miles.
My RackDoctor.NET unit on both have seen over 100,000 each.
As to how do you know; it won't play in and out. What you do is see if it's leaking.
(Consider how a rack and pinion is constructed ... there's not may ways for it to pick up play, save for Just Dun Wore Slap Out. And usually the seals give way before the rack's worn out.)
If you DO replace it - I'd also recommend some good poly bushings.
I get compliments on how tight the Dakota is, and it's got some play in it now (as far as I can tell, it's the lower bushing in the steering column; it raises up and down a bit when I go in the play.)
RwP
The parts n tools are trickling in. Got the Sunex today. Thing is a Hoss. More parts due tomorrow and into next week. Should order tie rod crap tomorrow. Still undecided.
Once again, thanks Ralph. You’ve been a big help. And I can go back on this thread if need be when I get to some of these repairs.
Originally Posted by RalphP;[url=tel:3525177
3525177]My thoughts?
My Cardones (one on the Dakota, one on the Cougar) didn't make 10,000 miles.
My RackDoctor.NET unit on both have seen over 100,000 each.
As to how do you know; it won't play in and out. What you do is see if it's leaking.
(Consider how a rack and pinion is constructed ... there's not may ways for it to pick up play, save for Just Dun Wore Slap Out. And usually the seals give way before the rack's worn out.)
If you DO replace it - I'd also recommend some good poly bushings.
I get compliments on how tight the Dakota is, and it's got some play in it now (as far as I can tell, it's the lower bushing in the steering column; it raises up and down a bit when I go in the play.)
RwP
My Cardones (one on the Dakota, one on the Cougar) didn't make 10,000 miles.
My RackDoctor.NET unit on both have seen over 100,000 each.
As to how do you know; it won't play in and out. What you do is see if it's leaking.
(Consider how a rack and pinion is constructed ... there's not may ways for it to pick up play, save for Just Dun Wore Slap Out. And usually the seals give way before the rack's worn out.)
If you DO replace it - I'd also recommend some good poly bushings.
I get compliments on how tight the Dakota is, and it's got some play in it now (as far as I can tell, it's the lower bushing in the steering column; it raises up and down a bit when I go in the play.)
RwP
Started running through power steering fluid like it was gasoline or something.
RwP






