Yeah--- good points. My car insurance will cover the tow, and I have a good mechanic who knows older vehichles. I can't move the truck easily, and it is in my side yard, in the mud now as we have melted snow, and I can't easily get it on ramps, and it is way to hard to work under it, w/o getting it off the ground some, etc. Your are totally right-- it is a physiological thing-- if I had a code and felt certain I knew what parts needed replacement-- I'd feel like my efforts were worth it. But I have no real confidence that any of these parts (especially the temp sensors) will do the trick. It starts and idles rough, and the rpms do not seem steady-- so I think it must be a sensor. It just totally shuts down when put in gear-- so that makes me think it is a transmission issue/sensor. The truck was garage kept, and I really want to clean it up-- but I am just not sure I can bring myself to put in the time-- and likely end up not finding the problem. I did not pay much for it at all, so even if it cost me a few hundred bucks-- it will not be too bad. I will report back, so hopefully somebody can benefit from this later. It is a project truck, and I do not need it for daily transportation. They are fun little trucks to drive around town!

 

One wire sensor is for the gauge in the dash. Two wire sensor is for the PCM. I don't think that is your problem though.....

 

So much for the accuracy of diagrams in the fsm

 

Thanks "Hey You"-- I agree-- I do not think it is those sensors. I did find a badly cracked vac line-- that I repaired. But no improvement. I wonder if the ECU is still compensating for the vac leak? Is there a way I can reset the ECU???? Also, I am going to use the spray carb cleaner method to check other places for a vacuum leak. My mechanic said to replace the IAC.

Is there a way I can get a picture of all the vac lines, for a 1994 dakota? I have the haynes manual--- but not sure it helps...

Thanks again guys!!!

 

vac diagram I have

 

THANKS MAN!!!!! I will report back if I am able to find a leak-- may not be until the weekend....

 

Well-- still no solution. While truck was running/idleing-- I sprayed down all vac lines and vac areas with carb cleaner--- in search of a leak and found nothing.
I installed a good quality NAPA IAC valve-- but that did not help. I do not know what to try next.
I did get it to move today, if I held down gas a tad and put in gear--- but it is clearly not getting gas or air or something--- as it stalls so easy.
If there are any other ideas before I have it towed-- please let me know.

 

If you think it is losing gas or not getting gas test the pressure. There is a Schrader valve on the crossover bar for the fuel injectors, driver side where you connect a pressure gauge. Start it and manually gas it to see what it does. I forget the correct pressure but its north of 30lbs. Just checked, it gives a broad range at idle speed 35-45psi. You might also ask one of the guys to explain how to switch the ASD relay. Apparently there is another one in the same box that is the same and can be plugged into the asd slot to see if that is what is wrong. But I don;t think that is it. You were running fine then flushed it and replaced the thermostat. I'm betting the problem is somewhere in that area.

 

I believe all those relays are the same. Should say on the relay.

 

I swapped some relays (they are the same) and still had same issues. I can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone-- so I may try that.

Crankcase Breather looks really old--- but that would not cause this issue--- right?