Hi. First time posting. My truck won't crank, or start. No power at coil. It is throwing no codes but battery disconnect. At first I was jumping the starter relay and didn't have the ASd relay in and it would crank I went and bought new relays put them in and now I have a no crank situation. I've replaced the distributor cap the rotor the ignition module in the distributor Sparks and wires all three relays are new meaning starter fuel pump and ASD, got a new coil and my headlights work. The check engine light does not stay illuminated so I don't think there's any communication with the computer. I'm confused as to why after putting the new relays in I it won't crank now maybe it's the neutral safety switch? I'm not a mechanic by any means but I've learned my way around this motor and would appreciate any help. Thank you

 

Auto trans I assume? Yes, it could be the NSS. Also could be the tranny linkage. Did you try starting it in neutral? Could be ignition switch.

 

Yes to automatic trans. yes to tried in neutral. Just checked voltage at starter and it's 12 v. Can't crank it and check the other wire, I'm by myself. I just replaced ignition cylinder and was wondering if maybe something wasn't hooked up right. I just made me a wheel puller and I'm going to look at switch next. I'll let you know. Thank you.

 

Check the ign switch.

 

I'm not sure where you live but from an Ohio (aka rust belt) perspective I'd recommend taking off your ground wires, metal brushing all your connections and checking for corrosion within the actual wires. You can also check for corrosion where you plugged in those new relays, gently needle file the little holes and spray with CRC QD Electronics Cleaner. I found my can at Harbor Freight but a lot of stores sell it.

I have never personally done this before, but, if there is no computer connection you could try unplugging it and checking the many pins and holes for corrosion to file out but be very careful and watch YouTube videos of people doing it first. I am not a mechanic either but I've fixed more than a few things on my truck (that is from Kentucky btw) with a pack of $3 needle files, QD Cleaner and 3-10 hours. It's an option that's cheap and worth exploring before buying more parts.

 

Yes automatic. I have tried in neutral but no crank there either. I'm going to check the ignition switch next. I'm getting power to my relays I hear them all click but the starter relay but I tested the relay and it's good it's brand new. I'm not quite getting how the power flows from the ignition switch then to those relays I'm assuming and then to the starter? But I'm quite sure there's something that will not let the starter relay work if it feels there's another problem? The sbec is like not letting the starter relay ground or something maybe? I'm not sure exactly how the power goes. I did crank it with a wire directly from my battery to the starter and I got some new codes before it was just 33 and 55. But since I cranked it I now get 12 33 and 55. Do I need to crank it a number of times before my computer is going to tell me more codes? I read something about you have to crank it 15 times or something before you're going to see any new codes.

 

https://www.dakota-truck.net/CODES/codes.html
12 means the battery has been disconnected I think it goes away after 50 starts without disconnecting the battery.
I think it would have to run to give you new codes from the operating system.
This is the original publisher of the factory manuals. You can get a CD of it for around $40
http://www.autobooksbishko.com/repair-manual.html

 

Ok, yellow wire from ignition switch goes to the control side of the relay, Brown with yellow from the relay goes to (apparently....) the park/neutral switch, and/or the single module engine controller. (to clue in the computer that you are cranking the engine??) Main power feed for the relay comes from the alternator, it would appear.... wire is either red, or black, depends on which alternator you have...... (why????) Brown wire from relay goes to starter solenoid. Should be a fat red wire going down there as well, to one of the big terminals on the starter.

 

Thank you. I will check out some videos and do this. Im in Oregon so corrosion is a constant problem.

 

I was wondering if you could tell me when the wires would have 12 volts to them? Is it all the time or only when cranking?