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I was too cheap to buy a two post lift. Same with a four post lift. Did I mention I hate to weld on my back? Sketchy way to do this, but I have some jack stands under the frame in case the hoist lets go. Two cross braces to help keep the frame straight. Alrighty, then!
I measured just over 30' of weld seams needing to be done. I got around 7' - 8' done on Saturday. I had to take a day off. Or two. I hope to be at it again in the next day or so, but weather is a factor. and going in for some med testing. Hope to see more progress soon.
Of course, I run out of weld gas on a Saturday. Weld supply doesn't open until Monday. So back to the rear end. I have it totally disassembled, down to the pinion shaft. After removing the flange nut and flange (needed a 3 jaw puller to get the flange off), the videos I watched shows the pinion shaft should pop out with a dead blow hammer. Soaked it with penetrating oil, and over three days of beating on it to the point I now have a very sore elbow, I decided to quit fooling around. I broke out my 20 ton shop press. I was nervous with the amount of pressure it took! No wonder I have a sore elbow and wasn't getting anywhere. It turns out the pinion shaft was rusted to the outer bearing race. The thing let go with a very loud BANG! I am now really glad I decided to try a diff rebuild (my first time) instead of trying to use this rear end as is. The rust looks like it will clean up with a bit of scotchbright.
At this point, I have welded about 20' of the boxing plates. Only 11 or 12' left to weld. The chassis is already way stiffer, and also heavier.
The rear axle housing is finally devoid of all bearings, seals, and such. Hopefully the final assembly will be less of a fight. Now the ugly task of cleaning the 26 yo sludge out of it. Once cleaned, the axle tubes will get welded to the pumpkin. Then the rear suspension can begin. All the new bearings, seals, shims, etc. won't start to go in it until all of the suspension brackets are welded in place.