HY, I have a question. This goes back 3+ years ago after I first installed my external voltage regulator. My dash voltage gauge was wigging out big time. I mean violently...not mildly like it does now. I learned from somewhere that it was being caused by the power wire being too thin. I was using a 14ga wire and switched it to a 12ga wire and that eliminated the violent shaking. But this is what I'm not understanding. That power wire gets connected to one of the field wires a few inches away from the plug that goes into the regulator. Sure looks like a 14ga wire to me going into that plug.

Wouldn't this negate the advantage of the thicker 12ga wire when the last few inches are the skinny 14ga? Thought it acted like a chain...only as strong as the weakest link. OR, is it an accumulation thing where most of the power line is thick and, thereby, reducing the overall resistance going into the regulator??

 

I would expect the smaller wire would act as a 'choke' as far as current flow goes. Maybe the smaller wire just didn't have a good connection somewhere?? Replacing it solved that???

 

I don't know. Even the alternatorman who sells these external voltage regulator parts said that power wire has to be a 12ga wire or else the gauge will wig out. I believe he was the person I learned this from. Yet those wires going into the plug he sells are 14ga wires. Probably 4-inch pigtails. Here is a pix of one of those plugs. Pretty much the same thing I got from the alternatorman. Looks like 14ga wires to me and when you look at it live they are skinnier than the 12ga power wire I have connected to it. You'll have to take my word. I connect my power wire to the blue wire coming out of the plug.

 

Hey, if it works, that is all I really care about.

 

Since attaching my ground from the regulator mount to the negative terminal on the battery, I have taken 4 daily trips of 10-20 miles each. The voltage dash gauge has been steady as a rock. Does this mean it's fixed? No, I've seen too much to say it is anywhere near fixed. But 4 is better than 0.

 

Dash voltage gauge still steady as a rock. Getting the ground from the neg batt terminal is holding out good so far.

 

Well HY, back to being utterly baffled. Recap: about a month ago I added a new 10ga ground cable from one of the regulator mounting bolts directly to the negative battery terminal. That stiffened the dancing voltage dash gauge right up. Steady as a rock. Stayed that way until the other day when it went back to dancing around again (same as all my previous attempts). And yes, the lights flicker as well. I just got done using larger sheet metal mounting bolts on the regulator to ensure I'm getting a solid connection for the ground. Didn't change a thing. So I am back to having only crappy ideas left...replace alternator, or relocate the regulator elsewhere in the engine compartment, or try another OBD1. A NEW alternator from RockAuto can be got for under $100 with brand choices. I assume I had a 90amp OEM alternator. It would seem this would be my next best chance but what do I know?

Any thoughts?

 

Wish I knew. That other rig of mine stopped having a parasitic draw on its own and the dash was working then the dash quit again.

 

At this point, I don't have a clue..... Changing the alternator *might* fix it.... but, might not too..... It still acts like a bad ground somewhere though..... Check the ground for the alternator itself?

 

I’m with you it screams bad ground. I have two ground cables going to the alternator. The original one and a new one I added a year ago. Both go to the grounding stud on the engine block. I tightened that thing two or three times. Even wire brushed everything. That said, I’m gonna do it again. When everything you think it is isn’t what it is then you have to do things you don’t think it is. Hope that made sense.