1993 Dodge Dakota LE, 5.2L, A518 auto trans, RWD, 184,000 miles, original owner

OK, the problem is getting worse. About a year ago (shortly after I had a new ignition switch and key cylinder replaced) I began getting an intermittent starting problem. I'd turn the key, the engine would begin to turn over but then cut out immediately. I'm talking a fraction of a second after contact. Might take 2-4 times before the engine would crank long enuf to fire up. Frequency of problem: Started out 6 mos, then 3 then 1, now nearly every time. When: After truck has been sitting at least a day. I'll drive to the store or something and when I come out it fires right up every time. Relegated to a cold truck only.

I suspect the ignition switch and/or key cylinder for two reasons. One, the problem started not long after these parts were replaced with aftermarket brands. Two, I never liked the feel of that new switch. That travel of the rotation where it turns the engine over is smaller than the OEM switch. I suspect the starter because, well, because it's the starter. It's the original starter. My experience with bad starters thruout my life has been relegated to solenoid clicking. An obvious problem telling me the starter was going out and, sure enough, replacing the starter would solve the problem. This is not solenoid clicking. This is the engine turning for a split second then shutting down. I realize there are many symptoms of a bad starter and thinking this is one of them...like the bendix gear malfunctioning or sumpin'.

Any thoughts?

 

\_(*-*)_/ idk

 

Check battery connections.

 

Done. Brand new terminals and some new wires.

 

OK, to recap....I go to start the truck. I turn the key and it begins to crank and within a split second it dies out. Never really hear it turn over because it cuts out immediately. It has always started on the second, third, or fourth attempt. It only happens when the truck has been sitting for a day or more. It never happens when the truck is warmed up and I'm out and about. This started randomly about a year ago. It's frequency has increased to the point it happens most of the time I go to start up my truck.

I checked the starter relay. It clicks perfectly fine and there is 0 ohm resistance. I replaced it with a new one anyway. I checked the battery and it comes up "GOOD"..it's only 1.5 years old. The connection at the battery is cleaner than an operating room table. I get no OBD1 codes. I think I checked something else but I can't remember what. I am a little suspicious of the ignition switch that was put in 1.5 years ago. It has never felt right (the rotation amount while the engine turns over is really small compared to OEM). It's a Borg Warner ign switch so I'm assuming it's OK. So in my mind, the only thing left is the starter.

I dove into it and I can get a 5/8" short box wrench on the top nut (appears the bolts are fixed on the flywheel housing cuz I don't see a bolt head). Probably only about 70 degrees of rotation available but that's 10 degrees more than I need to re-seat the box wrench. Bottom nut is easy. I'll have to detach the two cables/wires that go to the starter from above because there is no way to wrench them off at the starter...zero room. So I'm thinking I'll employ the "Fix what you can, what's left is what's wrong" method and replace the starter. I would like to de-nut the connections at the starter, clean up the connection and see if that fixes the problem. However, I cannot get to those connections without removing the starter and if I'm going thru all that then I'm just gonna replace the starter and say thank you for 30 years of service. New quality brand starters at RockAuto are sub $100 (incl shipping) so it's not a bank buster.

Please feel free to blow holes in my approach here. I welcome it. Of course you can always say, "Hey Bronze, that's a brilliant approach and I'd do the same thing".

 

HF has box wrenches that ratchet. Don't know if that will help.
I hates intermittents! Can you test the ignition switch in place? If it was easier to remove and test it I'd try that first just cause I'm lazy. Could be the wiring in between the switch and the starter.

I have an issue that started a year or two after I bought it. Sometimes when I start the pinion just spins like it didn't kick out far enough. It starts the next time I turn the key when this happens. If I turn the key on and wait 10 seconds or more it doesn't happen. I expect I have a wire wearing out somewhere but I haven't even bothered to look. Once it gets started it doesn't do that again until it has been off for over 12 hours.

 

I would be curious where the problem actually stems from. Might be tempted to put a meter on the starter wire from the relay, and see what voltage does when it acts up.

 

Yeah, that's possible. Maybe when the mechanic who put in the replacement switch got some wires boogered up. That the frequency is acting up is telling me this is a wear problem. Took a long time but here I am.

 

Like a min/max voltage reading?

 

Yep. Gotta be a minimum of 9 volts to hold the solenoid in. I would also be curious to see if you just get voltage for a few short seconds....