Odd new noise
Found the clutch assembly that is for my compressor 4605 and for the replacement 4359. I finally stumbled across the first link I found yesterday. It did not specify my compressor. This time I went to home and searched for my truck and the other options for my year came up. The last one had both compressor model numbers.
$120 with delivery.
https://acclutches.com/1-dodge-truck...-98-99-00-a-c/
$120 with delivery.
https://acclutches.com/1-dodge-truck...-98-99-00-a-c/
It showed up at 2pm yesterday and the rain started coming down. i waited until this morning it hasn't stopped. I pulled it up close to the house and went at it.
I removed the fan and shroud which have to come off together anyway. You have to disconnect the top rad hose and the over flow hose too.
The clutch came right off. There was a bunch of grease on the pulley snap ring and bearing in there so the bearing probably went. My two prong puller handled the pulley no problem. Just enough room to get a ratchet on it up next to the radiator. And the magnet came right off. I cut the wires of the original setup with about 4 inches extra and spliced them to the new one which was a different connector. sealed them with heat shrink.The seller said -/+ doesn't matter. Had to pound the pulley on with rubber hammer. HF snap ring kit worked well. Needed a smaller pair to put the new one on the pulley. ??
Trick in the instructions would be the shim set up. They say to put all the shims on, they sent 4 or 5 I lost one, put the clutch on and press it in and spin the pulley. Then take one off put the clutch on spin the pulley. Keep doing this, when you hear it rub put the last one back on and screw the nut down. And once that is done get two wires from the battery posts to the magnet connector and make sure the clutch activates. It did.
It pushes cool air now anyway. Still a funny sound up there. I'm tired and sick of working in the rain.
I removed the fan and shroud which have to come off together anyway. You have to disconnect the top rad hose and the over flow hose too.
The clutch came right off. There was a bunch of grease on the pulley snap ring and bearing in there so the bearing probably went. My two prong puller handled the pulley no problem. Just enough room to get a ratchet on it up next to the radiator. And the magnet came right off. I cut the wires of the original setup with about 4 inches extra and spliced them to the new one which was a different connector. sealed them with heat shrink.The seller said -/+ doesn't matter. Had to pound the pulley on with rubber hammer. HF snap ring kit worked well. Needed a smaller pair to put the new one on the pulley. ??
Trick in the instructions would be the shim set up. They say to put all the shims on, they sent 4 or 5 I lost one, put the clutch on and press it in and spin the pulley. Then take one off put the clutch on spin the pulley. Keep doing this, when you hear it rub put the last one back on and screw the nut down. And once that is done get two wires from the battery posts to the magnet connector and make sure the clutch activates. It did.
It pushes cool air now anyway. Still a funny sound up there. I'm tired and sick of working in the rain.
It showed up at 2pm yesterday and the rain started coming down. i waited until this morning it hasn't stopped. I pulled it up close to the house and went at it.
I removed the fan and shroud which have to come off together anyway. You have to disconnect the top rad hose and the over flow hose too.
The clutch came right off. There was a bunch of grease on the pulley snap ring and bearing in there so the bearing probably went. My two prong puller handled the pulley no problem. Just enough room to get a ratchet on it up next to the radiator. And the magnet came right off. I cut the wires of the original setup with about 4 inches extra and spliced them to the new one which was a different connector. sealed them with heat shrink.The seller said -/+ doesn't matter. Had to pound the pulley on with rubber hammer. HF snap ring kit worked well. Needed a smaller pair to put the new one on the pulley. ??
Trick in the instructions would be the shim set up. They say to put all the shims on, they sent 4 or 5 I lost one, put the clutch on and press it in and spin the pulley. Then take one off put the clutch on spin the pulley. Keep doing this, when you hear it rub put the last one back on and screw the nut down. And once that is done get two wires from the battery posts to the magnet connector and make sure the clutch activates. It did.
It pushes cool air now anyway. Still a funny sound up there. I'm tired and sick of working in the rain.
I removed the fan and shroud which have to come off together anyway. You have to disconnect the top rad hose and the over flow hose too.
The clutch came right off. There was a bunch of grease on the pulley snap ring and bearing in there so the bearing probably went. My two prong puller handled the pulley no problem. Just enough room to get a ratchet on it up next to the radiator. And the magnet came right off. I cut the wires of the original setup with about 4 inches extra and spliced them to the new one which was a different connector. sealed them with heat shrink.The seller said -/+ doesn't matter. Had to pound the pulley on with rubber hammer. HF snap ring kit worked well. Needed a smaller pair to put the new one on the pulley. ??
Trick in the instructions would be the shim set up. They say to put all the shims on, they sent 4 or 5 I lost one, put the clutch on and press it in and spin the pulley. Then take one off put the clutch on spin the pulley. Keep doing this, when you hear it rub put the last one back on and screw the nut down. And once that is done get two wires from the battery posts to the magnet connector and make sure the clutch activates. It did.
It pushes cool air now anyway. Still a funny sound up there. I'm tired and sick of working in the rain.
One of the other pulleys??? Or the compressor itself is bad. I know the tensioner pulley is new since I bought it. It sounds like metal rubbing but less bad than it was before I replaced the clutch.
Did you try dressing the belt? I smear a little dab of dielectric grease on a couple spots along the belt to get my squeaks out. I thought it was a pulley too but it wasn't. A trick I got off You Tube and it worked. Gotta reapply every 4 months or so.
Hard to tell which pulley it is. An idler pulley is cheap and one that goes out more commonly. Can always take a chance and try it wont cost much. Besides, if it aint bad now then it’s not gonna be much longer anyway
Now that is solved I can repair my rad, tomorrow. They taught us at AIT at Aberdeen proving ground way back in 81 to solder them but rads were brass then. I found a guy on YT who found welding rod at the auto parts store Forney 46111 Easy Flo aluminum rod and Forney 37250 brazing flux. He used Mapp gas which is 300 degrees hotter than propane. You can get that at Home Despot. I have a little oxy acetylene setup I hope is full that I am going to use. I got both the rod and flux at a different Napa. About $32 as well. If you ever do it, clean it well with a new or very clean mostly unsued wire brush. Heat the leak spot on the radiator up good then apply the flux. Heat it more and when it seems hot enough just like with regular soldering touch the rod to it to see if it melts. Alum melts at a relatively low temp but the oxide that forms on it as soon as air hits it melts at something over 2000 degrees. I no longer remember that temp. I expect the rods by the look of them have a flux coating to keep the air away from the alum and help it flo and stick. If its not clean enough it won't stick. I hope I can rent a pressure test kit to work out if my fix worked. They sell one at HF for $89. I've already spent too much money over the last ten days.
EDIT- Here he is
Last edited by onemore94dak; May 5, 2024 at 05:23 PM.
You called it. Replaced the idler ($32 @ Napa) and noise gone. When I took it off there wasn't much to notice about it but a slight grind that didn't seem like much. I figured the serpentine belt puts a lot more torque on it than my finger can. Napa was the lowest price. AZ was $42 and Advanced was more than AZ I forget the number. RA was $22 delivered but I did not want to wait.
Now that is solved I can repair my rad, tomorrow. They taught us at AIT at Aberdeen proving ground way back in 81 to solder them but rads were brass then. I found a guy on YT who found welding rod at the auto parts store Forney 46111 Easy Flo aluminum rod and Forney 37250 brazing flux. He used Mapp gas which is 300 degrees hotter than propane. You can get that at Home Despot. I have a little oxy acetylene setup I hope is full that I am going to use. I got both the rod and flux at a different Napa. About $32 as well. If you ever do it, clean it well with a new or very clean mostly unsued wire brush. Heat the leak spot on the radiator up good then apply the flux. Heat it more and when it seems hot enough just like with regular soldering touch the rod to it to see if it melts. Alum melts at a relatively low temp but the oxide that forms on it as soon as air hits it melts at something over 2000 degrees. I no longer remember that temp. I expect the rods by the look of them have a flux coating to keep the air away from the alum and help it flo and stick. If its not clean enough it won't stick. I hope I can rent a pressure test kit to work out if my fix worked. They sell one at HF for $89. I've already spent too much money over the last ten days.
EDIT- Here he is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdyBXmO_JgU It aint $8.99 any longer. You can't even get the Mapp gas for that.
Now that is solved I can repair my rad, tomorrow. They taught us at AIT at Aberdeen proving ground way back in 81 to solder them but rads were brass then. I found a guy on YT who found welding rod at the auto parts store Forney 46111 Easy Flo aluminum rod and Forney 37250 brazing flux. He used Mapp gas which is 300 degrees hotter than propane. You can get that at Home Despot. I have a little oxy acetylene setup I hope is full that I am going to use. I got both the rod and flux at a different Napa. About $32 as well. If you ever do it, clean it well with a new or very clean mostly unsued wire brush. Heat the leak spot on the radiator up good then apply the flux. Heat it more and when it seems hot enough just like with regular soldering touch the rod to it to see if it melts. Alum melts at a relatively low temp but the oxide that forms on it as soon as air hits it melts at something over 2000 degrees. I no longer remember that temp. I expect the rods by the look of them have a flux coating to keep the air away from the alum and help it flo and stick. If its not clean enough it won't stick. I hope I can rent a pressure test kit to work out if my fix worked. They sell one at HF for $89. I've already spent too much money over the last ten days.
EDIT- Here he is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bdyBXmO_JgU It aint $8.99 any longer. You can't even get the Mapp gas for that.
A little high for an idler pulley but I’m sure you couldn’t care less at this point. It’s fixed! Auto parts stores are always more vs Amazon, RA, etc. You’ll never know for sure but you likely saved a ton of money in repairs. As I mentioned before, my idler went out and the belt busted, grabbed the upper radiator hose and ripped the top clean off of the radiator. That’s when I discovered a new radiator wasn’t that expensive either. Might want to consider a new rad as an option for your truck.












