I just might be spending more time in the heat fixing the AC than being inside my truck driving it. Seriously! hahaha

 

Yep. Know how that goes. After spending close to 800 bucks to get my A/C fixed, it lasted two days..... And that was over two visits...... most of the system is new, but, I suspect the leak is the evap core..... and that's a farking job...... I ASKED the shop if they had a sniffer, for r134a, they said yes. But then, they also told me they couldn't find any leaks. I figure they were just incompetent. Considering they only lasted in business less than a year, it seems I wasn't the only one that felt that way.

 

I paid the Jeep dealer $1600 to replace the evap in my wife's car. That was 5 years ago. Probably $2K+ now. Don't know if they used a sniffer or a dye/camera to find the leak. Had a shop quote me $1,200 but I wanted the dealer to do the job because they know their cars. Have any shop pulling seats, consoles, and dash boards out and I'll end up with 10 pounds of hardware they didn't put back cuz they didn't know where it went.

 

HY, question. I just did a code check on my truck. Of course I get the standard 12 code for the battery being disconnected and the 55 end code. I also have a 41 code sandwiched between that's been there for a long time. A 41 reads as follows: "An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit". I'm assuming because I have an external voltage regulator that this is what is tripping that 41 code. Agree?

UPDATE:
Answer...Yes. That's why I was told to connect an 80 ohm resister between the two field wires going to the OBD1 to trick it out. It didn't work but it's not supposed to always work but the intention of the resister was to jump the circuit to knock out the ENGINE light on the dash and not throw a code.

I answered my own question after remembering I had that 80 ohm resister that didn't solve the problem.

 

That was easy.