Hello. New here. I have been searcing and could not find an answer.

1995 STOCK Dakota ext cab.
V6, auto, air.
All factory stock.
140,000 miles

Back in early spring (still cool weather), my battery went dead (completly dead, no power).
I took the battey out to go get another. Since my truck was temp disabled, I performed my yearly tune up. This includes cleaning the carb with spray cleaner, new dist cap, rotor, air filter.

After I got battery replaced, my dakota became hard to start, when cold. The ignition turns over normal, it just takes 4-5 seconds, or a couple of tries, to start. Before this, it would start instant, in any temp.

I had a couple of repair shops look at it back last spring, but they did not find anything. No codes, other than the power disconnect one, and it was cleared. I don't believe they checked it cold. They said that the computer just needs to "relearn". Thats been 6-7 months ago.

Well, when the outdoor temp warmed up (summer), it begin starting normal. Now it's fall, the engine temp is cool again, and its hard to start again.

Here is my daily route:
1. 7am start dakota. Hardest to start
2. 12 noon: hard to start
3. 4pm: hard to start. (if i don't start at noon, very hard to start)
4. NOTE: after it starts and warms up, it starts fine, until it cools down again.

After it starts, it run perfectly. No running problems, just starting.

Its not a starter problem, and I can't find any loose vacuum hoses, although I won't rule that out. This has to be some kind of temp sensor problem!!

A second problem (that may ro may not be related) is the air cond fan speed slows or stops, when the engine is under stress (like climbing a hill). Then resumes, when letting up on accelator. This sounds liek a vacuum problem, but I don't know where to check?

Any suggestions??

 

On the hard to start issue try turning the key to on for 3 seconds, back to off, then to on for 3 again, then try to start it. If that works you're loosing fuel pressure somewhere.

The fan issue is it stopping or simply changing to the defrost position? If it's merely changing position it is vacuum related likely a failed check valve.

 

I will try the on/off/on starting test tomorrow morning.

The fan is slowing to almost no air, regardless of fan speed. I will check position later today. Where is the check valve?

 

under the hood in the middle off the firewall is where the vacuum line comes out follow it until you find a small plastic drum or disc looking thing that'll be the check valve.

 

Thanks FESTERW. The drum is in the engine compartment, correct? Not under the dash?

Any way to test this, or just replace it?

 

Correct under the hood, you can try blowing into it should only pass air one direction.

 

Confirm you are getting fuel and pressure...you should be able to hear the fuel pump when you first turn the key before the engine cranks. If it's not fuel, go through your ignition system and check connections...sounds like a badly corroded battery cable to me, as long as the battery is supplying exactly 12Vs for start up.

 

FESTERW:
Your are correct on this one. The fan speed does not change, it just changes to a different port/vent. I can hear the vent door open/close in the dash, when under load and releasing pedal.

I am trying to identify the drum, is it the round plastic globe (looks like the old fashion toliet bowl float) mounted on firewall, behind the carb? It has 1 vacuum hose attached that has a "Y" going to the manifold ,and the other into the cab. If so, it only has one input. Should I assume that its bad and get another? Where is the "check valve" ? I understand that this is a problems with dakotas.

As far as my hard start problem, I will have to experiment a few mornings. I tried the on/off/on trick, but it did not seen any/much better. So you are saying that the fuel pump is loosing pressure, while setting, thus it has to prime? Why would this be much worst in cold weather?

TMACKDAKOTA: Battery cable and battery was tested and OK. Voltage is around 12.5v after setting all night. Charging at 14.5v. No corrosion either. I will check if I can hear the fuel pump running, when i turn on the key. But remember that the truck runs perfectly at all speeds. And starts fine, after started the first time.

Is there a engine starting/idle/running/choking sensor that is operates by air/engine temp.

Thank both of you for your help. I am open to any and all suggestions.

 

The IAC controls idle speed and low rpm run quality...check its electrical connector.

 

The globe is a vacuum canister, the check valve should be somewhere on that line going into the cab if there is nothing on it just get a new valve cut the line and install it may cost you all of $3 and will more than likely solve the problem.

The key trick just lets the pump build pressure and if that was the problem the truck should have started normally so we can assume pressure loss isn't the issue.

Here's what the FSM says about starting and what the PCM looks at to start

In your case I think the Coolant Temp sensor, Air Temp Sensor (IAT), MAP or TPS could be giving faulty readings at cold temps.

Coolant Temp sensor test: There are 2 coolant sensors you want the one with 2 wires and should be between the alternator and A/C compressor resistance between the 2 terminals should be less than 1340 ohms on a warm engine.

IAT test: On the front passenger side of the intake just below a cable linkage. Again the resistance between the 2 terminals should be less that 1340 ohms on a warm engine.

MAP test: On the throttle body has a rectangular top. With the key on but the engine off there should be between 4-5 volts between the center and right hand terminals and between 1.5-2.1 volts on a hot engine.

TPS test: On the throttle body and is in line with the throttle butterfly's. With the key on, engine off put one probe in the center terminal and the other at the battery negative. With the throttle closed voltage should be more than 200 millivolts and at WOT should be no more than 4.8 volts.