I found this (one of the rare 91s) and you know it actually looks pretty good.

http://www.mytrain.com/truck/1991-2.jpg

Then I found this

https://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com...-front-spoiler

I was going to have to find a new front bumper for the 90 anyway, so while $355 is a bit pricey, I'm thinking if I can find a 91-05 front core, grill and hood for relatively cheap, it might solve my $750 radiator problem.

Am I correct that ANY 91 to 95 is the same hood, core, grill and headlights? I've read in a couple of places that the hoods from 90 and 91 are the same, but I don't see how with the hood latch pushed out.

 

91-96 should be identical; however, the grill and headlights may vary (1991 came usually with the 4666 that the earlier Gen1's were cursed with; starting 1992 they offered the Aero style, but it wasn't 100% until something like 1995 or 1996, so there's a difference, but it's one that depends on the trim package).

I don't see how the 1990 and 1991 are the same, for the reason you mention.

RwP

 

Any idea how much space is gained with the curved core support? When I google the lengths of the 91 vs 90, the 91 is actually shorter!

 

*dry* That may depend on the length of the bed. For instance, my 1988 with the 8' bed is longer than almost any 1991+ with the regular 6.5 or the short 5.5 bed ...

No, but it's enough to fit a LA V8 with the clutch fan albeit with a serpentine belt; I bet it'd fit a fanless unit even with the V-belt drive.

RwP

 

Yeah, pretty sure it will fit....Senior moment, I forgot I have a 95 sitting in the driveway too. So, from firewall to core support on the 90 is about 32 7/8". For the 95, it's 36", so I gain a full 3"! Running a straight edge from fender mount to fender mount, the 90 radiator is inside of that line. On the 95 it's a full 1.5" beyond it. I'm thinking more and more this is a no brainer.

Oh, and the hoods are definitely different from a 90 to 95. A full 6" longer at the center point.

So, hood, core support, grill and headlights. My local yard has a 92 and 96, so I guess I'll make a visit this week. There was a guy on CL that has a 94 parts truck, but he wanted $200 for the hood and core support and some foggy headlights. I'm thinking that's way too high. Local yard sells hoods for $50. I can buy a whole 95 with fubar transmission for $400.

 

Pay attention to anything that bolts to the core support - for instance, you may notice that the battery tray is different and the battery turns 90* between 1990 and 1991 (for instance, yes, I've noticed that in my looking.)

You may have to do something about the evap canister; I seem to remember THAT moved.

If possible, I'd suggest finding the shroud that has the overflow reservoir on it (if there is one, memory is a bit foggy on that) to help clean up the inner fenders a bit *grins*

Hoses to the condensor will also be a bit longer; might not be a big problem, though. (And if you're not running A/C, that won't matter then.)

I'd also suggest seeing what new headlights are from places like RockAuto; skip them old foggy ones. But it's your money I'm spending there, so ... *grins*

RwP

 

The evap did move...I noticed that in the 91 junker I've robbed for parts in the past. It went from lower down to up high. But I ran all new lines, including the vent tube,so I can pretty much mount it anywhere I want.

Good call on the battery tray. Had not considered that one.

No A/C and no condenser.

Headlights are about $55 bucks a piece, and a new bezel another $50 a piece. That's $200 in freaking headlights. The $750 radiator is starting to look cheap....lol

 

I'm divided on whether or not I envy you Robertmee. The pics look great the problems not so much. But I am sure you will solve it.

 

Robert,
First off, thanks for pointing out a lot of the problems with upgrading to a v8 motor in a early gen 1 truck.
That being said, I just want to add a few of my thoughts on the matter.
If you switch to the newer style front end, you would gain 3 in. and your engine with the v-belt drive is 1.7 in. longer then a serpentine belt system. Now if you look at pictures such as 89 ragged has, with the serpentine system and the early front end, it appears to be less then 1in. from the radiator.
My point I am trying to make is, a gain of 1.3 in. and a little more, is not going to be enough to put a fan on the engine side of the radiator. So I believe you are still going to have to either eliminate the condenser, or try to sandwich a fan between the radiator and condenser.
Then you still have the problem with the header hitting the frame. If you cut the flange and turn it, you will need to modify the headpipe as well.
One thing that is for sure, IMO a V6 swap to a V8 in a early dakota is not a weekend drop in swap!!
Again, I want to thank you for your detailed post and pictures showing the obstacles to overcome with these swaps.

 

Thanks for the thanks

Yes, I already know that the AC is out the window...that was the plan all along, and I know I'll still need a pusher fan. If I go with the 90 front end, I measured, and I have 4 7/8" to work with from the front pully bolt heads to the radiator core strap where the grill mounts. Any radiator, even a custom one, is going to be 2.5 to 3" thick. That only leaves 2 3/8 to 1 7/8 inches for a pusher fan. Even the intrepid fans are thicker than that. The only one to fit 2" is the flexlite thin fans and they are $$$. So, add the fan cost on top of the $750 radiator cost, and I'm easily at $1K.

On the otherhand, I have a good parts source for GEN I body parts. He's bringing me a straight hood, core support, headlights, bumper and valence, for $300. Then I'll be able to use the nice 91 radiator that I pulled from the J/Y and a standard intrepid fan or Mark VIII fan for less than $100. So, it's $400 vs $1K, and the aero light look is starting to grow on me. I really like that 91 vert look. Plus, I'll have a 90 hood and core support and headlights that I could recoup a little $ from. But I might keep them and hang them on the wall as a reminder of this headache.

As for the header, yes that's still an issue. I have a friend that welds stainless for a living and he's coming by Friday to look at it. The radiator shop owner already looked at it and he felt pretty confident he could cut the collector, bend it up a little so that it's pointing towards the firewall, and that would give the muffler shop plenty of room to bend down following the gap between the frame and bell housing.