1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

Viper Fan upgrade....worth it?

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  #141  
Old 08-15-2007 | 01:46 AM
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Lil Red Mopar
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

Ya but if you get two temp controls like my setup in my last post, if one fails you can jump it out and use the other for high speed until you get a new temp probe for the bad one.

Simple, if the low speed craps out, adjust the cut in on the high speed to 180, disconnect the power to the bad controller, and jump out the speed selector relay.

Same thing if ya lose a relay, chuck the bad relay, run high speedoff temp only and jump out the speed selection relay.In my cicuit there are three relays, two for temp and one for speed, as long as both temp probes don't die at the same time or two relays don't die at the same time, the circiut can be modified easily to run high only cut in at 180 and cut out at 150 in an emergency and will work until parts can be had for repair.

Worse comes to worse and you lose two relays at once or both temp probes, just wire it high speed"key on" till ya get home and put the clutch fan in until parts can be had. The probes are spendy, but 30 amp 12vdc 2 and 4 pole relays are cheap around $5-$11 at your neighborhood autoparts store.

DC electric is easy to grasp compared to 3-phase, but harder to control than single-phase ac.

We'll just have to learn o'l cess won't we. I hope his electrician buddy helps him so he has a completely reliable and effective control circuit.

I might go with twin 14" fans at 9.5 amps each at 1800 RMPs each at 2950 CFM max pull totalling 5900 CFM draw at 19 amps with both fans running.

Fan 1 cycles 180 on/ 150 off, fan 2 cycles onwith ac or 195 on/ 180 off.

The hard part will be making a custom shroud for it because I'm pretty sure the the radiator core is 26" so I'm gonna have to mount the fans in a ^ shape pointing in the center towards the engine sticking out maybe an inch or inch and a half.
 
  #142  
Old 08-15-2007 | 02:01 AM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

MG diesel school, sounds cool. As an engineer I work on everything in the hotel from toilets to boilers, kitchen equipment, HVAC stuff and everything in between, but I've never wrenched on vehicles for money, sounds more fun than what I'm doing!

Maybe I'll open a hot rod shop when I retire, I've always wanted to earn money wrench'n on cars.

Good luck! I hope you can have fun and make the bucks at the same time!
 
  #143  
Old 08-15-2007 | 01:41 PM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

Well the market around here will pay $70k to start with an associates, within 5-10 years I could be making upwards of $120k. All of that will be hard earned though.
 
  #144  
Old 08-15-2007 | 02:04 PM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

Damn MG, CHA-CHING!

Operating engineers in my market only make 54k, without the Vegas heat creating lots of odd jobbing oportunities I'd be just scraping by.

Yes hard work it will be, but you can stand back and watch as your hard work rolls down the road, or keeps the lights on when the power goes out and say, " I did that."
 
  #145  
Old 08-16-2007 | 01:19 AM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

Aw crap, my wife was talking to me about moving down there to Hell *ahem* I mean LV, so that would be the salary I would expect to make as a diesel tech (with a degree not a certificate)?
 
  #146  
Old 08-16-2007 | 03:29 AM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

ORIGINAL: Mean Green

Aw crap, my wife was talking to me about moving down there to Hell *ahem* I mean LV, so that would be the salary I would expect to make as a diesel tech (with a degree not a certificate)?


I don't know what a diesel tech would make, different trade than me. I'm a stationary engineer and member of the International Union of Operating Engineers Local 501. Average "strip contract wage pkg" is about $25 hr and $5 hr in the pension fund and med. ins. is included with no premiums, you go to the doctor and pay the co-pay that's it, I got three kids and a wife on my coverage and no extra money taken from my check for their coverage. I got the hmo so scrips are 7, visits 25 secialist 50. The co-pays are a little high but when you retire you're still covered, so basically we pay extra on co-pays to cover the retirees.




House prices however still SUCK here big time. Nowadays the 30k stink holes in the gang neighborhood across the street from the cemetary downtown are going in the 200's-300's. Makes me wonder how anyone would buy there at all, and how the "crackheads" can affordremain there to insure it remains a stinkhole.



I'd wait on the market as I see many houses, even in my neighborhood that are empty and have the doors sealed with the eviction notice from the constable's office, my tract only has 68 homes in it and I counted 10 of 'em this way the last time I passed out the wife's avon brochures.



Stupid people got really bad arm loans and intrest only loans and were told "take it and refinance in a year or two" by the realitors and now houses in my neighborhood have dropped an average of 80k + in value and these people are stuck because they're upsidedown and the banks won't refi them, my house pre-con 509k now same model with 45kmore upgrades than mine offered at 440k in an open house.



The foreclosures are stacking up out here, so wait and watch, and when the banks are stuck with an overwelming inventory they'll have to liquidate fast nomatter what the cost. Last Friday on channel 8 news they reported that Las Vegas was #7 on the top 10 worst markets/ over inflated markets.



The medainwage here is still only $9hr so the market can't bear the median price of 300k for long. Only 5 years ago you coulda got a 3ksqft home here in the low 200's now they run in the 500k-2.5mil depending on the neighborhood.



If ya do move down here we got a couple of NASCAR races and lot's of drag racing events at the speedway and strip, we still have run what ya brungon Fri&Sat nights too. Just don't run an 11 because they'll tell ya not to come back without a roll cage and five points.



I got an instructor at the union hall that is a jeep freak, his jeep looks like a rock crawler, they do trails of all diffuculty levels and this guy loves all things 4x4 if ya do come down here I'll hook ya up with him, he knows all the good trails far and near, mostly far though because around here most places are govt. off limits.



Don't mind my long-windedness too much as my inlaws begged me to move in with them about a yearagobecause the can't make their 3500mo mortgage payment and they drive me nuts[sm=icon_beat.gif]
But what the hell my cut's only 600mo.



Well good luck MG and if ya do come out here I'll buyya a cold one, and help you install a swamp cooler in your garage so ya won't have to sweat it wrench'n on the D at 108F, that was the temp of my garage this afternoon[sm=badbadbad.gif]
 
  #147  
Old 08-16-2007 | 09:35 PM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

I had a bee cool daul fan setup worked ok had problems when i pulle a 18' enclosed trailer in 100 deg heat but what finised it off was driving down the river tried a 16" wouldnt keep it cool with out the air on in 80 deg wether went back to stock
 
  #148  
Old 08-16-2007 | 10:25 PM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

That would pretty much sums things up why you never see a Efan setup in heavy duty trucks and even light trucks. When tolling something moderate, the Efan will not suffice. But I seen some serious EFan setup designed for trucks. But at a cost. I cannot remember which company made a Efan for dodge HD trucks, but it was a dual 15 inch puller with up to 6000 CFM's. At a pretty price of nearly $600. Low amperage draw for such high CFM's at around 29 amps. this dual Efan was designed for a 5.9 cummins. If this dual efan can cool a hard working cummins, it should not even break a sweat for a gas 5.9 engine.
 
  #149  
Old 08-16-2007 | 11:44 PM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

If you want CFM draw the perma-cool high performance series 12" & 14" are the ticket. I'm still hung up on which size to use as the 12's would fit better than the 14's.

After calling perma-cool to get the correct specs on these fans, here's what they said they could do as pullers, which they say in the puller configuration an e-fan is 80% more effective than a pusher.

PN. 19008 12" fan pulls 3000 CFM @ 2400 RPM @ 7.5 amps; dimensions 12.5"hX12"wX3.75thick
You could run two of these simultaniously for 6000 CFM @ 15 amp draw not bad! at a cost of $100 per fan.

PN 19114 14" fan pulls 2950 CFM @ 1800 RPM @ 9.5 amps; dimensions 14"hX14"wX3.75"thick
You could run two of these simultaniously for 5900 CFM @ 19 amp draw at a $120 per fan.

The thing I fear with the 14's is fit, the stock D's radiator's core surface area is about19"X26" correct me if I'm wrong, so to make up the 2" difference you'd have to fabricate a custom shroud and mountings in a "^" shaped configuration center pointing slightly towards the block to take up the 2" difference and still pull air only through the core. This is supposing there's enough room to do so.

I found this stuff in my research for the aluminum radiator build that I started a post on some time ago.
 
  #150  
Old 08-16-2007 | 11:52 PM
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Default RE: Elec Fan Update

Kinda sad to see the 14 inchers not do better than the 12's. But I guess this may be intentionally as the RPM's are lower, they may have done this to reduce noise levels? Some of the oversized dual fans are tilted in a diagnol from upper corner to lower corner to maximize fan size space and fit.

Here'slink for a company that builds efans for dodge trucks.

http://www.drivetrain.com/flexfan/dodgemonster.html

I think these are actually flex-a-lite monster fans:

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...-electric.html

Only thing that prevents me to going to a Efan is that I may have to lose my shroud and my shroud has the coolant, and windshield coolant containers on them. Don't want to lose them and it will not give the stock OEM look.
 


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