From B&M's site
"70274 - SuperCooler rated at 29,200 BTU 11"x11"x1-1/2" (Racing model doesn't include installation components and has female 1/2 NPT fittings). Can also be used for all fluid cooling needs."

Cess, there aint no way the oem aux. trans cooler can do what the above one does and at about $100 a pop (oem core at Mopar wholesale costs $217). I believe the numbers B&M are giving don't count adding the 1250 CFM 10" fan I was talking about adding.MY suggestion was to add the above cooler and fan and to absolutely not run any trans oil through the main radiator because it takes away from the main radiator's cooling capacity by means of the the heat generated from the trans. I think the oem cooler is only an addon and plumbed is series with the main radiator, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Anyhow if you want to ditch the clutch fan for e-fans and plan on towwing I think ditch the mark fan and build the setup with way more cooling capacity than even the clutch fan has.I'm an engineer by trade and like "bullet proof stuff" and I'm pretty sure the setup I researched and parted together should be more than enough to do the job. I'm going to set my D up just like this with the addition of an inline 55GPM electric water pump and a 31"X19"X1" 2row tig welded side tubs 100% aluminum cross-flow radiator(stock is 2 row aluminum core plasic side tubs that will eventually blow out).The number one thing that you should be concerned with is cooling capacity and though the build I speak of aint easy, it has cooling capacity that far out measures that of those prefab twin fan setups and also requires only a fraction of the amp draw on the vehicle's electrical system witch is the second most important aspect of doing this, because you can have the uber fan from hell, but it won't work if the electrical system can't carry the load.

Anyway if you have the stock aux trans cooler, upgrading to the B&M one I mentioned even without doing anything else will add cooling capacity to the system in leaps and bounds from stock.

If you don't have the stock one this will be a serious improvement 10 times over.

Just pop the hood and follow the lines, I if it looks like you have 3 sepperate "radiators" you got one.
It will look like this: Biggest; the radiator; next size down condenser coil (for AC); smallest; aux trans cooler.If not the second one is the condenser coil.

 

Zuk, I'm a certified card hold'n sob from the I.U.O.E. Local 501. HAVCR/MVAC&MVAC like EPA 608 Universal card & EPA 609 card, ICC Clark County Journeyman Electrician card holder, tig, mig, stick, and oxy/acetlene welder, plumber, plant man ( boilers, chillers, cooling towers, heat exchangers loop and domestict hot water pumps, pneumatic controls........ ) currently the watertreatment man overseeing the entire plant and I'm not even finished with my apprenticeship.

Anyways enough about trade stuff as all that only nets $25hr, I make more fix'n ac's on the side.
If you get a 4'X7' sheet of I wanna say 20 or maybe 22 gauge aluminum, cut out all the tabs, bend it on the sheet break and weld ityourself you'll come out was cheapper and have exactly what you want, this is also assuming you have access to a plasma cutter and a good tig machine ( I do).

Why aluminum? because it's lighter than stainless and plain steel will rust, suck part is aluminum's a bitch to cut and to weld, does a real good job of dissappearing if you're not careful.

 

I went ahead and changed my t-stat last night before I head to the falls this weekend. I didn't have time before I tried the efan. Now I wish I had, it was a 195. i don't know how the hell it got in there. I distinctly remember putting a 180 in it. well, now it has a 180, but how much would that of changed my results with the efan not cooling enough?

 

Cess, if you don't have the proper cooling capacity, the difference between a 180 and a 195 t-stat is meaningless. This is because the t-stat is designed to "open on rise". The 180 opens when the temp of the coolant in the engine block rises to or above 180 degF and closes when the temp drops below this 180degF set point.

So if you're overheating and the t-stat is opening at set point, it means the system's capacity can't handle the load. The motor is generating more heat than the cooling system is capable of removing.

Could mean a lot of things, for you I hope it's just at-stat stuck closed.

However it could mean the fan isn't passing enough air through the radiator for sufficiant heat exchange,airpockets in the system, water pump issues, orblocked coil( hose the fins on the radiator down to remove debris blocking airflow).

My personal opinion is the mark fan don't cut it for your application.

Read my previous posts and you can find the fans at summit and jegs and the trans cooler at preformance center.com and at summit.

The fan specs on the 12" that I spoke of differ by website so I called PermaCool directly and spoke to some one in engineering and design and they confirmed that the 12" fan draws 3000CFM @ 7.5amps 12VDC.

I'm also going for an all aluminum rad , 2 row cross flow, because the stock rad has plastic side tubs that are notorious for blowing out in the Vegas heat. DFW eat your heart out, at 3pm on 08/30/2007 the temps I faced in traffic on my commute home were above 117degF, this is what kills those stupid plastic radiators, every vehicle I've owned in Vegas blew the plastic rad in the summer, exaclty what blew was the seal between the side tub and the core.

Well Cess, if ya got the extra change lay'n around and lots of hours to wrench try my idea, if not, I'll post my results with pics in around 6 months to a year.

Build cost not counting misc such as custom hoses fittings etc major parts only. 2 12" efans $100EA, 1 10" efan $90,1 universal fit 2 row crossflow aluminum rad $180, 11"X11" racing trans cooler $100, 3 adjustableefan temp controls around $300 total. Comes to about $890 just in major parts so will most likely run a few bucks over a grand when all said and done, but what the hell you get what you pay for.

I'm gonna save and wait because I might buy a new Challenger as a happy b-day to me present for fun and keep the D for cart'n the kids around in.

 

Just wanted to let everyone know that the factory EFan does come on at preset temperatures. I just experienced this tonight when I let the durango idle for over 30 minutes while checking the fluidson my new replacement fastman tranny as well as testing the headlight bulbs using my new clear lenses. I heard the E-Fan kicked on! The A/C was not running. I immediately went to look at my temp gauge thinking it was overheating, but it was not. It was holding at around 180 mark as usual. It ran for about 5-10 minutes and then it just kicked itself off.

 

Hey gang. It's been a while and the hot times are only a few short months away. So... let's open this up and start looking for updates.

How are the efans working for everyone?

My plan for next month: Replace radiator with new one, remove clutch fan permanently, install new MarkVIII that I already have here, remove old all-in-one shroud permanently, add chrome overflow and washer fluid bottles to make up for their loss in the stock shroud, add 5" chrome shroud over the top half and sides of the efan, retain stock lower shroud section. I have the trans cooler and oil cooler already since I had a towing package (but do not tow.) I may replace the coolers too with new since I will be working on it all right then and there.

How does that sound?

Are the instructions from Kensai to Cess on page 9 of this thread the accepted and accurate ones to use?

What efan controller worked the best and would be needed in Kensai's illustration?

Thanks in advance for the info guys! At 12 pages, perhaps this will wrap up the thread all in one post? "Fingers-crossed!"

IndyDurango

 

New guy here,
Does the mark VII fan fit the 4.7 or just the 5.9??

 

Its been a while since i have been here, but I am JUST now tackling this old topic and for the life of me, I can not find the diagram that I saved from here (above). Is there anyway someone can send this diagram to me? My D is in pieces and I can't find the diagram!!!!

 

Hey has anyone actually measured the amp draw on the MarkVIII? I just called Torqflo inquiring what my problem may be and they asked how many amps it pulled. They said if it draws too many amps I'll fry the relay. I'm not sure how that would allow the fan to stay running unless the switch welds itself together. I'm going to see if I can measure it at school tomorrow but I dunno if I'll be able to get a good reading before I fry a fuse in the Flukes they have. They are fused at 10 amps.

 

The Lincoln Mark VIII fan will draw continuous currents of 33A@12.0V & 42A@14.4V, and has a starting current in excess of 100A.

IndyDurango