Thanks Indy!

 

No problem HS. I got your back especially when you are catching flak for giving out correct advise. Thanks for the thanks!

IndyD

 

wow this site is just full of chey mechanics. and if your d does not run with a low battery or without one at all then you have other problems. and if you would take the time and look at an electrical diaghram for that d you will see that the voltage regulator is contained directly withing the pcm. if you do not have access to these, i will gladly scan them and send them to you.

 

I do believe 01dakota440 is right. The votage regulator is contained within thePCM. At least that's what my manual says. (Haynes #30022).

 

Dude there is a backup in the PCM.

Look at a diagram of the alternator. Look at the wiring. Look at the open loop. Now think about it for a second.

I have solved more problems with spikes than meets the eye here.

Now they will run like ****! We never said it wouldn't run. Dude if ya don' believe me then take YOURS OFF. The electrial issues with our rigs backfires into the system. Put a bad battery in your rig and tell me the truck will run the same?????? Or remove YOUR CABLE and see how your truck runs.

Before you give advise, you might want to test this out on your own rig!

Now if you have something lets see it! And why you are at it look into the alternator! You can't base your argument between our "chey mechanics" unless you too have been around the block.

Now I'm not trying to discredit. But you need to read back through this thread and understand everything that was said.

 

well i didn't have to do this but i did anyway. i started all of the 1st gen durangos and 2nd gen dakotas here at the shop, then pulled the battery on each one. and then drove each one about ten miles. i drove slow and fast, stopped and started. and gave each one a wholeshot run on the way back to the shop. not a single one missed a beat, backfired, or stummbled. but since hydrashocker is a moderator, he has final say on everything. i think this will be my post for this topic. oh and his buddy indyd did say "The D won't run with a low battery worth a ****... simply try to get it to run without one at all."

 

No my friend. I am not trying to argue. My words aren't the last ones.

So what you are saying is that you removed the battery or connections and ran the trucks. They ran like grand champions with no feed back like everyone else has had?

This is a bold move, but thanks for your intake. So did the trucks bog down a little when you removed the battery? I haven't known any vehicle that dosen't. I find this hard to swallow.

Also did you check the voltage? This is a bold move because these trucks that you tested your ideas on aren't yours. They sound like they are someones elses or soon to be. Glad I didn't buy it.

Now there have been many, many instances where this has came up and all of the trucks have been fixed and all that have this same problem. Low or bad batterys and other problems.

Now there is something you forgot. What vehical motors did you test, years, and what are they equipted with?

 

all 7 vehicals are owned by my shop, all are 97-2001 daks/durangos with magnum v8s except one has a v6. and since we rebuild alternators here at the shop insted of buy new or remaned. i have put new bearings and brushes in quite a few of them. and i have never seen a regulator in a single one. here at my shop we only work on 1st gen durangos 2nd gen dakotas and rams that have the 3rd gen 5.2/5.9 engines. when your voltage regulator dies, you have to replace the pcm. that all there is to it. i have seen some people wire in an external regulator. and i you have a bog problem you should look into the exciter.

 

hydrashocker, what "open" loop are you refering to? I'm looking in my Haynes and i'm not seeing any reference to an open loop.

In modern chrysler charging systems the field current (which i believe you are talking about) to the alternator is controlled by the PCM, this allows the alternator to produce power. this is alsoyour voltage regulator. Modern charging systems do not overproduce. They produce the required amount of power to operate all the electrical systems on the vehicle. the more demand ie. turning lights on, low battery the more power produced. less demand, less power produced. Putting the voltage regulator in the alternator is 80's and 90's tech.

I do agree that disconnecting the battery when the engine is running is not wise. I had a situation about a year ago where i had run my battery dead because i left a 12v cooler plugged in overnite, after jump starting it i had problems for the next 2 weeks with the vehicle doing weird things like dash lights flashing, doors locking and unlocking without being switched. It ended up being the battery. While replacing the battery i did notice that the engine would die when i disconnected the battery. Long story short, i learned that a low battery can cause problems. The PCM is sensitive to battery voltage. After putting a fresh battery in, no more problems.

Here is a great article on DIAGNOSING COMPUTER-CONTROLLED CHARGING SYSTEMS.
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...9/ai_n21033508

 

thanks jeff66, i will fully agree with you. we are both new to this site, but that doesn't mean were new to working on things. oh and i to have had the vehical stall when battery was pulled, but a quick rebuild of the alternator, and it would run without at battery. and agian i'm not telling people to run their cars without a battery. and the reason to not undo the battery while the key is on, is that you may cause arcing. which could cause faults in the system