These are older members and an older thread so I think they are gone. To this day I haven't seen them and the thread has settled down.

Lets try and keep it clean. I opened this thread because of great info and I don't want to continue the fighting. Lets try to keep it clean and let members access the info.


Thanks,

-Rustin-

 

Re-direct post for HiJackZX1 question:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...r-install.html

 

Well, I have read this thread. Since I am relatively new to doing any sort of work on Durango's, I am not going to refute anything said by the moderator...lol. I too have seen the force of an electrical gremlin on my 99 with 5.2. I drove it 2 days, no problems, left my car charger plugged in for about 3 hours, and go turn the key..nothin. motor made a half hearted attempt to turn over. So I pull up my car, jump it..fires right up, runs perfect, drove it around town..perfect...shut it of, then..nothing again. I am gonna get it running today and take it to the parts store, have them run a test see what I got going on. Hopefully it's something simple, because even as simple as hydra made it look on the changing the starter thread...why hide bolts? c'mon dodge engineers..your killing me

 

Ok so I 1/2 read throught this thread and had my other ear/eye on jeopardy..My EVR is located within the PCM MR. HS I was hoping you could help..I know you say there are no stupid q's but this is as close as it gets...Is it my bat or alt or BOTH bad? Truck started, tack showed low volts...drove approx 5 miles..volts got lower & lower...ck gauges light came on...almost home & no turn sig, then no gauges at all, wanted to stall, worked the gas/break peds to prevent it from stlling and pulled in the driveway & stalled...no juice at all...so do you think they're both shot? made it home on bat power (bat date 10/09 btw) denso alt is in there now, I'm not sure if it ever been replaced (1998 267k)?? could it last that long?? sorry for all the Q's...will take both to the AP store for testing...just wondering what you think...or anyone else...Thank you!!

 

Honestly, IMO if the alt is true to its age i would suspect that as the culprit also with it not staying charged and the gauges dieing But, with that said if it where me i would replace BOTH. Simply because if your alt was not keeping up a charge to the battery all the cycles of charged and then drained most likely could have killed a few cells. You can test it yourself with a mulitmeter at home if you like. get her running and put the red lead on the pos terminal and the black lead on the negative terminal. with it running you should be getting a reading of around 13.8 volts. shut it down and you should be able to hold around 12.5 volts. As myself and Hydrashocker can contest too... never trust a parts store battery test... i have had and seen a few come back "good battery" on there little tester but, after replacement of the battery the issues are solved and the battery really was toast.

Also, before doing anything make sure all of your connections are clean and tight. I have a friend (who is a idiot) that called me up on day and told me he needed my help his car won't start. he told me if you jump it it runs fine but, once you turn it off its dead. Then he says i took it to Autozone and the TECH there told me my battery and alt where shot..lol so while i was there i decided to pick one up (bang head here)

Go over there to look at it that evening, pop the hood and the battery terminals are so dirty he has Corrosion grown on top of more Corrosion on his terminals. Took about a half hour and cleaned up the posts on the battery with a wire brush and put on new terminals and she fired right up and been running ever since. Now he has a brand new alt and battery that he didnt need sitting in his trunk and our Autozone will not take back electrical stuff once it leaves the store...

 

Thanks for getting back to me so quick! I cleaned the terminals when I did the plenum (they were good but did them anyways, not overkill just a sense of knowing their good to go) put new term pads on too..checked the connections, ground and all seem good...I haven't tried but I'm expecting the bat won't accept/hold a jump, IDK I will try tho...And yeah I'm kinda worried about them bench testing the bat/alt too...thought about it all nite/morning and was planning on doing what you said and replacing both..my only other concern is if I do that and it turns out that I also have a going bad/or bad voltage regulator will it damage the new bat/alt? I know the EVR is in the PCM and I have no clue how to test it, if there even is a way to test it..Thank you for the advice!!

 

Would a scan tool pull a code for a bad voltage regulator?

 

here's a good website for info on batteries and alternators...good read and maybe you'll get the info you need before asking..

http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm

http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/cm10220.htm

 

Your voltage regulator is built into the alt. so replacing the alt. should get you a new VR. check out post # 7...

 

My fault should have mentioned '2nd gen ram'...I know I'm in the durango area here, but unfortunately mine is located within the PCM..And that's why I was wondering how it would/could be tested..and also if it could be done via a scan tool? I only wish it was located in the alt or at least externally mounted to the well or something..would save the headache and possible cost of replacing the PCM..still trying to figure out if the new bat/alt could be damaged by a bad EVR? Also the EVR is not a separate component, aka can't be serviced separately..so if it's bad, bye, bye PCM...