agreed, after looking at the circuit i don't see anything that would cause the engine to stall if the battery was removed from the circuit. maybe it's time for me to check the belt and the alternator in my d.

 

Hey there noob1 and noob2... do us all a favor and stop giving out the wrong information. Take the time to learn your vehicle before you try to "help" others.

We are trying to tell you that... YOUR D WILL NOT RUN CORRECTLY AT LOW RPMs WITH LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE FROM A BAD BATTERY. This is independent from the alternator.
Verify it for yourself by learning how to use the SEARCH function here - https://dodgeforum.com/forumid_110/tt.htm
or here - http://www.durangoclub.com/forum/
or here - http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/index.php?

Folks, simply believe those with thousands of posts and tens of thousands of reads or those with 13 and 36 posts respectively.
Simply believe those that pay to support this site or the leaches that pop in with misinformation.
If that isn't enough for you... perhaps you can believe the "Durango Section Moderator" who usually knows a thing or three about ... eh... a... Durango!
Take your pick of the above as to who has a higher level of expertise in D related topics.

BTW, WTF are "chey mechanics". LOL

IndyD

 

i would love to be a cash contributor for this site, just point me to the link to pay. oh i did misspell chevy mechanic.

 

hey indy, i'm not posting wrong info here. your buddy is the one that did that. i'm pretty much in agreement with every thing that was said except what hydra said about the voltage regulator. i do research before i post, if i do post something wrong i will correct myself and admit my mistake. i don't need to call anybody names. I find it imature.

"We are trying to tell you that... YOUR D WILL NOT RUN CORRECTLY AT LOW RPMs WITH LOW BATTERY VOLTAGE FROM A BAD BATTERY. This is independent from the alternator."

once the engine is running all power for all systems is supplied by the alternator, the battery is nothing but a load on the system at this point, it is not needed. but if it is bad (low) it's going to draw more from the system than normal causing voltage fluctuations and possibly spikes. if alternator output is sufficent the engine is going to run. my d ran fine with a low battery, i had absolutly no problems with engine performance. no codes. the only problem i had was flashing lights and door locks. i suggest you go get a book on ac/dc electrical principal and read it before you become an electrical expert.

I came to this web site because it was advertized to be free, i could care less if you contribute cash to this site, it dosen't make what you say more true. it doesn't make you more qualified to give advice. The only thing it tells me is that you spend a lot of time in front of your computer. Other than being a durango owner what qualifies you to decide who's advice is good and who's is bad? Qualify yourself Indy.

 

lol thanks jeff, oh and what is the 66 in your site name for. i just sold a 66 dodge coronet 440.

 

girlfriend was born in 66

 

Jeff, I hate to tell you that EACH AND EVERY ONE of your above statements are incorrect. You do not have to believe me or anyone else. Just stop asking for 'free' help then from 'free' sites you don't choose to support because I assure you they are not free to run, manage or maintain. You statements there are hypocritically shallow.

Actually, I done with this topic. Simply stated, for the 10th time... regardless of being an electrical expert, regardless of defying common sense, regardless of folks like me spending our time trying to help folks like YOU who ask for help and then refuse to accept the answers provided when they don't fit your preconceived notions of right and wrong (makes one wonder why you asked in the first place if you were not going to listen) and regardless of the actual reasons why we are right, IT IS CORRECT WHEN WE SAY THAT... your D, my D, anyone's D will not run properly at low idle with a perfect frackin' brand new alternator and a bad battery.

If you can't see any of that... then you can't see the frustration in HShocker's and my's posts when dealing with issues like this stupid one then you AND I will never learn to get past things like this.

IndyDurango <--- has probably forgotten more Durango lore that most dozen Durango owners all put together collectively know. AND PROUD OF IT.

 

Dude now you are a electrical expert????? You don't even know what a "Open Loop" is......LOL

Now It's my turn....

The alternator is on a open loop. Open your hood and look! Where does the main power go first? Second where does it go. Come on look into the schematics. No the "exciter" is not the problem nor is the magnetic field, nor the stator, nor slip rings or bushings, nor rectification.
So what controls the output on a alternator???????????.....How about a rectifier bridge and the voltage regulator.....But sounds like you guys know all about Y and L Contacts, Diodes, isolating Diodes, and Stators.

Now I didn't want to get into the wiring contacts loops and alternating coils-contacts. But I guess we can go there.

Yes the main voltage regulator THAT CONTROLS the L contact on the alternator is in the PCM. But what you guys don't seem to get is the Stator Coils controls voltage outputs needed by way of the Voltage Regulator. Many of us deem this as the Regulator. So sorry for the miss print. Most of everyone here is not an expert in electronic engineering. From the sounds of how this thread is going, you guys aren't one either.

99% of all the problems concluding the "alternator" is fixed by replacing the worn out parts. The parts include the battery, wiring, or alternator. These parts are cheap and can be taken back if not the problem. Now if you compare installing a new PCM (which is not returnable) and needs to be flashed by the dealer which is about an $750 repair versus a $60 repair that like I said is "returnable" and is most likely 99% of the problem unethical then you have issues!

The reason this forum is here is to help people out. This includes an alternative to paying for things that the consumer doesn't need. The out come to this is saving the average consumer some needed cash. Some of us here spend a lot of time pouring over many issues. Not all the time we are right, but we sure give it our all. Remember that we can only give information out under what is told to us.

Some of us have been around here for many moons and have given capital, know how, and our precious time into helping the average person like you. Sometimes even taking in criticism. No we are not perfect. But everyone needs to lesson.

This thread is going no ware so I am closing it out! So yes I get the final word.

Now there is absolutely no TSB's that say to take the battery cable off while running any vehicle so DON'T DO IT!


Get it tested only!

 

Seeing that this thread is older and has some great info as well as it being introduced into the DIY I am re-instating it.......

Please keep this thread clean!

 

I stand by hydra and indy 100%
JEFF66... you must understand that on a super low charge batt any "D" no matter 4.7, 5.2, or 5.9 they all run like crap when jump started or just alone.
Look under the hood check your positive batt post. there are wires that go to the alternator and the main fuse box. This is not the setup from back in 66. there is more than 5 wires for the engine to run smoothly
Do this with your "D" of let the headlights run your batt dead to the point where it needs to be jump started.
then get a jump start . you will notice how crappy it runs from start up to the point where it runs smooth.