Hello to all......

I've got a delima that I need help with. I own a 00 DD 5.9L V8 4x2 with 85,000 miles on it. This morning on my way to work, after I started the D and started to drive off, the truck would not shift from first to second. After5200 rpm the tranny shifted into second. The rest of the gears are working fine with no knocking or hard shifting. I continued to drive, thinking my synthetic fluid is just cold, and it did not get any better. The shifting is only from getting out of first to second that my transmission has problems. It's also jerking slightly (kinda like when you tow a vehicle and speed up during slow acceleration). Tranny was serviced with 55k on it. Was told everything was fine.

It gets better. I stopped at a gas station for fuel this morning after this happened. When I was finished pumping gas, I jumped back in the D to start and drive off. Well, I turned the key but no ignition. Plenty of power to everything. I checked all fuses (all AOK) Put the truck in neutral moved it a few feet. Still wouldn't start. No codes are showing up. I take the drive selector handle to shift through P to 2 three times. I put it in P, removed the key, re-inserted the key, and it started right up. But, the tranny is still waiting until close to 5000 rpm before shifting into second.

WTF is wrong with it???? Any suggestions?

 

Nifty:

#1 Have your battery load tested, and if it is the least bit flaky replace it. Our D's will do weird things like this when the battery is on its way out.

#2. Sounds like your TPS may be going bad. Takes about 10 min to replace it. ~$40 at AZ.

My bet is that one or both of these are your problem.

Good luck........................ Don

 

Hey Nifty,
I had a similar problem a few years ago with my 98 4x4, though yours may be completely different this may be worth a try!
Towards the rear of the tranny, on the left side you will find the output shaft speed sensor. Jack up the back of the car and support it securely, disconnect the wiring plug to this sensor and remove it, you will leak very little if any tranny fluid. Clean the end of the sensor with a clean, lint free rag, then refit, reconnect and take it for a drive. This worked for me when I had the exact same problem that you describe!
I now clean this sensor every time I service my tranny!
Hope this helps you!
Steve

 

Could be the output sensor like he said.

I am wondering about the adjustment on the trans to the shifting column.

I would service the trans very fast. You might have a sensor hung up alowing this problem. The more you wait, the more posibility of metal fragments becoming andthe trans might be on the way out. A costly mistake. I would have the filter, fluid, and band adjustment done for sure as well. Most shops will do this for about $150. Just make sure it's a great shop first.

 

This problem sounds like a Governor actuator switch went bad. My D did the same thing. It won't shift from 1st to 2nd until it hit hear redline. I had to force upshift by manually shifting. But luckily for me my check engine light came on with a code. While my D was still under warranty, the dealer said the governor actuator switches went out.

 

The D is at AAMCO right now..........

Report I got from the mechanic working on my D. They found the colum shift linkage was too loose, they also found the neutral park switch that both the colum linkage and the throttle cable connect to the tranny is loose. Apparently, when the tranny is installed it's pressed into the vave body of the transmission. Over time, loose linkages and aggressive driving have cause this to wear and become loose enough you can wiggle it with your fingers. He told me, that if the switch wiggles when I try to put the vehicle into a gear, it malfunctions causing the failed ignition in park. When I put in into neutral, the switch will recognize that change and allow the vehicle to start. Also, if when I accelerate at a faster rate, the switch will aslo wiggle causing that laggy feeling (like when you tow a vehicle). He told me that it will also make thecomputer think that my foot's to the floor, causing the delayed gear shift to second because (as with all egines when you get up on it, downshifts to get more horsepower). So, if I'm in first, it will cause me to stay in first but at a higher RPM.

Now, the only question is wether or not I can replace the senor by itself, or will I have to buy a new valve body for the tranny. I'll find out on Monday.

 

Should just be the sensor. The cable might need to be replaced. Either one.

I would service the trans while it's there. Make sure that they do not put the multi vehical trans fluid in there. Make sure they only put the right fluid back in. Even if you have to pay a higher amount.

 

Yea,

Well, I just my my D back from the shop. Here's the report: My second gear rings were cracked and one of them was broken in pieces found laying in my tranny pan. I had a leaking front main seal. The neutral switch was fried and the new on had to be pressed in. I had a complete re-build. I'm talking eveything removed and replaced besides the actual transmission case (housing). All seals, plates, senors, switches, torque converter, valve body, new tranny pan, piston rings.... everything replaced. Cost: $2389.98

The truck is working beautifully. It's shifting perfectly, but I do note a stronger more noticable jerk when the tranny goes from 1-2 and then to 3rd with a smooth transfer from 3-4 and 4-5. Is this normal?? I've got a lifetime warranty on the transmission now so I never have to worry about this problem again. The truck is acting like a kid again..... Now, if I could only get rid of the embarrasing squeaking noise coming from the fornt end and the vibration on the right front wheel when I turn right.

 

Nice to see ya up and going.

They gave you a good deal in my opinion. If they installed a shift kit or modified the trany valve body than this would make the trans shift like this. It is acually better on the trans to shift like that into gear. OEM does this smoothly but wears out the clutch pads as it slowly engages. A faster shift = less ware. I would install a after market trans cooler to protect your investment. I currently run 2 of them.

The squeak is most likely the sway bar bushings need to be replaced. There are 4 bushings on the front end. Replace or lubricate them.

The vibration could be a wheel bearing.

 

Nifty:

+2 on being up and running again. The lifetime warranty is also a good thing if it is worth its salt.

The moment I saw the word AAMCO though, I just knew you were going to end up with a new tranny. Not to say that all AMMCO's are bad, but years ago Dad and I took our 74 Gremlin to a local AAMCO with simple leaking cooler line. They tried to get us to let them pull the tranny for "further diagnosis."

We told them to button it back up with a new filter and fluid, and sold the car years and miles later with the same tranny. BTW, the leak turned out to be a loose fitting where the line attached to the tranny.

Don