How to improve MPG
#31
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shrpshtr325 (02-25-2020)
#32
If you are trying to save gas money, then you don't want to spend more than you will quickly recover in mpg savings. Even a drop-in K&N will probably cost too much to recoop the cost in mpg savings.
Here is my list of 5 things:
1. New plugs.
2. New air filter.
3. Increase tire pressure to max pressure allowed by tire and check tire pressures weekly.
4. Keep your foot out of it while you accelerate.
5. Slow down. 60 mph will get you probably 1 mpg more than 70 will.
If you are really that worried about it, buy a Honda.
Here is my list of 5 things:
1. New plugs.
2. New air filter.
3. Increase tire pressure to max pressure allowed by tire and check tire pressures weekly.
4. Keep your foot out of it while you accelerate.
5. Slow down. 60 mph will get you probably 1 mpg more than 70 will.
If you are really that worried about it, buy a Honda.
.
the suggestion listed here for tire inflation, will only serve to wear the centers of the tread out to nothing with still seemingly plenty of tread on the edges. when they made the tire, the tire mfr had no clue what it would be used on. You DEFINITELY don't want to do this if you run higher load range tires...… the Durango don't weigh any more with P rated tires on it than it does with load range D or E. which say on the tire 65 or 80PSI, respectively. any fuel savings will be spent on buying tires more often.
Several have been trying to talk me into a computer flash, of which I have been reluctant to do. Currently my engine is dead stock, but heads have been replaced with EQ's, when this engine was put in a few thousand miles ago. also have 4.7 injectors, were a must/ as that's all I had around, and a couple of stuck injectors was what killed the original engine. (washed out the cylinders/rings) 138k on engine in it now (262k on body) I have a set of 1.7 RRs sitting here, and a set of stainless shorty headers (IDK what brand, but they have never been mounted and found them for a steal on CL.....) and I am looking to put these parts on (got the RRs and hardened pushrods from a buddy that built his 360 in his pickup into a 408 and went a different direction with his valvetrain than 1.7s afterwards-- so he gave those to me) daily driven, about 60% open road, 40& in town stop and go... most of that 40% driven "softly" by my wife.... I occasionally pull a trailer with it..... plan to run the wheels off of it.... looking to see what "tunes" I can get, to max out power and mileage.... I know it will never be great on mileage but want it "the best it can be for what it is"..... his thing did surprise me with fantastic mileage (for what it is) around 20 mpg with the original engine still in it, on a road trip we took to Houston.... seems like it did its best on MPG on the miles I drove on gas bought outside my home state (Illinois) as weird as that may sound.
Last edited by volaredon; 02-23-2020 at 10:37 PM.
#33
02 Dakota 4.7 Quadcab, 4X4 180K miles I just changed the ORIGINAL plugs on my 4.7. The electrodes were not even stubs. Amazing though, the engine always stated with just a click of key, ran smooth, idled at 500 on the tach with no vibration, passed emission but gas mileage has always been poor, I begged for 17mpg on the highway across Kansas. I track gas mileage with every fill up. I am anxious to see if millage changes. Truck always had good power out of the hole but not much past 60 mph. I pull a small 1500lb popup. Really not much extra power at highway speed.
I removed the intake filter to get easy access to the spark plugs. There is a black tar on the throttle body right after the throttle plate. What is that stuff? Where did it come from? Is it worth getting ride of?
I attribute the engine running great with no electrode left to the coil on the plug. That technology must be amazing.
I removed the intake filter to get easy access to the spark plugs. There is a black tar on the throttle body right after the throttle plate. What is that stuff? Where did it come from? Is it worth getting ride of?
I attribute the engine running great with no electrode left to the coil on the plug. That technology must be amazing.
#35
#36
Any performance improvement will not pay for itself.
I found that when my coasting (65mph, downhill) would NOT show 30 mpg and better, a front O2 sensor restored that and potential for 21 mpg hypering. My theory is O2 not bad, just poisoned enough to always read high and call for more fuel.
I do the math all the time, trucks this capable are not yet worth the money in payments.
Enjoy your $600 truck, drop the collision, and daily drive something else!
I found that when my coasting (65mph, downhill) would NOT show 30 mpg and better, a front O2 sensor restored that and potential for 21 mpg hypering. My theory is O2 not bad, just poisoned enough to always read high and call for more fuel.
I do the math all the time, trucks this capable are not yet worth the money in payments.
Enjoy your $600 truck, drop the collision, and daily drive something else!
#37
My 5.9. I will never see anything north of 13-14 mpg on highway. At times, I may best at 16mpg only if trip is totaly on level roads. 10-11mpg in town. 5.9 are thirsty beasts. Then again, with performance upgrades, that did not help much either. Mostly the 4spd transmission takes alot of mpg out as well. not very efficient.
#38
My 5.9. I will never see anything north of 13-14 mpg on highway. At times, I may best at 16mpg only if trip is totaly on level roads. 10-11mpg in town. 5.9 are thirsty beasts. Then again, with performance upgrades, that did not help much either. Mostly the 4spd transmission takes alot of mpg out as well. not very efficient.