If everything is working good then leave it as long as there is no problems that you noticed.

 

If it isnt broke I wouldnt fix it. Turning the rotors if possible, if not, replace them. This is a rule of thumb with a brake job. If you slap on some pads with the old rotors you are subjecting the new pads to the imperfections of the old rototrs ( grooves, glazing). That may cause some squeal and or undue wear either immediately or in the near future. But since the the pads only have been replaced this would be a moot point. Just keep it in mind for future brake jobs. Another more serious concern with the rotors, is that they are designed to dissipate heat. If they are to thin they wont be able to handle the heat, hence warping. This will be especially be noticed by a pulsating pedal. This excessive heat will have to go somewhere....Pads,hardware,Seals,Fluid, none of which will appreciate it. Keep in mind that heat is one of the worst enemies to any automotive mechanical system. Todays factory rotors will generally give you enough meat(machining material) for a couple of pad replacements. But if you dont have any other problems and you are happy with the brakes thats all that matters. You can get by with just pads.

 

the warping on my dads truck was caused by not greasing the sliders on his brake calipers (he has the bigger set of brakes on his truck) and idk wth caused it on my truck, but it was used mostly on the highway in traffic so we figure the repeated 75/80-0 stops had something to do with it, and both trucks are only on their 2nd set of brakes at 80k(mine) and 92k(dads)

 

Thats what I was saying in lube points.

Knowing you there is a little more speed envolved than just slowin fro 80 mph.....

I stop about the same way you do I think and so far the best pads I found for my driving are DuraLast Gold Edition from Auto Zone and they work great for low dust. I bet I have 15k on em and only cleaned the rims twice. Now the rims arn't perfect but they look good. Question is:

How many times have you replaced the shoes on the rear? And when you did were they really worn down or were they just about time? If you are going through front pads quickly it's time for a remap of the braking system or you just bought crapy pads or other problem......

 

I'm about to change pads front and rear on a 2001 Durango SLT 4.7. I looked for a video on You Tube and found that I needed a 47T torx point to loosen the two calipher bolts. There's a little rubber or plastic cylinder over the top of each bolt, so I can't see how the torx point fits, but it doesn't seem to fit...doesn't catch the torx shape as I think it should. The video said the 47T applied to all first gen Durangos. Any chance I need a different point?

I've been looking to download a service manual (would probably answer my question and I was able to download a service manual for my wife's Caliber a year or so ago. Now, I see lots of service manual sites, including many that advertise free downloads (for example, Rapidshare), but I can't figure out how to download a 2001 4.7 SLT service manual. The game has changed. How does it work now?

 

generally i get my rotors turned when i change pads... if the rotors are bad enough i replace them... i had a failure on my drivers side caliper and my rotor came off with pretty much nothing left on it... since then ive replaced both calipers and rotors and pads on my front end... stops like a champ now

 

Srch, roger the rotor thing, but do you know anything about the torx point that gets the caliper bolts loose...or the service manual download that would probably specify that? It's hard to see inside that little rubber sleeve and my 47T torx point doesn't fit.

 

it depends because my rig used both torx and allen wrench ones... i believe the torx you need is a t45... thats the one ive been using.. its a little irritating as the manual doesn't give you bolt specifications for tools... i have the manual for my 98 durango and a 2000 durango

 

Great. The You Tube video specified a 47T torx point (in writing) for a 2002 Durango and indicated a 47T would also fit a 2001 Durango.

The video also said something about tightening to bolt to 30 ft lbs and showed the guy loosening one with 1/2 inch socket wrench...so I don't think an allen wrench would work.

Live and learn, I guess.

 

you can get allen wrench socket set... some aftermarket rotors use them... yeah there's a torque specification for those bolts but i dont have a torque wrench that fits back there so i just cinch it up good... haven't had any problems... i would try the t45 since the t47 didn't fit... basically those bolts hold the caliper in place and give it something to slide back and forth on with those rubber covers... i dont think the torque spec its vital just as long as you tighten down those bolts good... let me know if that works... if not ill check again and see what i can find out