All Electric Fan Swap + Much More
#11
06-10-2009, 12:39 AM
#12
06-10-2009, 11:34 AM
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#14
06-10-2009, 08:18 PM
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#16
06-11-2009, 01:23 AM
Alum? Yeppers!
Humidity? We get more than our far share in Indiana.
Amp draw. First, I went with the Taurus Fan instead of the Mark VIII. It is slightly less (very slightly) on the CFM, yet mega less on the amp draw. 3750 cfm at about 26 amps at full speed (38 spike at start up.) The Flex-a-lite VSC powers on at 60% automatically when needed AND if cooling is needed at startup, it has a built in 6 second delay to avoid issues at start up. IMHO, the VSC is the MUST COMBO for the electric setups.
The Mark VIII pulls 4300 cfm due to being an inch larger thus more fan blade surface to move air. However, at over double the amp draw at start up (nearly 90+ some say) and less than 500 CFM difference, the Taurus simply makes better overall sense for most. Severe cooling needs may justify the Mark VIII.
Plus, plus, plus... by design, I used adjustable fan-to-radiator mounts from BeCool and a separate fuse so I can accommodate ANY fan that fits under the hood on my setup as is! If I ever decide to swap up to the Mark VIII, Viper or a dual Flex-a-lite fan setup, it is basically plug and play for me now. I could do a fan swap in under a hour now
How about that!!
Regarding the Viper fan... the Viper has a 4600 max CFM for the price of $300+) or a Taurus new for less than $150/used for $25 or a used MarkVIII for under $50... how can you EVER justify the Viper fan?!?
At 85 degrees, and in town traffic driving after 5 hours on the interstate, my new setup has run exactly at the setting I have it set for. The VSC comes on a 180 at 60% and at 190 it kicks in 100% with the needle going no further from there. I can't wait for the sweltering high humidity with a few 100 degree Indiana August summer days to see how she does then. I am driving to Florida in two weeks. That may give me a sneak peak
Here are a few compare photos. You will see the MarkVIII fan, a Viper fan next to the stocker aux fan, and my Taurus fan. Also, here is a CFM/Amp chart for the Taurus and the MarkVIII.
Viper and aux Stocker
MarkVIII
My Taurus
Personally, I think the Taurus and the Viper blades and fan design look very similar. If the Taurus was bigger to match the Viper, it would out pull the Viper hands down.
and the compare charts:
MarkVIII
Taurus
Do I have any 'fans' yet. LOL
IndyDurango
Humidity? We get more than our far share in Indiana.
Amp draw. First, I went with the Taurus Fan instead of the Mark VIII. It is slightly less (very slightly) on the CFM, yet mega less on the amp draw. 3750 cfm at about 26 amps at full speed (38 spike at start up.) The Flex-a-lite VSC powers on at 60% automatically when needed AND if cooling is needed at startup, it has a built in 6 second delay to avoid issues at start up. IMHO, the VSC is the MUST COMBO for the electric setups.
The Mark VIII pulls 4300 cfm due to being an inch larger thus more fan blade surface to move air. However, at over double the amp draw at start up (nearly 90+ some say) and less than 500 CFM difference, the Taurus simply makes better overall sense for most. Severe cooling needs may justify the Mark VIII.
Plus, plus, plus... by design, I used adjustable fan-to-radiator mounts from BeCool and a separate fuse so I can accommodate ANY fan that fits under the hood on my setup as is! If I ever decide to swap up to the Mark VIII, Viper or a dual Flex-a-lite fan setup, it is basically plug and play for me now. I could do a fan swap in under a hour now
How about that!! Regarding the Viper fan... the Viper has a 4600 max CFM for the price of $300+) or a Taurus new for less than $150/used for $25 or a used MarkVIII for under $50... how can you EVER justify the Viper fan?!?
At 85 degrees, and in town traffic driving after 5 hours on the interstate, my new setup has run exactly at the setting I have it set for. The VSC comes on a 180 at 60% and at 190 it kicks in 100% with the needle going no further from there. I can't wait for the sweltering high humidity with a few 100 degree Indiana August summer days to see how she does then. I am driving to Florida in two weeks. That may give me a sneak peak
Here are a few compare photos. You will see the MarkVIII fan, a Viper fan next to the stocker aux fan, and my Taurus fan. Also, here is a CFM/Amp chart for the Taurus and the MarkVIII.
Viper and aux Stocker
MarkVIII
My Taurus
Personally, I think the Taurus and the Viper blades and fan design look very similar. If the Taurus was bigger to match the Viper, it would out pull the Viper hands down.
and the compare charts:
MarkVIII
Taurus
Do I have any 'fans' yet. LOL
IndyDurango
Last edited by IndyDurango; 06-11-2009 at 01:32 AM.
#17
06-11-2009, 10:29 AM
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#18
06-11-2009, 04:46 PM
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I'm curious where you got those numbers from on CFM's for all the fans? I work in commercial fan testing. I'm one of few that can actually measure and record actual cfm data, and I use about $8,000 in equipment to do so. I started a thread a week ago under 2nd gen ram on this topic and hoping to get the word out to everyone so they don't make a mistake. So keep in mind, I'm not stating this to rip on your install or your numbers, I'm just trying to spread the truth about electric fans, actual airflows, etc based on knowledge I've obtained working in the industry. (you may already know some of this, but for others that don't)
First off, the humidity affects the fan performance by increasing the pressure drop/resistance across the radiator/a.c. coils. By increasing the resistance, actual airflow being moved by the fan DROPS. For this reason, driving in 85 no humidity might be fine, driving in 99 with humidity might over heat your truck. Not saying it will in this instance, but just saying keep your eye on it. It's not possible to predict what this drop will be.
Second, the controller you are using. I'm not a fan of it in single fan installations. I've heard repeated references when reading reviews on this controller about minimizing the amperage draw. What I've never seen is anyone taking actual amp draws on the unit to determine how much it is helping. In all the testing I've done, the real 'spike' amp draw on a fan is from dead stop to about 50-60%. I see the controller being a wise choice for a dual fan, high amp draw system, because that spike of initial amps could become problematic, I don't see it as a necessary tool for a single fan application. I should be very honest in this, and say before I started getting serious about researching the electric fan/auto industry, I believed the amperage spike was a much bigger deal then it actually is. In my opinion, the controller is a waste of money for a single fan. If you are happy with it, it's your money/choice, knock yourself out.
3rd, the cfm numbers you are giving. Aftermarket fan manufacturers are lying about the fan performance. Feel free to skim my thread under 2nd gen for a complete description of this, but they are not regulated or neccessarily doing testing to verify perfromace. The advertised numbers, at '0' s.p., are fake, and a number impossible to duplicate in a vehicle. I will start fan testing this weekend to determine how bloated these numbers are.
I've seen the 5600 cfm number thrown around with the ford fans a lot, will be trying to find one to test as well because I don't believe it. Keep in mind, when an electric fan is installed, it is seriously affected by the radiators fin spacing and thickness. A fan can move 2000 cfm in one vehicle, be moved to another, and only move 2/3rds of that.
Finally, don't put any serious thought into the size of a fan vs what it will move. A lot more goes into fan design then surface area of the blade.
Good luck and I hope this install works for you.
First off, the humidity affects the fan performance by increasing the pressure drop/resistance across the radiator/a.c. coils. By increasing the resistance, actual airflow being moved by the fan DROPS. For this reason, driving in 85 no humidity might be fine, driving in 99 with humidity might over heat your truck. Not saying it will in this instance, but just saying keep your eye on it. It's not possible to predict what this drop will be.
Second, the controller you are using. I'm not a fan of it in single fan installations. I've heard repeated references when reading reviews on this controller about minimizing the amperage draw. What I've never seen is anyone taking actual amp draws on the unit to determine how much it is helping. In all the testing I've done, the real 'spike' amp draw on a fan is from dead stop to about 50-60%. I see the controller being a wise choice for a dual fan, high amp draw system, because that spike of initial amps could become problematic, I don't see it as a necessary tool for a single fan application. I should be very honest in this, and say before I started getting serious about researching the electric fan/auto industry, I believed the amperage spike was a much bigger deal then it actually is. In my opinion, the controller is a waste of money for a single fan. If you are happy with it, it's your money/choice, knock yourself out.
3rd, the cfm numbers you are giving. Aftermarket fan manufacturers are lying about the fan performance. Feel free to skim my thread under 2nd gen for a complete description of this, but they are not regulated or neccessarily doing testing to verify perfromace. The advertised numbers, at '0' s.p., are fake, and a number impossible to duplicate in a vehicle. I will start fan testing this weekend to determine how bloated these numbers are.
I've seen the 5600 cfm number thrown around with the ford fans a lot, will be trying to find one to test as well because I don't believe it. Keep in mind, when an electric fan is installed, it is seriously affected by the radiators fin spacing and thickness. A fan can move 2000 cfm in one vehicle, be moved to another, and only move 2/3rds of that.
Finally, don't put any serious thought into the size of a fan vs what it will move. A lot more goes into fan design then surface area of the blade.
Good luck and I hope this install works for you.
#19
06-11-2009, 07:45 PM
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#20
06-11-2009, 08:01 PM
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This is the link to my 'research' thread. Read some of the responses I've gotten from the manufacturers.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...fo-thread.html
As far as the controller, it's personal preference. If people like it, feel it's suits their purpose, then spend the $100 plus on it. I'm basing my opinion on watching amperage spikes and it's affect on the charging system in my truck. Figured out that with a single fan, under 20 amps (which can bloat to 60 as it ramps up), it really doesn't affect the system. Now if you are running a dual fan set up, where both fans are doing that, and you have a hit of say, 120 amps on the system, then I could justify the cost. Keep in mind, the research I'm doing started out by me trying to find a low dollar fan set up, new, that would pull low amps. Thought I could do it for under 100, so to spend that on a controller that isn't really necessary just didn't make sense. For the record, I literally take amp draws on fans about 10 times a day, so understand when and where the amps really peak. But, in all fairness, I haven't tested the controller so might find it to be way better then advertised.
Of course, most who are loving the controller probably is because of the advertisement, and as I've already said, the manufacturers are false advertising, so I generally discredit everything they say and go off my personal experience.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...fo-thread.html
As far as the controller, it's personal preference. If people like it, feel it's suits their purpose, then spend the $100 plus on it. I'm basing my opinion on watching amperage spikes and it's affect on the charging system in my truck. Figured out that with a single fan, under 20 amps (which can bloat to 60 as it ramps up), it really doesn't affect the system. Now if you are running a dual fan set up, where both fans are doing that, and you have a hit of say, 120 amps on the system, then I could justify the cost. Keep in mind, the research I'm doing started out by me trying to find a low dollar fan set up, new, that would pull low amps. Thought I could do it for under 100, so to spend that on a controller that isn't really necessary just didn't make sense. For the record, I literally take amp draws on fans about 10 times a day, so understand when and where the amps really peak. But, in all fairness, I haven't tested the controller so might find it to be way better then advertised.
Of course, most who are loving the controller probably is because of the advertisement, and as I've already said, the manufacturers are false advertising, so I generally discredit everything they say and go off my personal experience.