1st Gen Durango 1998 - 2003 Durango's

towing big enclosed trailers. need advice

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  #61  
Old 05-18-2010, 10:34 PM
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i believe you are both correct, but the newer models with the 16" rims will swap over to the older trucks since the bolt pattern is the same, might be a little expensive to get a set, but it CAN be done
 
  #62  
Old 05-21-2010, 12:39 AM
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Originally Posted by shrpshtr325
i believe you are both correct, but the newer models with the 16" rims will swap over to the older trucks since the bolt pattern is the same, might be a little expensive to get a set, but it CAN be done
Found a complete set of 16" OEM Durango rims on EBay for $150 from a tire store that's about 2 hours from me. Rather than shipping, I arranged to just go get them since I was going to be in the area next week anyway. Great deal to start the project with.

Found the spindles at a dismantler/recycler about an hour and a half from me - $70ea (side) for the complete spindle/caliper/hub/rotor assembly. Not like I need the extra pieces, but that's what it comes with. I'm actually going to go pick those up in the morning (he was "sending a guy to go pull the parts off the vehicle" this afternoon after I got off the phone with him. Literally... fresh picked from the field like your favorite veggies.

Kind of a waste I guess since I'm getting the rotor and calipers, but I'm going to replace the calipers with rebuilts anyway just to be sure that they are up to snuff. I haven't figured out what I want yet for pads... but I know I want cross-drilled/slotted rotors, and I'm leaning towards Baer. Anyone have an opinion? Also, since the calipers are "still installed", I'm thinking that I probably don't need the caliper bolts that Dan's write-up referenced having to order from the dealership. Oh, and I'm hoping that the backplate/splash-shield is included as well since it's the whole spindle/hub assembly I'm getting.

<fingers crossed>
 
  #63  
Old 05-21-2010, 07:45 AM
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hopefully you are correct, make sure to take lots of pictures and do a write up on it that we can have on DF for future reference instead of sending people to dan.
 
  #64  
Old 05-21-2010, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by craig_bci
Kind of a waste I guess since I'm getting the rotor and calipers, but I'm going to replace the calipers with rebuilts anyway just to be sure that they are up to snuff. I haven't figured out what I want yet for pads... but I know I want cross-drilled/slotted rotors, and I'm leaning towards Baer. Anyone have an opinion?
I prefer Duralast Gold Series pad at Auto Zone. There a mix on semi-metalic and Ceramic. They dust less than regular ceramics and are good even when hot. Good for everything like towing, city, and hills.
 
  #65  
Old 05-21-2010, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
I prefer Duralast Gold Series pad at Auto Zone. There a mix on semi-metalic and Ceramic. They dust less than regular ceramics and are good even when hot. Good for everything like towing, city, and hills.
That's fine until you want a GOOD brake pad. lol

Then go buy you some Hawk LTS or if you are towing more severe loads, get the Hawk SuperDuty pads.
 
  #66  
Old 05-22-2010, 03:09 PM
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Never tried em?


Then again, brake pads are like oil, everyone has their favorite.
 
  #67  
Old 05-24-2010, 11:00 PM
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got tranny cooler in tonight. had a little trouble with the brass fittings. some did not want to seal properly. used some teflon tape on the threads, i dont know if that was the right move or not. i may have to buy some o-rings to put inside of them if that does not work.

the tranny cooler did not have the proper fittings, so we had to match them up with adapters to get it to the correct size to screw in to the radiator.

i will check in the morning if there are any leaks. i hope not, as i dont want to get back in there again tomorrow.
 

Last edited by shortyR6; 05-24-2010 at 11:06 PM.
  #68  
Old 05-25-2010, 04:55 PM
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Should be ok. You sound like you know what your doing!
 
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Old 05-25-2010, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by hydrashocker
Should be ok. You sound like you know what your doing!
looks like i have small drip from the fitting into the radiator when it runs. i dont know if i can put a o-ring just inside the opening or not. i dont cant see if it just opens up to the tank or if there is a lip where a o-ring would sit and seal the threads.

the bad part is, that is the one fitting that you have to take off everything to get to.
 
  #70  
Old 05-25-2010, 07:57 PM
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Did the original fitting have an o-ring on it? If it did, then that is the only type that should go back in. A regular fitting will never seal considering that it is a tapered thread. An o-ring fitting is a straight type thread with a nut and a large flat washer behind the o-ring.
 


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