towing big enclosed trailers. need advice
#71
Did the original fitting have an o-ring on it? If it did, then that is the only type that should go back in. A regular fitting will never seal considering that it is a tapered thread. An o-ring fitting is a straight type thread with a nut and a large flat washer behind the o-ring.
I used a cutting wheel to take off end piece to make it fit into the adapter.
this is the fitting that is now in the radiator and the fitting in question to why it is leaking. i am thinking if i can get a o-ring in there it might stop it. we are talking about a very small leak only when the vehicle is running.
this is the fitting on the left. the same one i put in the rad.
If i had to do this again, i would have left the OEM fitting in the radiator and just cut the rubber line after the hard pipe. then run hoses accordingly.
#72
You could have just cut the OEM return line and placed a barbed nipple into it and ran a line to the aux cooler then back to the other side with a barbed nipple. Should have never touched the radiator fittings. This should have cost you 2 barbed fittings like this and 4 stainless hose clamps.
You can take that picture and the old fitting (with the flare) and the fitting to a hose and fitting shop (like EVCO) and see if you can get a replacement. That is a special fitting.
You can take that picture and the old fitting (with the flare) and the fitting to a hose and fitting shop (like EVCO) and see if you can get a replacement. That is a special fitting.
#73
The part that you cut off was a no-no. Putting an o-ring in after you cut the end flush will not help it seal. The o-ring slips over the tube end and the threaded part helps seal it to the radiator. It is very similar to an a/c line with the o-ring fittings. You should have done as Hydra posted. Now the best bet that you can do is go to a junk yard and find one, then just cut the rubber part of the hose to keep the original fitting, use the barbed type connector between that and your hose.
#74
You could have just cut the OEM return line and placed a barbed nipple into it and ran a line to the aux cooler then back to the other side with a barbed nipple. Should have never touched the radiator fittings. This should have cost you 2 barbed fittings like this and 4 stainless hose clamps.
You can take that picture and the old fitting (with the flare) and the fitting to a hose and fitting shop (like EVCO) and see if you can get a replacement. That is a special fitting.
You can take that picture and the old fitting (with the flare) and the fitting to a hose and fitting shop (like EVCO) and see if you can get a replacement. That is a special fitting.
i am going to bypass the radiator all together. so it will just go straight from tranny to cooler and back to tranny.
this is an easy fix because the hoses are right there at the bottom, so i dont have to take anything apart.
#75
thats exactly what i picked up this morning.
i am going to bypass the radiator all together. so it will just go straight from tranny to cooler and back to tranny.
this is an easy fix because the hoses are right there at the bottom, so i dont have to take anything apart.
i am going to bypass the radiator all together. so it will just go straight from tranny to cooler and back to tranny.
this is an easy fix because the hoses are right there at the bottom, so i dont have to take anything apart.
#76
I am in FL and we dont get cold here often. If i see any issues start to develop, i can always get another line to route back in radiator.
#78
Found a complete set of 16" OEM Durango rims on EBay for $150 from a tire store that's about 2 hours from me. Rather than shipping, I arranged to just go get them since I was going to be in the area next week anyway. Great deal to start the project with.
<fingers crossed>
<fingers crossed>
Project Update - 16" rims (got 'em). Even had an "oops" afterthought, what if I get a flat!? Went and found a 5th rim as well for the spare. Calipers (got em at Napa). That's it for the easy stuff.
What's been a CLUSTER so far? How about the spindles. Went to dismantler #1, they gave me an 03/04 left and a 98/02 right. Thankfully, I'd spent enough time studying the write up to recognize it and called foul. To this day they still claim that the dual piston/spindle LH and the single piston/spindle RH came off the same vehicle. Went to dismantler #2 - they assured me they had the LH 03/04 spindle. Drove two hours to get there... it was a 98/02. The first three guys argued with me that it was from an 03; the fourth guy walked by after hearing the debate, took about half a second to look at it, and said, "Yep, he's right, that's a pre-03," and then walked away. They found the right one through their network and had it shipped to me from OR. So now I just need to get some neighborly help (tools and muscle) to break the spindle/hub bolts free so that I can de-rust them, clean them, and paint them before next week.
Another cluster, though easily fixed, the rotors. I ordered Baer rotors, direct from the manufacturer, as well as the pads to go with it. They arrived a few days ago. It was like Christmas. Ran to open the box and look at the shiny new rotors... one, two, three, four, five, si... si... hey, where's the 6th lug hole!? Crap. Wrong rotors. these were for a 93/95 T-Bird or Lincoln Mark VIII. They sent me PN54007 instead of 53007. Oh well, at least it was fixed with one call and they sent me a return label and expedited the right set (supposedly - should be here in next day or two).
So all that's left is the Caliper-Spindle bolts and the brake line bolts from the dealer. It's Memorial Day, so I'll order those on Tuesday, and hopefully have this truck in the shop and put together on Friday.
#80
If I'm able to, I certainly will. Since I'm having it done in a shop (I'll do minor mechanical, but don't have the tools, experience or confidence for anything major), it'll depend on whether they'll let me back there to photograph the steps.